Measured it again, and again, and again!!!

Well I'm finally starting to see some light in the tunnel.
I'm not near the end yet, but it's good to have some light
to work by if you know what I mean.
Gonna set the engine and trany in the new frame to get
the mounts in position were they need to be.
Spent the last day and a half measuring it over and over
again, making sure everything is right.
Got everything marked to put the new front end in and
marked the place's were the support bar goes acrossed
to hook the top of the coil overs springs to for the rear
end. Then after that comes the master cylinder and
getting it posittioned under the driver seat.
I think that's enough to keep me busy the next couple
of days. Kurt

Should be Kurt.... sounds like you're making some good progress.... Health must be improving some????

Ya Dave; I'm feeling ok still get short breathed.
The weather has been mild here lately, so the RA ain't messin with me either.
Got a bunch of the steel measured and cut, then me last stainless steel chopsaw blade
broke or split. I actully got alot of use out of that blade, cut all the steel for my burgler bars on my house with it a while back. The only reason it broke, is because it's sunday
and the welding shop I get the blade's from is closed.
My neighbor came over and wanted me to make him a spacer out of a 2X6.
Would have been so easy if it was a 4V, but it's some hopped up fuel injection intake
with 8 - 1 5/8 hole's one other hole in the middle of those, then all the bolt holes to bolt it down. It goes in between a the upper and lower piece's of the intake.
Came out real nice, had to be careful the ports are real close together.
Only about a 1/8 in. in between the ports, So I kept busy anyway. Kurt

Hey Guy's; Anyone know if there is a standard thickness on the rod end for the 4 link rear ends. Want to start fabricating the plates to go on the frame and rear end. If anyone know's the thickness please give me a shout back.
Thanks Kurt


http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/att...1&d=1227483319

I use 3/4" heims.... When I want to go really fast, I use moly tubing with threaded bung inserts welded in to the 1 1/8" .083 wall moly.... For just fast, I use 1", .156 wall DOM tubing then tap with a 3/4" LH on one end and a 3/4" RH tap on the tubing....much easier to make bar length adjustments with a right and left heim on the ends of each tube.... Use some high quality jam nuts on the heims, too......

Sorry; I'm not clear I wanted to know how far apart to put the plates so the rod ends
fit's snug in between them. thanks Dave. Kurt

Depends on which rod ends you're using, Kurt. I usually measure the width of the rod end, then make a couple of sleeves the same width out of tubing and use them as spacers to locate the brackets.... With heim joints, I fit the brackets just snug on the joint, with the poly ends, I like about .020 clearance between the poly bushing and the bracket.....just .020" total, not .020 on either side of it.... I like to keep the poly ones a bit loose to allow the rear end to move laterally a bit when cornering and not put a lot of stress on the rod end.....Heims can be tight as by design they will allow lateral movement and not stress the joint.....