Figuring out fuel line size?

Save your money---about the only thing SAE abot that aluminum tubing that you buy in rolls from those supplies is the degree of the flare you need to use and that pertains to the fitting, not the tube---

now, about the braided or stainless hard line ( supplied in straight lengths(not rolls) you will find all kinds of specs and most supply houses will furnish pages of test data with each batch of tube that you order

The most you might find on the rolled alum tube would probably be like household or building codes on plumbing tubeing

Sorry but that stuff is substandard to be used anywhere in a fuel system

Man, this is getting irritating trying to find the right stuff. talked to another friend today that used to race dirt track (the cars with the big wings on top) and he said they ran regular rubber fuel lines, only used braided in certain spots.

I can only find the 1/2 steel one place so far, and they only sell that size in 6ft lengths, that makes it a hassle and would require a coupling, I don't much like that idea.

8an is 7/16" ID. that's real close to 1/2".

anyways, I had a novel idea. call edelbrock, ask them. (actually my friend recommended that, he said they made the carb and they know their stuff, go with what they said.)

In the end it is this:

Mechanical pump, 110gph flow rate
pressure regulator to make sure no more than 6psi at the carb, 5-6 is max recommended
8an braided from hard line to pump, hard line to fuel cell etc.
They said no need to run return with a mechanical pump
Also said aluminum was fine and they prefer to steel because easier with fitting etc., they DON'T recommend braided for along the frame because it hardens and will need replacing.

Also he said 3/8 was plenty until about 600hp, and return, if I did an electric, would only need to be 5/16.

I appreciate all the advice guys, you can see with so many different opinions and takes on it I had to make a decision. I know those who disagreed will be miffed, I'll buy you a beer if you're ever around.

Red

Dago

When I said 1/2 I was referring to 1/2 od which is AN-8 and yes it will be near 7/16 with .035 wall or even nearer to 3/8 with a thicker wall

More fodder ..................

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=234060


Kitz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitz

More fodder ..................

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=234060


Kitz

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One of the many reasons why I spend so little time on the HAMB - idiots that proclaim copper is the way to go - not!!! But the HAMB is the grist for other threads:LOL::LOL:.

Dago - steel or SS is the safest way to go - but either will be a bear to bend, with SS being much more difficult yet. Of course there is always the braided stuff.......but some folks have concerns about safety there as well. I don't

Man, the whole time I was looking for 1/2ID, I know that they have 3/8id in rolls. not much more money than aluminum. Okay, let me finish my parts list and I'll post it to show you all how I'm going.

you think double filters are really necessary? I don't run them on the 429, but that doesn't mean I shouldn't, just that we thought one was sufficient when we replumbed the fuel system.

One other thing, if edelbrock said 3/8 is what I should run, and I run 3/8 hard line, do I use 6an on either end of that or 8an? was planning 8an, but looks like most fittings for 3/8 npt to an are for 6an. if I use adapters I still have restrictions in the system anyways.

Thanks guys. I feel like I've almost got this all figured out.
I lied

2nd other thing, just occured to me. my holley has a fuel log that I have the pressure gauge on, but the edelbrock is a single inlet carb, where should I put the pressure gauge? gracias

I use an AN 10 line from a tank similar to yours to the Holley blue mounted on the frame. Then AN 10 up to the trans. It goes outside the frame past the bellhousing to a bulkhead AN 10. Here I go to AN 8 flex to the regulator. One side of the regulator has the pressure gage the other side has AN 8 to the carb distribution block. From here it splits to AN 6 to each 750 DP. All these lines are aluminum and flared at each connection. There are a couple of unions in the lines for ease of installation. I use line clamps where ever necessary. This works great on a SBC with a 6-71 blower. I have over 1000 miles on it in the last 4 months and there has not been a single leak or problem from the very first day.

My come back on the fatigue issue is that the very same stuff is used in aircraft every day and they don't have problems so why should we??

Even braided will deteriorate and it will be under the braid so you won't see it till its too late :eek: if you do want to use braided use the teflon version as its much more reliable but doesn't tke a tight radius.

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Originally Posted by roadster32

Even braided will deteriorate and it will be under the braid so you won't see it till its too late :eek: if you do want to use braided use the teflon version as its much more reliable but doesn't tke a tight radius.

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I agree - Dago has to do his research on which one to use, but AeroQuip has a good one and the brand I used for any flex lines except brakes (they were DOT Russel's) for my car. Longacre has the Teflon as well

Dago
There was a great thread on here on how to cut braided stainless line. If you don't want to spend a fortune on cutters, one member posted using a chisle, hammer, and aluminum block under it. I was extremely skeptical, until I watched the video and did it myself.
http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html
Also the thread itself had tons of info
here is the link
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...ting+stainless

I use the cutters from Speedway $19.99 cheap as chips and work perfectly.



http://www.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/...91089802_R.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stovens

Dago
There was a great thread on here on how to cut braided stainless line. If you don't want to spend a fortune on cutters, one member posted using a chisle, hammer, and aluminum block under it. I was extremely skeptical, until I watched the video and did it myself.
http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html
Also the thread itself had tons of info
here is the link
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...ting+stainless

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by roadster32

I use the cutters from Speedway $19.99 cheap as chips and work perfectly.

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That's french fries on this side of the lake!:LOL::LOL:

They have started calling them french fries here to now, I prefer chips :3dSMILE:

Shouldn't you guys all be at work now ???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stovens

That's french fries on this side of the lake!:LOL::LOL:

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Actually off today, and waiting for it to warm up to work on truck, I like chips better too!

I'm going to attempt to post some pictures, here is how I did mine. I used all hard line (mild steel), 100 micron filter between the tank and the fuel pump with a fuel cutoff, then a 40 micron between pump and carb. I put in a bypass reg. and return line. All of the line is 3/8's. I had never bent tubing before so it was a learning experience for me, actually I did it twice because the more I did the better I got so I wasn't happy the first time. Bob