Trouble with 79 Ford F250 351 Winsor

I tried to start the truck; it would fire then quite just as quick. I checked the gas gauge doesn't work anymore it's a 79 Ford 351 Windsor. When I put gas in the tank it started leaking, I couldn't tell where it was leaking. I took the line loose from the fuel pump and ran a line to the back of the truck to a 5 gal. Plastic can. The can is vented so I guess it will be ok. As long as I hold the switch on the truck runs, as soon as I release it, it dies. It could be the ignition switch but I'm hoping not. I'm going to put new plugs in clean the cap, rotor to see what happens, if not I'll get a new switch. The Truck has set all winter without running. When the Truck sits for a while I always have to put starting fluid in the carb to get it going.

The 5gal. can in the back is just to see If I can get it running, then I'll try to gat another tank.

Any help would be appreciated

Richard

Replace the ignition module that is located on the inner fender panel on the drivers side.

It has 2 dongles, (plugs)

I had a 74 ford f-100 that did that.

Chris

Thanks, I'll do that. I've had trouble with it ever since I bought the Truck, if it didn't start right away, I would have to put starting fluid in the carb. Now I have the gas tank to worry about. The Truck only has 63,000 mile on it. A Power Company used it.
The old Truck has been pretty handy since we live in the woods with a lot of trees to clean up. I would like to keep it running.

Thanks again Chris

Richard

Could be a wiring connection or broken wire, but the odds are it's the module.

yea, and while your at it ditch the Duraspark II modual...a GM HEI modual can be used and there a whole lot cheaper. just need to zip tie an old PC heat sink to it with some thermal paste

I had a starter solenoid cause that problem,disconnect the other small terminal on the solenoid and see if it will stay running. The other terminal gives a shot to the ignition while starting and sometimes it can short out the ignition if the solenoid goes bad and had a couple do that,if that is not the problem look into the module on the fenderwell.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt167

yea, and while your at it ditch the Duraspark II modual...a GM HEI modual can be used and there a whole lot cheaper. just need to zip tie an old PC heat sink to it with some thermal paste

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BALONEY!!!!

There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with Duraspark that HEI will cure

I replaced the module, and the Truck did the same thing, let the key go and it would die.
I put a new ignition switch on, and it started and stayed running. I had one heck of a time getting the tumbler out of the switch housing; my wife was helping since I needed and extra hand. My wife said use some Wd-40 I didn’t do it and kept fighting the thing, finally I put some Wd-40 between the tumbler and housing and it came right out. I had to eat crow for the rest of the day.:eek:

I should have tried that first but sometimes you look for the worse. That used to happen on the tri five Chevy’s, when the switch would go bad, you let the key return to run and it would die.

Well it couldn’t hurt by changing the module since I've had the Truck for 15 years.

Thanks for your help

Richard

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IC2

BALONEY!!!!

There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with Duraspark that HEI will cure

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my grandparents had an LTD that went thru moduals more frequently than monthly. it would get so it wouldn't start hot ( crank tho ). they sold it for $600 before it was even 10 years old... friend of my Faimly also had a Jeep with the Duraspark II. same no hot start condition. he put a few moduals in it before finally getting rid of it...

last time I bought a new Duraspark box it was around $80, and an HEI modual is around $30.. the distributors are a good retrofit. my Falcon had 1. but I used an MSD box to control it. did get the modual for it, but returned it shortly after and then got the MSD

FYI If anyone has a no start when hot with the duraspark its the pick up coil in the distributor,when they go bad they will run all day but when you shut it off you will have to wait untill it cools before it will start again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Matt167

my grandparents had an LTD that went thru moduals more frequently than monthly. it would get so it wouldn't start hot ( crank tho ). they sold it for $600 before it was even 10 years old... friend of my Faimly also had a Jeep with the Duraspark II. same no hot start condition. he put a few moduals in it before finally getting rid of it...

last time I bought a new Duraspark box it was around $80, and an HEI modual is around $30.. the distributors are a good retrofit. my Falcon had 1. but I used an MSD box to control it. did get the modual for it, but returned it shortly after and then got the MSD

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An Airtex is ~$30, a Standard is ~$56. The MOST I ever paid for one was less then $30 and that was a Standard for my 'bucket in 1988!!!! Whoinhel wants to screw around with bastardizing a 30 year old pickup ignition system unless he was doing a lot more then using it as a DD!!!!

And yes, the ignition pickup that used to be ~$12 is the source of many headaches - and they are now close to $30:eek:

Matt, the Delco was $93.00 at Advance, they had a cheaper universal one for $32.00 my wife picked it up. I would have to cut switch the wires for it to work in the plug socket. My wife took it back, and got one from NAPA they had one for $78.00 and one for $31.78 with tax. I bought the cheaper one and didn't have to change the wires.

Richard