I agree with your thought's on shorting the frame to get front Z into cowl area. The "looks" would be better IMO.
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I agree with your thought's on shorting the frame to get front Z into cowl area. The "looks" would be better IMO.
Well thanks to you guys for helping me with my suspension, I worked my butt off today to get it done. I used the calculators from this site to figure out my angles and lengths for my control arms:
http://home.earthlink.net/~whshope/
I'm hoping for zero squat but we'll see if it works. I plan on buying tires about an inch and a half larger so I accounted for this. I thought that figuring out the angles of the brackets around the pumpkin are outside my ability and patience:D so I stole an idea from the 4x4's to build a truss around it to give me a square surface. I still have a bit of grinding to do and I'm not sure if I should put caps on the lower front of the control arm brackets yet. I probably will. Didn't seem to bind when I jacked it up, the uppers are 12" and the lowers are 22", let me know what you guys think.
That fourth picture of the axle bracket looks sloppy cause the weld comes around a joint, I plan to grind it smooth.
Sean
I also got a bunch of the interior done last night, I'm not being very sociable hanging out in my garage by myself.
I made my gas tank cover removable and underneath I built a frame that goes around the perimeter of the tank and bolts down. I used some sheeting with holes in it so it would protect the tank but not be in a container that could build up fumes. I also figured out I will be able to roll down my rear windows so I made the lower panel removable and bought some new regulators for them. Gonna make a cover for the battery as soon as I figure out how to mount zuess fasteners, I just can't seem to get any ideas:confused: . Any help with pictures would be appreciated.
Just got to brace the doors and do some patch panels and it's on to the roof, I already made some supports for that. Oh yea, I got a windsheild frame from schnieders and I cant sat I was too happy with it. Took about an hour of screwing around to make it swing out properly:mad: .
Any input is helpful, this is still my first build:D .
Sean
I also wanted to ask, do you guys weld the floor all around the seams or are the spot welds enough and then add in something like seam sealer?? I don't want to warp any of the sheeting but I guess I could just do a bit at a time.
Thanks,
Sean
Any Updates..?
Yea I guess I haven't been keeping up with this too well. I've done all the patch panels in the usual spots, just gotta tie in the firewall on the outside to clean it up. Got both doors lined up and swinging nicely, gotta try to get those screws out so I can put in my new latches. As far as the doors go the passenger side seemed to be sagging and I could shut it and lift it up to line up with the belt line. At first I thought it was flex in the hinge mount but after playing around with it for a while I realized the skin had come apart in the spot welds. I just jacked it up and tack welded the inside seam and presto lined up door.
I bought a big sheet of 20g sheet and put the roof on, hours of stitch welding there. I had to pie cut the middle and tack it down cause I didn't have a way to concave it. Now after welding and grinding I need to shrink down the seam and stretch the forward section. It kinda sucked down tight even after taking my time welding, I guess I should have been hammering the welds.
I needed a break from all the bodywork so I started the dash and almost got it done. I have a 3" speedo and tach that I have to drill holes for that will go in either side at the top. I also have to weld in three little mount tabs to hold it to the console and sides. I'm really happy with the feedback I got on that.
I did a bunch of little things like removable panels around the brake pedal and battery box. I like to have little jobs like that to do in between big jobs so it makes me feel like I made progress:D .
Got a BIG shipment from UPS today with orders from Summit and Speedway that should be the last of my engine parts. I want the bodywork and painting done before I put that together but it sure is hard to wait.
Sorry for being so long winded....
Sean
I'll just add, I think putting in a roof properly has got to be the hardest thing I've tried yet and it's still not right.
I also ordered some rims, 4.5" wide front and 10" wide rear:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
and some BF Goodrich Silvertown white walls 165r15 front and 285/70r15 for the rear.
http://store.coker.com/prod/p28570r1...whitewall.html
I also had to order some wheel adapters for the rear Ford 9" so I could get those rims to fit the back.
Thanks for asking......
Sean
I've decided to spray Lizard skin noise and heat protection throughout the car. I have my '51 Chev pick-up that I'll probably do the same so that kind of justifies buying the spray gun for it. Unless there is a cheaper gun that works??
