body filler question

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05-16-2009, 04:55 PM
atichargr

body filler question

What is a good strong body filler? I am about to fit my new roof to my 29 and finish the body work, I want a good filler that isn't going to crack or chip away... as I am working on the roof of the car there are 3 different fillers... a grey , a yellow, and a green.... any suggestions would be appriciated

thanks,
simon
05-17-2009, 05:07 AM
ohekk

Weld the joints then LEAD

"Strong body filler" is an oxymoron
05-17-2009, 05:19 AM
Dave Severson

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohekk

Weld the joints then LEAD

"Strong body filler" is an oxymoron

Lead??? Unless you have some rat holed from years ago, it's unavailable. Was outlawed by the feds years ago. The new body fillers are plenty strong when used properly....
05-17-2009, 05:24 AM
pat mccarthy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Lead??? Unless you have some rat holed from years ago, it's unavailable. Was outlawed by the feds years ago. The new body fillers are plenty strong when used properly....

yep you better know what your doing first getting out there on a roof with a torch and a stick of lead:eek:i did the nose of the 50 hood and stop there chevy has lead work on it i did many years ago it abit of a pain in the ass. if the metal work is good the filler should not be thick so it should not crack
05-17-2009, 05:42 AM
Itoldyouso

I see that on a lot of the car shows they use Duraglass, the one with strands in it. Not sure if it is a good finish filler because of the strands, but it does have more strength and crack resistance, I think. I have used Rage and like the way it faired in and sanded.

You can buy new leads that are supposed to be less toxic than the old ones, I think, but modern plastic fillers are so much better unless you are a hardcore traditionalist.............you know, the kind who only runs 1950 air in his tires. :LOL: Once you put the paint on, who knows what's under there anyways?

Don
05-17-2009, 06:03 AM
pat mccarthy

i was still leading some things in the body shop i work at but not every one was using it .when tined good the bond is 100% but for some guy that never used lead. a roof would not be the place to learn .i started to play with leading back over 30 years ago .i was leading things before i had a driver license. but i not a pro with it i can get 80% of the stick were it need s to be:D well now maybe alot less abit rusty .but the added heat can warp any thing you use it on. you have to know if it can take the heat like i said i did the nose of my chevy hood i knew the flex the filler may not hold well there. i knew i could not lead the mild part of the hood the heat would of turn it in to junk
05-17-2009, 06:47 AM
Dave Severson

Quote:

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

I see that on a lot of the car shows they use Duraglass, the one with strands in it. Not sure if it is a good finish filler because of the strands, but it does have more strength and crack resistance, I think. I have used Rage and like the way it faired in and sanded.

You can buy new leads that are supposed to be less toxic than the old ones, I think, but modern plastic fillers are so much better unless you are a hardcore traditionalist.............you know, the kind who only runs 1950 air in his tires. :LOL: Once you put the paint on, who knows what's under there anyways?

Don

There's also a short strand Duraglass that works quite well and as Pat mentioned Marson also makes a very good short strand and long strand 'glass filler.

I learned body work using lead, no way I'd go back to using it with the quality of good fillers available today. Products and technology change constantly. Lead was used because it was the only product available at the time. It's a very time consuming process and takes many, many hours to learn to do it correctly. I haven't tried any of these new "lead like" processes, and can't really see any reason to bother..... For the "traditionalists", think I still have a couple lead pots laying under the bench someplace. I'll trade them for a gallon can of Evercoat Gold anytime someone wants to drop by!!!!!!!!
05-17-2009, 08:52 AM
Daffy427

Duraglass

Duraglass rocks, it is the short strand filler.. The long strand product is called Long and strong...I'd still use something softer over it for surfacing like an Evercoat glaze..I wasn't around in the lead days:D
05-17-2009, 10:14 AM
pat mccarthy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evolvo

Don't want to hijack the post, but I'm wondering if these new body fillers are up to the job of adjusting door gaps? Or is this still an edge weld and grind operation? I can't ever imagine that I would park my car close enough to another that the door would hit when opened.
Thanx,
Alan

no they are not still .i still cold welded them and file them to fit the gaps
05-17-2009, 02:02 PM
JeffB2

Body filler

Went to my local Sherwin Williams body shop supply and they had a special on Evercoat Z-Grip $23 a gallon,it does everthing it claims,spreads smooth,no bubbles or pits,and is non-clogging (More mileage out of sandpaper) featheredges great,I'm sold!!
05-17-2009, 07:33 PM
pat mccarthy

well what the hell ?????? some of the post is missing ???????????????????? well some of mine oh well
05-18-2009, 04:58 PM
pat mccarthy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evolvo

Pat,
I noticed yesterday that this post was on the active thread list twice, so it depends on which one you open to see all the posts. atichargr must have posted it twice.

yup i see if i click under my name. under post made they are all still in there ..just not on here:D and here i was thinking i lost it:whacked:
05-18-2009, 05:27 PM
brianrupnow

About the stongest, bestest, other than lead, is the fiberglass impregnated polyester filler with the LONG strands of fiberglass. Next best is the same, only with short fiberglass strands. Both are a prime bitch to get a good finish on, so use a compatible filler with no fiberglass strands for final topcoat to get it paintworthy.
05-18-2009, 10:06 PM
firebird77clone

EASTWOOD still sells lead kits.