I am debating on whether to use a 4 link suspention a an old school ladder, it is going on a 55 f100 with a 9in rear end, I'm not looking to race just cruz, any and all input welcome. :toocool:
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I am debating on whether to use a 4 link suspention a an old school ladder, it is going on a 55 f100 with a 9in rear end, I'm not looking to race just cruz, any and all input welcome. :toocool:
Personally, for a cruiser I'd lean toward a triangulated 4 bar, but that's just me. Having said that I had good luck back in the 70's with a ladder set up under my panel truck. Drove it all over the country pulling a pop-up camper and did a little time at the track too.
My vote is for the ladder bar easy to install and adjust and will still hookup if ever needed
Hard to beat the triangulated 4 bar on the street.... When set up correctly, the offer both good handling and a smooth ride.....
I have done some research and decided to go with the 4 link, it seems that the ladder bar system was designed more for the track and will not handle well around turns or on the street. thank you for your input.
If it's handling around corners on the street your after I'd look into the triangulated 4 bar. Just sayin'.
4 link is a good way to go but i would used a panhard bar and not a track link bar if you go tri anglated bar then no need for a track bar .but i used ladder bars with floaters and that rides very good
HE! HE! HE! Thats a good one Tech.
I guess the rest of us should learn from your example.
So if someone ever wants to name a street after me
I'll make sure it's not running thru the middle of the
city's trash dump. Kurt
Because a Watt's linkage is much better... A panhard bar pushes to one side, a Watt's linkage keeps the rear end centered.
yes a watts is better so beat me with the panhard bar i road in on :D but if the angle on the panhard is right its not going to pull. has abit to do with travel .but i do take some of that if any .then a strait line only track link that the car is going to plow thru a sharp corner on the street and over all suck some link needs to be made from the center of mass is best to the rear end to the frame to keep the rear end from moving a tri angle bar from the lowers controll bars just do not work that hot on the street
your at the lowest part :LOL::LOL: but alot of them cars run 3.5 front tires so .i was only the very few that like to hang one out thru a corner .i did the back 1/2 of my gto back mild 80s i moved the stock gm springs in used a ladder bar and a panhard bar built it all with a craftman welder and a hack saw.the car would take a corner . i pickup a better paying job and pick up some low line coil overs and had a pro builder re do the job i did .well i going thru the work out it was pro built now ??? well before the apex of the corner i found the car still running just about strait and allmost a t full lock:eek: he used a track link bar car was only good for strait line after that.here she is the 100 over like to eat starters
All that is very true Pat..... Unfortunately, most of the Panhard bars I've seen are put on at the wrong angles, and or are built too short and the rear end moves (acutally pushes the body weight mass) all in one direction.... When set up right, a Panhard bar can be advantageous on a circle burner. But, on the street, the neutral movement, non-binding, non-pushing Watts linkage is still the best!!!! Probably splitting hairs, but when you're going to all the effort of building a good handling car, why not go with the best setup for lateral control????? But hey, sometimes I just seem to enjoy creating extra work for myself!!!!!!!!:whacked::LOL::LOL::LOL:
if i ever build another cars it will have a watts . with my car i laid the panhard at not much angle 66gto is wide .cars like willys when the axles you can put in a shoe box any way you go it going to be hard to make it corner cutter