And then in just a short time, went from this
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And then in just a short time, went from this
To this--------Grind, sand, scrape, fill extra holes in frame, etc.! Then two coats of brushed on Rust-O-Leum Primer, then two coats of spray can Rust-O-Leum Hammered Silver. :)
Your making some great progress!
Here is a pic of the floor support grid and pictures of the dash area without dash. And pics of the dash and upper ?? dash and instrument panel, what's left of it. I may refurbish this, or rebuild it, who knows? Man, am I having a blast or what? Thankfully the body (front and back) is in pretty good shape. Going to need some patching, but not as bad as some I've seen on here. Ahhemmm, well, the doors leave something to be desired! haahaa
Driver door is correct but holey, pass door is not right year (and holier) :LOL:
Nights are getting loooonnnngger here now, so more time for computing! So I may get caught up with posts and pics. I trust everyone is enjoying the photos. I've got hundreds, literally. Funny though, I can't find me in any of them! :p Perley
Here I've cut the temporary tabs off the body that the doors were welded on with (for spacing). The hinges are sooooo rusty that I haven't been able to get them free/working yet. :(
And shots of it going back together, most everything painted. This is the basic brake kit I bought from Speedway. It has the brackets for the disc calipers along with bolts, a machined slide on increaser to build up the spindles to fit the new bearings and seals that will be in the hubs/rotors, and a spacer to go on the end of the spindle before the castle nut goes on, as the spindle is slightly too long for these hubs. The hubs are from/for a mid-size - mid-seventies GM, like Camaro/elcamino/monte carlo, etc. I bought the hubs/rotors and bearings and seals from our local Advance Auto Parts store because my oldest Grandson works there. Support his job, you know (and doesn't hurt that I get his discount)! haahaaaa :)
The calipers I got later on also from Advance. They were for '76 Camaro as were the hubs. Much later on I got brake hoses for them, but the stock Camaro hoses were too short to reach the frame/brackett, so the manager at local Parts Plus helped me out by picking through computer pictures and descriptions. These were for a '75-78 Chevy K10 Pickup truck. They had square blocks on them rather than round to match the rotors, so I have to mill off the corners a little to fit. Length is perfect, 19" O.A.! Speedway has complete kits for this conversion but got to cut every corner and save dollars where I can. S.S. doesn't pay very good! :rolleyes:
These are engineered by C.P.P. and are well thought out. My axle remember was from a '49 Ford F1 Pickup and originally had drum brakes. I would have rather had them renewed, but cost of parts etc. would have been awful close to what the disc kit cost. :D
And shots of the rear brakes etc. The brake parts I bought off eBay a couple of years ago for our '47 Ford/S-10 project. :whacked:
Well --------------- they were just sitting there! :LOL:
This had new backing plates, new drums, new shoes, new springs, and some used parts. While I was at it I pulled the old seals and outer axle bearings and replaced them with new. I cleaned out the axle tube by pulling a rag through on the end of a coat hanger, cleaned out the banjo too. Both front and rear axles were sand blasted before hand. UGH. Hated doing that. :CRY: Tip-------Don't move the pinion input shaft while the axles and keepers are out of the rear end! heeeheeee. :rolleyes: Ask me how I know. Man, I was an hour getting it back together right. Them spider gears got all out of sync. heeheeee. I'm learning! Remember, I NEVER make mistakes. But when I DO, they're doooozies! :o
This car is a Johnny Cash car -------- It's a '29, 30, 49, 65, 69, 72, 76, 85, 91 automobile! And yeah, quite often the holes are gone! haahaaaa :eek:
But fun! And quite a challenge, believe me!