I want to get the frame and body primed and painted this month so just a little more body work to do and that will be next. I have holidays from Aug12 to Sept 15 so I hope to maybe get the inspection done and on the road during this time. We'll see;) .
Sean
Looking good Sean. Let us know how you like the Lizard Skin, we are kicking it around for Dan's car to keep the floor cool since he won't have any carpeting.
Don
Sean, I used LS inside my 30 roadster, a light coat under the floor, and fairly thick under my running boards & fenders to hopefully prevent rock stars if that is possible. I had access to a Shultz spray gun and in my opinion (hindsight is always 20/20) using the LS gun would have worked better. I covered the LS with additional foil insulation. In a roadster it is hard to deaden sound so I mainly was hoping to eliminate as much heat transfer as possible. In your could ride I would use the foil insulation on top of the LS and put it everywhere inside and I'm sure you would be tickled pink. Keep up the good work. :3dSMILE:Quote:
Originally Posted by sgo70
Good info thanks.
Maybe I'll buy the gun, use it and then sell it to the next guy a bit cheaper, he can use it and then sell it and so on.........that way it won't be so expensive.:LOL:
Sean
Just sealed in the firewall today and had the inspector check it out:LOL: . He's good with it.
I was also wondering about what to do with all the holes around the roof, my friend told me of some type of epoxy that will fill them and is sandable. I'm also thinking about a vinyl top but what do you attatch the trim to if there is no wood???
Sean
Decided to get the roof chopped today, started at noon and got most of it done by 8PM, I'm beat. Thanks Mopar34 (Bob) for that info you gave me on how to do it it had some good points.
I decided to go 3 1/2" just in case I screwed up then I'd have a half inch to fix it:D . I only needed to do one pie cut in the rear and the pillers down low were really close so that I could line them up with one hand and tack with the other. I tacked it on once and then went around and cut it again with a thicker 1/8" cutting wheel so thing lined up really nice.
Iwas just wondering about the doors, they don't really form to the body that well so should I just weld them like they were or should I clamp them around the body before I tack them together. This would sure look a lot better but would it cause other problems. Once they're in I want to brace them to keep them from sagging.
Sean
That looks much better with the chop. Looks just right to me. As for attaching the vinyl top, I think there are wood strips that go under the slotted holes running all along the sides of the roof top, and nails go down through there. Dan is in bed, but I'll ask him tomorrow as he is planning on putting an original top on the sedan we have in the loft, and he has done research on how it goes.
I'll let you know what I find out. I like the drilled visor too.
Don
Thanks Don, I've been going over that roof with a hammer and dolley trying to get the proper arch to it as well as going over that center seam with a shrinking disc I made from an old pot lid. Works like a charm but not my idea:D . I thought about leaving the roof metal but I like the look of the vinyl.
Sean
Still working on the doors trying to get them to fit nicely, getting all the old latches and handles off and stuff. The lower sections are pretty rotten so I ordered some patch panels for them should be here tomorrow.
Got my tires mounted to the rims so I keep them in my living room to look at them every once in a while.
I didn't like my seats so I decided to make new ones. Got one almost done, just gonna add some trim and maybe a brace across the back. I used 16g so they are pretty solid. I'm still gonna put stitched leather cushions on them that will go with the interior I'm planning. I just couldn't get myself to buck another 160 rivets let alone drill another 160 holes:eek: . Maybe I'll finish them tomorrow.
Sean
Whoa, those wheels are killer, Sean. They look great with WW on them. I like the seat too, you've sure got more patience than me putting all those rivets in there. I'm planning on riveting my Dodge interior and have been drilling lots of holes too, but I took the quick route with pop rivets. You and Gastrick with his '32 interior sure are spending some time bucking rivets the right way. My hat is off to you. :) :)
Oh, the other night I remembered to ask Dan about the vinyl top thing. Yes, those rows of oval holes are for nails to go though into the interior wood in that area. It has been a while since he researched it, but thinks the top kit should contain the parts to do it.
Don
Thanks Don, I find that the buck rivets go in a lot faster than pop rivets once you get a rythm going. I just make sure everything is clamped tight and it's not as hard as ya might think. I start out slow only pulling the trigger half way and after about 10 or so ya can just open it wide up and it takes about 1 second each.
