51 Chevy radiator replacment question HELP!

Last week my 51 Belair started to overheat. So I change the usual, hoses, thermostat, water pump. She was still overheating and I noticed not much flow thru the radiator. Took out the thermostat (160') and still no flow. Change the waterpump again for a new one instead of rebuilt. Still overheating but I notice the lower hose is colapsing when I rev the engine which is an indication of a blockage. Call the local radiator shop and he tells me that OSHA wont let him work on the old radiators anymore! Cant rod it out or do anything to it.

So....long story short.....anyone know what LATE model radiator I can swap out with the original one? Im running a SBC engine.

I know someone out there has done this.....It would be so nice to just go to the local autozone and order a new radiator....Thanks for any input!

What are the dimensions? Early Mustang radiators are usually a good fit some of the earlier cars or check 55-57 Chevys.

your not going to swap out to another rad less it a 49 and up to 53/54? not sure were the cut off is on that rad. but i know what i have in my chevy i used a about a f 150 ford rad 1975 or so. i rework it abit for fit so you may be better buying a new rad for your 51 there is companys that make a drop in s

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dmw56

What are the dimensions? Early Mustang radiators are usually a good fit some of the earlier cars or check 55-57 Chevys.

---

Mustang may be an option.....if the hose connectors are in the same place...but whats the advantage to going 55-57? Im trying to avoid the custom built radiator tax!! I dont give a crap what it looks like, I just want to be able to drive the darn thing! I bought this car to use for the season till my T is on the road and then sell it.....Im already over budget and just want a safe and reliable vehicle.....the next owner can worry about making it pretty!!......:CRY: :LOL:

PS....the dimensions are almost square....23 X 23. the top hose is in the center and the bottom is on the Passenger side. The top hose can be re-positioned, but the bottom cant be.

well the hose outlets can be made to work i made a lower hose out of header tubing to get the bottom hose were it needed then use abit of rubber hose in the hook up for engine movement when i had it record i had them moved .i was were you are 20 years ago with mine i look thru many rad books to find some thing to fit in the hole i do not think your going to get a 55/57 rad in there????

if you can't find anything else to fit. Chevsofthe40s does sell radiators for them fairly cheap.. a new replacement should keep it cool as you had a somewhat plugged up to the task..

as for the old rad, if it has the stampings on the top tank, and original to the car. don't throw it out.. the tanks are valuble as they hold the correct markings that the replacements don't.

Have you tried any of the flush chemicals, I had a chevy II that did the same, had to run 3 time of flush before it broke loose. the next week i had to replace the water pump again (chemical eat the seal)........LOL should have put the old pump back on first. If not the top and bottom tank should only brazed, and crimped. If you remove them you could run a rod thru the tubes. If you don't want to rebraze the tanks you could epoxy them back.
Bradc

Are you sure it's not just the bottom hose? They get weak and collapse. Find one with a wire coil inside it, or for a "farmer fix" to see if it's the problem, put a few hose clamps on it to keep it round, and test drive it. Or wrap some heavy wire around it to do the same thing.
I put a '55 Chev rad in my '54 when I put in a 283, bolted right in but a little shorter and thicker.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BradC

Have you tried any of the flush chemicals, I had a chevy II that did the same, had to run 3 time of flush before it broke loose. the next week i had to replace the water pump again (chemical eat the seal)........LOL should have put the old pump back on first. If not the top and bottom tank should only brazed, and crimped. If you remove them you could run a rod thru the tubes. If you don't want to rebraze the tanks you could epoxy them back.
Bradc

---

Self-disassembly and repair makes the most sense to me. Back to basics. :D

I'd try another radiator shop. Find an old one that does trucks and heavy equipment. I bet your first guy just didn't want to try.

Don

You might want to check out this guy on Ebay. $ 250 is very reasonable.

Don

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1949-...Q5fAccessories

If you can't find a shop to do the work & you decide you want to try and fix it yourself go buy a couple of gallons of vinegar.
Calcium(which is most likely your build up) hates Vinegar, remove the radiator & lay it flat & fill it up & let it sit for a few days. The vinegar will eat the calcium, this is what I used to clean my C-pap machine and other appliances that hold water & get a calcium build up......joe

Here's a 55 Chevy Radiator I got for my 50 Stude. Its close to 23" x 23" not exactly sure. I need to go measure it. But was a perfect fit for mine.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/20090516.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/20090513.jpg

What are the dimensions of your existing radiator? I think that most of the early 50's (Chevy) up until 58 radiators were about the same size; most of the differences were in the brackets. Performance Radiator list a new 55 Chev radiator, which might work.

There's a guy on Ebay called KMJ Performance. I bought one for the V8 Chevette I built for $149.00 brand new. Nice radiator and he's got a lot of different sizes available. This was without the built in trans cooler.

Try www.speedwaymotors.com their house brands run $129-$149 and are available in many different sizes and hose locations,I know several guys that have used them and are very satisfied.

Thanks for all the input guys....got a lot of good tips for future reference!

I think I fixed the problem. I removed the drain plugs on the engine block (full of crap!) and flushed the engine till they ran clear. Then I bought a prestone flush kit and ran it thru the radiator and engine. Then drained and flushed again with water....drained and added antifreeze. Took her for a nice ride (about 30 miles) and no more overheating!! Seems to be fixed! Thanks again for all the help!