Thread: Painless wiring

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Would anybody know whether prices for Painless wiring harnesses vary much among their retailers? Would it be worth my time to shop around?

I live near their manufacturing facility (Fort Worth, Texas) and thought maybe if I snuck over there thinking I might get a better deal that way than I might get from a retailer.

In a word, NO.

Actually, I respect them for that. They don't want to be competing with with their outlets. I'm sure they don't want to risk having a company like, for instance, Summit tell them to buzz off. Understandable.

Any suggestions?

Jim

I've never used Painless wiring but have used EZ-Wiring kits on 4 cars... My T, a buddies 37 Chevy truck, 52 ford panel, and 38 Chevy... we got them all running and working without a hitch and were done in a day and a half... Very affordable package... (note: Didn't use fusible link, used maxi-bus fuse)

I sort of remember seeing posts in various places about the Painless kits not being the easiest to install, AutoWire and Ron Francis seem to be more favored. We used a Summit wiring kit on my Son's T (I think Painless makes it) and it was a good thing we had lots of previous wiring experience, the instructions were zero help and very confusing. We had to put our heads together on a few areas to get it figured out. I've done wiring from scratch, and Dan did it for a living at one time, and we still had to guess on many parts of it.

I mention this because you may want to take a look at some other kits that are more user friendly.

Don

My earlier response was in regards to getting a price on Painless. What I didn't say was that I didn't actually buy it. I bought RF because it offered everything I wanted plus the wires were not terminated at the fuse block. Since I was rewiring a car, I wanted to be able to run selected wires and not have to worry about hiding wires that were not going to be used. RF kits allow for that, but Painless does not.

And you are right, Don, I have heard that Painless is not painless to install.

That is the exact statement I have seen posted Bob........Painless is not painless.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

That is the exact statement I have seen posted Bob........Painless is not painless.

Don

There was a post on another forum as to the quality/sizing of some of the Painless wiring gauge sizes, specifically the head lights. The wiring was too light gauge for the load. While the conductors may have been sized ok for a standard 35W sealed beam, they were marginal to too light for many of the after market halogens in the 55 and up wattages

I think that some of their retailers do give small discournts, while others follow the company line. The best price I ever got on a Painless kit was from RB's at a Goodguys's car show. Offered price was about 20% off msrp.

Most mfgr's won't discount their products due to wanting to keep their retailers happy. But the retailers have a little more leeway.

I've been looking around lately and I've heard the EZ wiring kit seems to be the best for the money. I wonder if anyone else has any comments on these. The 21 circuit is only about $165 and it has some really good instructions from what I saw.

Sean

Ive used painless (once) and e-z wire (once) both were pretty straight forward, all the wires were labeled, and had basic plans. I like the price of the e-z wire sets better, but for a novice like me, there pretty good for basics. If you want a custom wireing setup, i would take the others advice, and go with ron francis.

IMO doesn't really matter whose wiring kit you use the Halogen headlights should be wired with a relay, as well as the door lock solenoids, latch solenoids, and any other hi amperage device you may have.... Relays prevent a lot of overloads (and fire potential) on the aftermarket kits. Like a few others, I think the wiring is of too small a gauge... I like mine a bit heavier then the system requires just for a bit of added protection......

I've wired so many over the years starting with nothing but spools of wire that all the kits look like a cake walk..... I've used Painless, Ron Francis, and a bunch of the smaller companies. Painless is ok, Ron Francis is still the best IMO.

May I weigh in with a suggestion as well? Good wiring relys a lot on good terminations. ie a Gas tight metal to metal bond. The best way I have found is solder but usually impractical. Next best is AMP crimp fittings i love em. They have the two metal rings inside them one holds the copper the other clamps the insulation and the plactic on the outside wraps the whole lot up. Look closely you will see the inferior types out there. Next rule of thumb lash out and spend 50 on a mechanical/ratcheting crimping tool don't just use those old plier types. Remember gas tight metal to metal bond!

Andy
my2c

ps AMP is amphenol

I bought a book by Overholtzer of Painless and he says to use EITHER solder or crimping. I would like to crimp connectors and then sweat solder into the crimp, Overholtzer says this makes the end of the wire brittle. Comments?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Britleness is definately an issue so is gas inclusion, but seeing that you will not be taking your rod to 30000ft I think we can forget inclusions. I personally would not solder over an AMP crimp. these connectors are excellent and are used in many aircraft with no problems. Just use the right tool.
ps I love solder and heat shrink. A well prepared and fastened solder joint is a very nice thing to see in a harness. Not like the large knots of connectors. If we want pretty try wax string lacing as well....

Andy

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

I bought a book by Overholtzer of Painless and he says to use EITHER solder or crimping. I would like to crimp connectors and then sweat solder into the crimp, Overholtzer says this makes the end of the wire brittle. Comments?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I did just that when I wired the relays for my fuel pump and 12v MSD signal. lots of wiring and no problems.

Interesting thread here...and appropriate since I'm installing Painless in our EC.

Love the wiring with the number and i.d., but maybe all of the suppliers spoken of do that.

The problem that I'm having is with the 2 speed wipers and park setting. And from my last thread the neutral/park transmission thing. PW offers no ideas in the instructions and the forum seems silent on this issue. Oh well, its electricity!

But one thing that I've read alot about is not soldering connections.

Itoldyouso what made Ron Francis the go to product? I know that my next project will need wiring and I'd love to get a better kit!

Thanks again!