So, here are pics of the new front rotor hub combo on #13 and #2 bearing sets and seal on the adaptor for the inner bearing from the C.P.P. kit. Calipers will come along later. New tie rod ends on the old tie rod. I took measurements of the old set-up so I can get close on toe adjustment hopefully. And a shot of the flywheel and pressure plate, the starter I got off ebay and had rebuilt, and a shot of the inside of the bell housing showing the clutch release lever and throwout (release) bearing. I've had the devil's own time getting all of the necessary parts to fit this wide array of vintage parts together! Hours on the Internet tracking down information and such. **) Sometimes I had to tell the parts store what part number(s) I needed because they didn't list them due to being obsolete. :p And another big thank you to my Mentor in Florida for all of the help via email. Perley
Lookin good. Isn't it fun to try and keep track of all the different stuff we put on our old rods!:D
Gets to be even more fun when you have 3 or 4 projects going at the same time!!!!!!!:eek::eek::eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Especially playing with that chebbie! My disc brake front conversion kit is one part Ford one part Chevy!
Hi Dave and yes, I have actually a second one, a '47 Ford pickup that is sitting on a Chevy S-10 frame and has a 350 SBC from my old work van ('89-90)! It has just sat there for two years while I've been playing with my Essex. Sometimes I get confused as to what part is for what project!!!!! :HMMM:
And Steve, thanks for the support. Yes, it is a nightmare of sorts trying to keep track of things. I had to start a notebook with information in it on the build. All of the part numbers, from what years, even some pictures! :)
But I supose that this too is a good part of what makes it all fun. Gives me something to do when I can't be out in the garage! :D
Here is a shot of the '47 project -------- and a -- WHAT? :rolleyes: A RARE photo of Your's Truly! haahaaaaa. Enjoy :)
The hinges are sooooo rusty that I haven't been able to get them free/working yet.
I have 38 and 40 chev pickup cabs that had the same issue. One of the doors was rusted open and so I sprayed some Fluid Film on it when I was out to where they are stored. It was about 2 weeks later before I got back out there and the door was swinging freely.
Thank you for that tip, Pastor Bubba. But what is fluid film, I am not acquainted with that? I haven't tried anything on them yet, just tried to manhandle them! :LOL:
It is a rust and corrosion preventive and I just came upon it about 3 months or so ago, but have been impressed with what it does. Their website is www.fluid-film.com.
Here I am getting the engine ready for paint. I was going to leave it Chevy Red, but my Friend Jim suggested that black would be better in that it wouldn't show oil spills (UGH) :CRY: So then I was torn between doing what was right and doing what was quick (and easy)! heeeheee :LOL:
In the end I figured I better do the right thing, so degreaser (6 cans), scrape and dig, dish detergent spray, and lots of water. Then wire brush, more scraping, more digging, more, more and finally ready. I used the air to blow it off then rattle can spray Hammered Black R.OL. heeeheee. :D
Perley
And more! Plus a shot of the rear brake assembly. WHY? I dunno, just cuz it was there! :LOL:
I hope all of these pictures aren't getting people down. If there are too many let me know and I'll make it more brief. I don't want to bore you all but I am trying to show all of the steps involved in this 'from the ground up build'. Just hoping it helps the next guy along by showing what I've done! :)
And the engine, bell housing, transmission all together.
