Electrical?

I have a GM steering column probably a '80's unit. The ignitionswitch has always been a bit loose ie wiggles a bit forward and back. I took my car out on Friday, it was a bit cold out so I flipped on the heater...no heater blower...I then noticed that my elec fan hadn't kicked on either, temp had just reached 180*. I wasn't far from home so turned around and came back home.

checked the fuse block ... no blown fuses....Stumped me


Today after church I went into the garage and turned the engine over...wiggled the key and lo and behold the heater blower started up...wiggled the key again and it stopped...wiggled it again and the blower started again. Turned the car off as I didn't have time to explore it any further due to a family function(birthday party for my 93 yr old mother-in-law:) ). This evening I went back out and tried it again...now no matter how much I wiggle the key I have no heater blower or elec. fan.

Any ideas on what to check or why just those two components aren't working...all my other electricals are working, headlights, tailights, hi/lo beams. park lights, turnsignals, engine starts...just no heat/AC blower or engine electrical fan.

Ignition switch seems likely culprit to me...but I don't understand why just those two components only are not working....Please help this dummy figure it out.:)

Check the adjustment on the switch, sounds like it might have moved and the rod from the key is a bit out of whack...

Dave, Ok ...can you explain to me how I make that adjustment...'cuz I do not know how if it is explained to me I can usually get through it.
The only ignition switch related problems I've ever dealt with were separate ignition switches or ignition/start button.

The switch is further down on the column and has slotted adjustment deals on it..Is your column a tilt and loose?? Because this can cause the same kind of problems in a major way...

yes it is a tilt column but is not loose

From G.R.: "Any ideas on what to check or why just those two components aren't working...all my other electricals are working, headlights, tailights, hi/lo beams. park lights, turnsignals, engine starts...just no heat/AC blower or engine electrical fan."

Everything you listed other than the Heat/AC is on a different segment on your switch. If you have a radio in your car that is wired to turn on when you run the car, it will likely act the same way as the heat/ac function as it is wired to the accessories side of the ignition switch. So yes, suspecting the switch was a good call on your part. The bad part is that your radiator fans are also wired to the same circuit and thus the overheat problem.

While it can be an adjustment problem, it can even be more suspect that it is going bad by making contact only part of the time. I rationalize this because I suspect the amperage draw to run your A/C and the Rad fans may be causing the switch failure. I typically like to see the Rad fans run via a relay which lowers the amperage at the switch which in turn provides a longer life.

Jerome

Using a relay is imparitive on the cooling fans but it sounds like your problem is going to be the switch itself..It's going to be located about half way down the column and retained by two screws with two gangs of wires plugged into it.The dimmer switch will share one of the screws.Have you checked to see if the blowers run with the key in the acc position?? Some folks wire them that way to avoid engine run-on when you shut the engine off(relay fixes that too)

Engine fan is wired through a relay as is the Heat/Ac blower --I found the relay just above the heater box...marked relay. Stereo and amp don't work on ACC nor do the heater /Ac blower and engine fan ---they may not be wired to the acc side?. I did not wire this car so it is like trial and error troubleshooting a electrical problem. Some wiring to the fuse block is labeled ie, lights, turn signals, etc, some isn't stereo/amp, interior/courtesy lights, heat/AC, engine fan.
i suppose I could just replace the ignition switch but I wonder if there isn't another problem?

Make sure and get a switch for the tilt column..all years are the same but the non tilt uses a reversed switch...

Glad you have relays in there.

You have narrowed your problem to the switch but it still could be an adjustment problem or the switch going bad all together. Daffy and Dave have given some good advice here about tilt wheel switch servicing and adjustment. Now it's time to get in there and do the work on the column. You are doing a good job of being our "eyes" and describing what you see to us so that we can help diagnose the problem. Have you tried losening up the column switch adjustment screws and moving the switch assembly back and forth some to see if the problem improves or gets worse?

Jerome

Another possibility, check for voltage into the relays. If you have voltage there you could have a bad relay. If no voltage you're back to the switch.

Ceh: I thought that too but on the original post G.R. said that when he wiggled the switch it either worked or didn't work. Which leads me to the switch rather than the relays as usually (and I did say usually) a relay just stays bad rather than intermittent like how G.R. described.

Yes it is/was intermitent when wigging the switch. checked the relays... no voltage

Before I get a new switch how do I "adjust" the existing one to check it? I reallay do not want to re-assemble then have to take it all apart again.

Then again if it is iffy maybe a new switch is the way to go---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by G.R.

Yes it is/was intermitent when wigging the switch. checked the relays... no voltage

Before I get a new switch how do I "adjust" the existing one to check it? I reallay do not want to re-assemble then have to take it all apart again.

Then again if it is iffy maybe a new switch is the way to go---

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Just crack the screws loose and pull it towards the steering wheel end of the column a little and tighten it up..I'm betting the switch is bad...

If the key cylinder is loose it could very easily be causing the problem he is experiencing.