I did order some vinyl for the roof and I'm thinking of putting wood strips in unless I can find some that go in with T-nuts like Rod has from the other site. Thanks again.
Sean
Your tire/wheel package is great looking!!! The seat's look good also. I bucked thousands of rivits (two of us) on enclosed car trailers. I agree that once you get a rythm going it goes faster than pop rivits. The pop rivits make it easier in hard to reach areas.
Earl
I've been stripping rust and paint for the last couple of weeks and I haven't felt like I've been making any progress until today. I sandblasted my frame and all my chassis parts, my engine block was hot tanked, and I sanded and wire wheeled my transmission getting everything ready to paint.
I shot an etch primer on everything as it was down to the bare metal, then followed it up with some urethane fill primer and a sealer. Finally got to shoot the black on today, I used Dupont Centari like Don suggested a while back. I read a lot of horror stories about how hard it is to shoot as well as how bad it is for you, I was getting a little scared. I'm happy with the way it turned out....so far. I ran out when I was almost done, probably only need a half a cup more, oh well. I can actually see the reflection of the jackstands, I hope it stays that good.
I shot it in my garage with plastice hanging up and my door part way open wearing a respirator and fully covered up head to toe. The fumes didn't seem to bother me but when I went in a couple of hours later to take pictures it was overwhelming. Gonna take weeks to get rid of that smell.
I was thinking maybe I'll start re-assembling this week and put my engine together, I have an older friend that used to really be into hotrods that wants to help. Works for me! Just wondering how long I should let it harden before I start mesing with it.
Tomorrow I'll go buy some more and touch up a few things and let it sit for the weekend.
Sean
I was gonna ask Don, did you wetsand yours after you painted or just leave it. I do have some sections with very slight orange peel but it should be out of site.
Sean
My rear sure got fat tonight!!!
I started putting things back together today, worked about 12 hours straight, this is for sure the fun part! Got my front end all put together and realized I didn't put any anti-seize on any of my four bars. I'm gonna change the Speedway bolts for grade eights anyways so I'll have to tag it and do it then.
Attachment 32641
Mounted the M/C cause it was easy and then it was off to the rear. I went and bought about a hundred dollars worth of grade 8 bolts to do all my suspension with, it's funny how all the mock-up bolts go missing or change size:rolleyes: . I drilled holes in my coil-overs and tapped in a locking screw but I still have to tighten them down once I make an adjuster wrench. I completely rebuilt my brakes, all hardware and cylinders etc...I want new drums but the store only had one so I have to go somewhere else cause he gave me the wrong pinion seal. I hate that!!:mad: Installed new Lokar e-brake cables while I was at it also.
Attachment 32642
I've been waiting to put on my new wheels so this was the best part. I had to get some adapters cause I couldn't find the rims I wanted to fit my 9", so they sent me a Ford adapter with the Chevy lugs??? I had to cut the tops off my chrome Ford lugs to fit in the spacers. I was going to get new ones but I think they should still be okay, I'll think about that for a while. I stood back and looked at it with the new wheels and just started to giggle to myself, man is that wide, 84" in fact.
I was on a roll so I put my shiftkit in my tranny and bolted on my new extra capacity aluminum pan. Hope it works, I won't know for a while.
Today was really fun.:D
Sean
I guess I haven't been keeping up with this build thread. I got my engine completed and mounted in the car as well as the tranny. I don't have recent pics as I wrapped it up while I was doing body work. Here's before I put on all the acessaries.
Sean
Got the body blasted and started on doing all the little things that had to be finished up like chopping the windsheild and stuff. Like I said before I'm getting a 68" sliding rag-top to go in so I'm not touching the roof until I get that. I had some places that I couldn't get at to remove the rust so I coated them in POR15 and POR15 tie-coat primer then I sprayed the entire thing with epoxy primer. I used that 5star Xtreme that I had been asking about and it went on really nicely.
The first picture is the POR15 tie-coat primer.
Sean
As per the Lizard Skin rep I let that dry for 24 hours and then scuffed it up getting ready to apply the Lizard Skin sound control first. It comes really thick and is giving my 60gal 80cfm compressor a good workout. The quart container on the spray gun weighs about 10 pounds when it's full and luckily I have to hold it over my head 90% of the time:eek: .
