My doors are kind of flimsy and need a bit of contouring, I'm sure I could figure this out but I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of how they braced their doors without interfering with the windows etc...
Thanks,
Sean
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My doors are kind of flimsy and need a bit of contouring, I'm sure I could figure this out but I was wondering if anyone had any pictures of how they braced their doors without interfering with the windows etc...
Thanks,
Sean
Sean my doors are solid feeling and i cant seem to understand what you are meaning .
The lower half seems to be kind of flimsy. It holds it's shape but it looks like it could use some support. Maybe once I get the interior panel on it will feel a little better. I've seen pictures where guys have added in some bracing, thought it might be a good idea, but then it might not be necessary.
Sean
the inner bracing is still welded in right . Do you mean like the skin and frame move somewhat .
Yes I still have the one brace down the center and yes it seems like it's moving but I have re-tack welded the skin and I don't seem to be missing anything. I'll take another look it just seems like the door off my Model T was a lot sturdier. Come to think of it though it actually had a lower skin on the inside.
Sean
Sean - before I started my roadster, I was doing a '31 slant windshied Fordor. The doors on that car were absolutely solid steel. The roadster is a Brookville and the doors were flimsy until I welded the skin to the inner panel. Afterwards they now seem as solid as any roadster can feel
Allright, I guess I'll just make sure it's welded around the skin and mount them up.
I got the drivers side working good but those hinge bolts are impossible to get off, they've been soaking for 4 weeks now AND I used the torch!
Thanks,
Sean
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
You've sure run into some interesting stuff with your Brookville.
My 31 Brookville roadster doors are pretty solid.
I went out to look at them and they have tack welds from folded over skin to interior panel at the upper left and right.
No movement detected and they are nice and solid when shutting them.
I reember that you sanded most of your paint off.
A while back I was pinstriping the trunk lid - the body is still in factory primer - and the wind blew a paint laden magazine page onto the trunk lid.
I got it off and a few days later when I moved the 1000# scale back I saw where the errant page had slapped white paint onto the area below trunk lid between the taillights.
The white paint - One Shot - came off ok with lacquer thinner, but the thinner didn't seem to phase the primer.
If I remember right didn't the primer in sander-inaccessible areas on your car come right off with lacquer thinner and a rag?
C9,Quote:
Originally Posted by C9x
I keep saying that if there was a planned screw up that could have happened by Brookville, they practiced it on my '31.
The door skins were so loose that they couldn't be aligned and stay that way so I aligned, clamped then tacked, though did not weld solid.
Every reachable rivet was either welded in place or removed then the hole plug welded as every dammed one of them had not been bucked solid.
Then their bolts were either replaced by a Gr5 or at a minimum, had a lockwasher added as there were none - anywhere.
The primer - Western Acrylic brand - I sanded most of it off and then did the cheapie lacquer thinner around the raised detail. Also, did a sand blast at the firewall to cowl interface. Brookville via an email recommended that I remove all of the primer before painting - it covered a multitude of sins and was extremely thick - up to a guestimate of .060 - this is a photo of much of what came off the outside of the well punctured dash.