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Well since assembly is required, I'm looking for what sealants to use for the following:
1) Intake manifold to engine
2)Timing chain housing to engine
3)water pump to timing chain housing
4) oil pan
Thanks. I've got a ton of sealants so hopefully one will work!
There are a lot of different opinions, but this is what I would do.
1) I would run a small bead of silicone on the ends and trash the gaskets that come with the kit be they cork or rubber.
2) I use the gasket supplied with a thin coat of #2 Form-A-Gasket.
3) Same as number 2.
4) The trick here IMHO is to make sure the bolt holes in the pan are flat, the surfaces are clean and using the gasket supplied tighten the bolts in a sequence from side to side to side. Once everything is snug you can torque the bolts to manufacturers specs in sequence.
Thanks NTFDAY
I've heard afew people recogment not using the end gaskets. Is the silicone good enough to withstand any pressure, or should I use the gasgets with the silicone on them?(for the ends of the intake)
I tend to shy away from silicone,it was wonderfull stuff 20 years ago but I've seen it cause more leaks than seal them especially on intake ends.
I would suggest Permatex "The Right Stuff" Comes in a cheese wiz can or a small caulk gun tube.. it's a little pricey but worth it. for things such as timing cover gaskets I squeeze some on my finger and spread it very thin.
Do yourself a huge favor and get a 1-piece pan gasket if you don't already have one. Check the holes in the gasket with the bolts that you will use to make sure the gasket holes are the correct size. Some Ford Motorsport gaskets have been found with holes that are too small. Here's a link to the Milodon gasket. (everything I've ever bought from Milodon was first-class).
http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/41005/10002/-1
I've had good results with the following:
permatex ultra blue...small dab at the corners of the intake and pan gaskets.
super thin coat on valve cover gaskets, both sides. Also timing chain cover.
Last couple sbc s I built leaked oil past the intake manifold bolts. So, I put a thin bead around the top of the intake bolts, and wipe away any which squishes out. Thin coat top and bottom for Tstat housing.
Never put any silicone on the rubbers at the front and rear of the pan. Can cause the rubbers to squish out of position during assembly. BUT.. always a dab at their corners.
I have also had very good luck with a thin coat of ultra copper on head gaskets.
I tried the 'right stuff' in the aresol can, as a form-a-gasket application. It was on the primary of my Indian.. and the result was miserable.
I never use the end gaskets and yes silicone can leak if it's not applied right and the surfaces aren't clean. A small bead, approx. 1/4" wide and 1/4" high will do the trick. I use spray brake parts cleaner to clean the surfaces as it doesn't leave any residue.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
race engine builder with many years engine building exp told me the same as above : trash the intake manifold gasket and use RTV. I just assembled two days ago. Not able to run engine yet. I do suggest you dry fit parts first check all bolts holes to make sure bolts go in easy. You do not want to find you need to clean out a bolt hole when your adhesive is on the clock! Also, if using roller rockers, check to make sure the valve covers. I have to do this. Not sure how short of starting up and crossing fingers.
Yesterday I started to mount the timing chain cover. I had spent most of the day running down parts, like a dipstick tube and water pump backing plate, which sent me north and online. It was later in the afternoon when I got started. My patience level was a bit low, and my blood sugar! I put ultra blue sealant on the cover, the the gasket, and then another layer of ultra blue. As I started pushing the housing over the crank shaft, I noticed the new seal that came with the Dorman timing cover had a tear in the rubber. So I quickly pulled everything off and removed the seal. I went to my felpro seals box that came with the engine, only to find the seal in the stock kit has no flange on the end, because the stock cover has a recess built into the seal housing that the seal pushes up to, to hold it in place. The new cover has no recess, and thus needs a flange on the front seal itself to keep it from coming out. So I ran to Napa really quick only to find they have no idea what seal Dorman used, because none of the replacement ones they sell for a 460 have this flange. I finally found Dormans number, only to find them closed for the day. I called them today, and was told they don't sell the seals separately, only with a new cover. I pointed out the problem with that, and asked if someone in their technical dept. could find out what seal they are using so I could order one. What a waste of time and money. Meanwhile I now get to buy new housing gasket too. I knew there must be a reason why the Dorman kit was so cheap compared to the Summit brand housing.
Cheap sometimes does that unfortunetly;(
Yep!
I guess I'll be invsting in the Summit one,which is an exact casting and uses the stock seal. I did get a hold of the tech guy at Dorman, but he said he's have to call me back with what seal they use.