The first coat goes on real thin while the next ones get a lot thicker. These pictures show up to a second coat. I thought it would spray kinda like paint but it's not even close. The pattern is about 2 inches wide, I'm gonna try to turn it up a bit and use more pressure for the third coat. So far what you see has only been about a third of the bucket and I still have the Ceramic bucket to do as well.....OOOHHHH MY ARMS:CRY: .
Sean
I was reminded by Steve (Stovens) that I haven't been keeping up with my build thread so I thought I should post something to show what you guys have been helping me on:
I guess next I cut and fitted the rag top I bought off Craigslist in Florida. It needed a bunch of relief cuts to form to the roof and was the first time I welded aluminum, good thing for a grinder to finish off. I also had to shorten the frame so the canvass would fit. It's 68"x 34".
Attachment 35217
Attachment 35218
Next was a lot of filler and sanding,
Attachment 35219
Added some seam sealer
Attachment 35220
And then finally primed it up and did a bunch of wetsanding
Attachment 35221
A couple more:
Attachment 35222
Attachment 35223
Then it was time for final color, I went with the Hot Rod Flatz Blood Red. I used this cause I don't know much about paint and it was pre mixed and came with a DVD. It sprayed on easily with no orange peel or anything, I kinda surprised myself and I love the look. It flattened out a bit to a satin finish a little more than shown:
Attachment 35224
Attachment 35225
Attachment 35226
All I put on so far was the door latches to keep them from swinging and getting dinged.
Back to the chassis. As some of you might know by all my questions I decided to run the brake lines. I bought all the tools and decided to go with pre made lines cause I didn't want to work with coiled up tubing and these came in 72" sections that I could cut and flare one end. I got it all done except for my flex lines to my front calipers, the '49-54' Chev calipers have a flange that point the banjo forward right to the axle:CRY:. I'm trying to find a steel AN3 male to female elbow or a 90 degree banjo before I grind the flange off. If anyone has ideas let me know.
I also made some studs for my body mounts to hold everything in place and line up the body. Has anyone ever used aluminum blocks for body mounts, I was thinking of making some on the lathe.
Attachment 35227
Sean
I started tinkering with my axle, I guess I need a new crush sleeve and pinion seal as well I think I'll get the driveshaft made this week some time.
In the mean time I picked up a '32 Wescotts front grill shell, brand new for $100, that's about $50 US. I had to trim the lower lip to get it to fit as well I need to build a shroud to mount the fan to. I might actually cut the bottom off all together and just leave a strip along the bottom to hold the shape, you can't even see it on the car so I don't really think it's worth the effort to try and keep it.
Gotta go to work today so hopefully the body will be on this week.
Sean
Looking very good! Nice work... http://www.tbucketeers.com/forum/ima...s/thumbsup.gif
Sean, Speedway sells the brake line adapter you need, got a couple of them myself last month...
Thanks 25T,
Dave is this the one I'd use instead of a banjo, mines 7/16":
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AN-90-...pter,6473.html
Sean
Yuppers, that would be the one you want Sean....If you have the good -3 AN hoses, that's it. I used same thing, but 3/8-24 to -4AN for the front of my pickup, used their stainless brake hoses, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by sgo70
Thanks again Dave!!
Sean
You betcha!
Looking great! Keeep up the good work. Love that red on the body. Looking good man. Don Jr.
Thanks a lot Don Jr. that means a lot coming from you guys.
Got my brake lines bled and leak free with a little help from some friends, went a lot easier than I thought. We'll give it some time to see if any leaks develope.
After sitting around chatting for a while we decided to put the body on. It took some thinking not having a crane but the engine host, jacks and a lot of blocking seemed to do the trick. I have to clean up a bit to get some better pics and my garage seemed to instantley double in size! I gotta clean my camera off, there's bubbles everywhere.
Sean
Looking good, Sean....
If you're in the garage cleaning mood, when you're done with yours you can come start on mine!!! Heck, I'd even furnish the coffee and buy ya lunch!!!!
Your car looks great! Now no sitting in it making those weird engine noises :LOL::D
Ken
Too late....I forgot to wait until my friends left also:o.
Thanks,
Sean