BUT then of course if you want MORE pictures, I've gottem!!!! :eek:
Here is the engine combo sitting back in the chassis. The oil pan isn't done yet but it will be soon. Just needed to get the engine mounted so I could get under it and all. Then took it off, went through the same cleaning process, then paint. Then new gasket set, cleaned surfaces etc. then bolted pan back on. And a shot of the drop-out transmission crossmember and mount. Enjoy. :3dSMILE:
Remember in post #116 I told about the shock angle and the steering difugalty? How the steering arm hit the shock? :whacked: And then too the mount was tipped back a little in relation to the grille shell, (which I didn't show or tell you about) :o heeheee. Well, I cut them off the frame and trimmed the angle some, then welded them back on (straighter) and then bored new holes for the shocks up higher for a steeper shok angle. Then just bored out the lower (original) holes bigger to make for some visual interest ;) So that made for some clearance with steering arm, although with the ball stud and mating end on the drag link, I found it still not clearing in a hard left turn. Solution, NO HARD LEFT TURNS! :cool: :D
Here I am fixing to shorten my own driveshaft :eek:* I didn't think I could do it, but my Mentor insisted that I could!* :(* So give it a go.* I figured the worst would be that I'd have to buy a whole new one!* :p* First I drew a straight line on the shaft from the front yoke to the opposing rear yoke, for whatever reason!* :toocool:* heehee.* Something about angle of the dangle, or vibration or lack of it, OR ------;)* And then I made a line on shaft that was representative of where the lower balance weight was and where it needed to be after section cut off.* Then I took a grinder with a cut-off wheel and cut (somewhat carefully) ;) around the end of the shaft where the end was attached (?) hopefully!* Then after some tinkering I got the old end off.* Then ----- oh yeah, first I measured REAL careful so I would know how much to cut off, heeheeee.* Then put shaft on my chop saw and CUT it.* uhhhhh, hope it's right!* :LOL:* Then dressed the cut up, filed up the end piece, and pounded it in to the cut end.* whooooeeeee.* Fun or WHAT?* **)
looks great! I went with black too for the same reasons!
Anybody here besides Steve and Me? Hallllooooooooo!
I'm here enjoying your build.
So----------I couldn't find rear shocks that were short enough to go in the coils and still have length to compress and expand enough for the rear end movement. So following Brian's lead (from his RPU build) I determined to make towers on top of the upper mount to extend the shocks. Seeing as how I now had a 12 inch piece of my driveshaft tube available, and it looking to be a nice size for it, I cut off two sections to make the towers. :cool:
Then I had to drill a hole down thru the upper mount plate with a hole saw. WOW, the waste piece from this operation was perfect to use as a cap for the riser! :p Then I found a couple of pieces of flat stock about a quarter inch thick, bored holes in both of them (same hole saw), voila! Perfect. Then I drilled some holes around (4) and tapped the ones in the upper mount plate to accept bolts. I figured if need be, I could unbolt these 'hats' and remove the shocks without having to lift the body clear of the axle. ugh. So, there ya have it. Simple, like me! :D
Just a short while ago I told you I had the driveshaft cut and fitted back together! :) So here is a picture of the end all welded up. Of course I had to buy two universal joints so I could assemble it in place. Then in order to make it concentric I put a block on the floor next to the cut end, then laid a straitedge on the block and pushed up against the shaft. Then I turned the shaft slowly a couple of revolutions. This was with the axle sitting up on jacks mind you! This showed a slight misalignment. So I gave it a whack with a hand maul, then turned it again a couple of revs. Again I tapped it. After two or three tries I got it to turn true with the straightedge. So then I tack welded it on opposite sides, then turned it again. It was still true so I tacked it in two more places. Again I turned the shaft, and still it was true. So then I completely welded the joint. Hoooorrrraaayy! You were right Jim. Piece of Cake! haahaaa:LOL::LOL: Then I made up two driveshaft safety loops, attached them to two pieces of 1 inch square tube and welded these assemblies in place. Then I borrowed a slide hammer puller from a friend and pulled out the old axle bearings and seals. Then with a seating tool, borrowed from same friend, I inserted the new bearings and seals. Then with the brakes all done, put on the new drums and then the wheels. These wheels came on an old S-10 truck I bought, they are American Racing 15 x 7. The tires are old and worn, and I will have to scrounge up some better ones later on, but won't worry about that now. Got plenty of more immediate needs. Actually I jump around a lot. I work at something until I need a part, then jump on to something else. Then when I am able to buy the part, I jump back to that----------:p;) Perley
Here are the new axle bearings and seals and the seating tool I borrowed to put them in with. Slick! :)
Here is the wheel. :p:)
I'm still here, Perley. I'll bet there are plenty of others out here who are watching, too. They're just being quiet...;)Quote:
Originally Posted by oldrodder43
The frame was looking so nice it was lamost a shame to put a body on it. keep up the good work.
I've quietly watched since the beginning. Looks like a fun build.
