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I've been told that I should box the frame on my '67 Volvo P1800S. I know what that usually means (welding in a top piece to make the C-channel frame a box frame), but I've been told something else. The person that recommended doing this said to do that, as well as welding on new pieces on both sides and the bottom. My question is if that is actually necessary if the existing frame isn't rusted out. Thanks for the help.
Should work with just the normal boxing. Might want to add a gusset or two wherever the crossmembers and critical suspension brackets and other such things go... Not familiar at all with the car you're doing, a pic of the frame would help a lot.....
Do you need to? No
Will it add strength and rigidity? Yes
What do you need? You decide
thanks a ton, I'm gonna be taking some pictures of the car today, I'll try and get some decent shots of the frame, the frame is still all coated in the damn undercoating, but at least you can get an idea of what it looks like
Just finishing measuring all the frame rails and taking some pics. The existing frame is 1/8" thick, should I use 3/16" to do the boxing like it seems most people are using?
I wouldn't use anything that heavy, 10ga. would be fine. It's not the thickness of the plate, it's just the fact that it's boxed. No reason to use anything heavier then the original frame material...
Some pics...hope these help some, I haven't cleaned up the frame yet, but of course that is in order
true, the floor was very thin and rusted out in places, which is initially why I pulled it out, then I found that certain parts of the frame were rusted through (you can see some of my cuts in one of the pictures). also, the floor was not very thick which is why I was wondering how thick the boxing should be. I think the route that I'll take now is to just box the frame (top, sides, and bottom) for re-inforcement, then weld in the new floor pan. I'm kind of dumbfounded that you had to point that out to me actually. I've thought for so long on this frame ordeal, I guess I just got overwhelmed. Oh well, soon all will be better though.
I would just repair the bad sections and then do the top (to complete the box) Doing the bottom and sides with an extra layer is redundant.Quote:
Originally Posted by SamRogers86
What are your plans for the car? If you are not going to put in a monster engine, just do the front part (engine mounting areas), maybe in the rear where the rear end mounts.
The specs for the original motor are between 96HP and 100HP at the crank, I estimated today that the weight for the car would drop from 2500lbs (original weight) to 1750lbs (estimated weight now) and with a motor with close to 400HP (anywhere between 370 and 400) at the wheels, I assumed that I should re-inforce the frame. At this point, I may as well box the frame, as well as re-inforce it just to provide addition support.
Please don't tell us you are going to put a sbc in that lovely car!
haha no sir, I was originally going to put a race-ready volvo motor in it from the same era, but scrapped the idea (yes, I sold out) or a 2.3L turbo motor from the late 80's mustangs and thunderbird turbo coupes. Here's a link to somebody else that did one:
http://www.robidaconcepts.com/page/page/1918175.htm
Now that I can handle!!. I know the old (B16?) isn't going to snap anyones neck. I love the 1800s. A good friend has one in Texas and I have know a couple people with the ES. Story goes that whn USA mandated the 5 mph bumpers Volvo told them they wouldn't make the car ugly so they could sell it to us.Quote:
Originally Posted by SamRogers86
It's not uncommon to put a volvo head on that motor as a performance upgrade.