AHHHHHHHHHHHH. There is life out there. :LOL::LOL:
Thanks all for chiming in. Spent last two days on Honey-Doo list. heeheee:rolleyes: Got a tarp-hut up for a garage for Mommie's car. ;)
AND, got a new roof (or partial roof) on the garage, thanks to my Grandson Steve and his friends. I took a long strip of leftover tarp and folded it multiple times and duct taped it, then hauled it on over the peak, hopefully this will prevent the chafing that has worn out the top of my last to roofs! :(
Then I put on a 24' by 40' tarp that I've had for a while, added ropes on the sides to hold it so it won't flop around in the wind so much, and stapled the ends to the wood. Soon I will get a bundle of banking lathes and fasten the end down proper. Old winter winds really howl up here, especially when we get a Northeaster storm. Later on I am going to get a full cover to pull on over the whole garage, and then nail it down all around. WHEW. Now I can put away my rain catchers! :):)
Next project was splitting the exhaust manifold. I had read a lot of posts where folks said a real GOOD sound could be had with a straight six by splitting the manifod and adding a second outlet giving dual exhaust and add two glass packs! Soooooooooo, fool that I am, here it is. And with a lot of help (emails) from my Mentor, I cut a slot up into the bottom of the manifold and machined a 1/4" thick piece of steel to fit up into the manifold. Thus blocking off three of the six ports. I then bought some high nickel content stick rod and 'tried' welding in the partition and closing the slot. :mad::CRY:
What a horror scene that was. It made an UGLY mess. Oh Dear, what have I done? :CRY: I was near ready to toss the whole thing and find another manifold, then forget the idea of splitting it. Then I called an old friend who does a lot of welding, he also went to welding school in the Navy. I discussed the mess with him and told him what I was using for rod. He said he preferred a different kind of rod and told me where to get it. So I bought a pound of that and went to his shop with the manifold (which I was sure was ruined) and the rod. He didn't blink an eye. Stuck a rod in the stick welder and proceeded to weld the whole mess, partition and slot. I watched him through another hood. Sure looked easy the way he did it. WOW, was I relieved! :D So then I went home and proceeded to add the second exhaust outlet.
And more------:)
And a mock up of the new piece. Previous post showed that I cut the middle collector (for two ports) from a leftover SBC manifold. The cleaned out the web between the two ports. Here is a shot of it cleaned up inside and out. Then I took a piece of 1/4" flat stock and made a flange to weld on the bottom. This matched the factory one on the original outlet. :)
Finishing the flange and welded on to the new outlet. Then outlet welded on to manifold. I did all of this myself. After watching my Friend weld the slot closed, I determined to try this myself. Came out pretty good, even if I do say so! :p:LOL:
And painted up along with mating intake. This is heat proof ?? manifold paint. :LOL: And bolted on engine for look-see. Wow, I like it. :D
Looks good Perley.
"Then I called an old friend who does a lot of welding, he also went to welding school in the Navy. I discussed the mess with him and told him what I was using for rod. He said he preferred a different kind of rod and told me where to get it."
What kind of rod did you end up using?
Hi Restorod. The rod I got first was NI 55 by Firepower, 3 rods for $7.00. It was awful! :eek:
The second try was with Noma-Cast 1/8", 1# for $13.00 and it worked great. Here is a link that tells about it. http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com...ods-200039.asp :)
There is an awful lot of information on welding cast iron on the internet, some on the forums. The Friend took a small bernz-o-matic torch and preheated the area he welded a little. Not a great deal. But I didn't preheat mine at all. It may fall apart first time I fire it up, but it seemed to work well, and the weld looked pretty good. That nickel rod seemed to eat the cast iron, I swear. It made an awful mess. This patch was done by my Friend just as a test. You can see how bad it was. Perley :)
Whoops, something wrong with that URL. Try again. http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com...ds-200039.aspx
Thanks Perley, good info. I've never had much luck welding cast.....this may be the answer.