Another Question for the paint Pro's.

Ok I went in to Finish masters today for so 1/4 in plastic tape and some of my much loved Dura glass body filler.
The guy behind the counter tries to sell me a can of this stuff he said is just like lead in a can and it comes with a hardner. He say's it goes on real smooth with almost no sanding, He said it's been around for a long time but it used to be real expensive and has started comming down in prce.
Anyone know about this stuff or have any experience with it.
He also said it is water proof as well. Thanks Kurt

Used to be a product out on the market called Aluma Lead---If it's the same stuff it's a super strong waterproof filler.... Haven't seen it around for years though....

well sound about rigth like dave said .there was a alum lead . PPG made it .it had a grape color hardner . but theres about 10 others over the years i have used as good as the alum lead it was good but you had to mix the hell out of it . was messy as there was a dry part the alum filler and them the grape color hardner. usc plasic was the one of the one i used the most of still hard to beat mar glas or dura glass for filling

There are different brands of this filler on the market that have an aluminum base to them. You must apply a skim coat of dura glass over the aluma base stuff. The aluma base does not sand smooth enough to paint and is somewhat porous.

Thanks Guy's, He said this stuff only comes in quart cans and to hear that guy down there it is the greatest stuff ever made. I had used something like this years ago and it was runy and liked to drip, I didn't like it at all. I was not sure if this was the same stuff but it sounds like it to me. I am glad I didn't buy it. The cost was about the same as a gallon can of Dura glass for only a quart can of it. I don't mind sanding as long as my finished product is nice and smooth. I've never had any issue's with the dura glass and no problems with it poping out like bondo. I keep getting guys telling me to put a thin coat out bondo over the dura glass but I never have.
The dura glass always seamed smooth enough for me, though I have sometime used another thin coat on top of my fist coat of dura glass. What do you guys recomend?
Gonna do my first classic flame paint with a bass coat clear coat and want it to look really nice. I am gonna be useing a good primmer filler for small scratches because the truck will be taken all the way down to bare metal. But it's all about a nice looking body first. Thanks Kurt

Ans it sands like a ROCK when its real dry ... LOL

yep the alum lead was runny and hard to work with but not as hard to finsh as lead . some of the metal fillers were porous. i work at one shop were that was the only filler he wanted us to use it was tricky to get it so you could primer over it . i would use a good filler to fill the scratches and over the dura glass . less primer for body filler .that way your only filling 120 grit marks and low spots from blocking it out .if you want a job that will have good hold out .i tried never to fill deep marks with primer but have seen two parts fill alot more i did not push it to much :HMMM:. in things time can pop up and show in your finsh

SprayTech; Are you talking about the aluma lead or the Dura glass?
I don't have problems doing lips dings or dents, it's the long flat straite's that get's me.
I even do real good on rounded roof's like VW bugs. I need to buy one of those long air blocks for sanding the long straites then I think I will do better on the straites.
On the small stuff I like the small hand blocks, I do my best work with those and have many times sanded the whole car by hand with the small block. Just give me a little rum and I don't stop till it's done and it looks good. And no I am not a drinker maybe once a year but that rum seams to help the sore muscle in the old arm!!! HE! HE! HE! Kurt

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Originally Posted by vara4

SprayTech; Are you talking about the aluma lead or the Dura glass?
. Just give me a little rum and I don't stop till it's done and it looks good. And no I am not a drinker maybe once a year but that rum seams to help the sore muscle in the old arm!!! HE! HE! HE! Kurt

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hey there was some thing i knew i like about you KURT . i stop drinking but i did love the rum as for dura glass .i used it all the time as well used a soft 8 inch pad to bust it down

I guess we were posting at the same time Pat.
Ya thats what I was talkig about too. I have never painted a car that
I first did not take down to bare metal just to see what was underneth.
I have had lots of guys say don't take it down that far, and a few time I have regreted it. But in the long run I think it is worth it so I don't get any suprizes like rust popping up.
I was just talking about small blocking scratches then I wet sand the primmer let it dry then wipe it down and paint.Though it's been a long time fo me doing a body.
Thanks for all the good tips, please keep them comming.
I need all the help I can get, I don't want to forget any good steps, I should do first.
Kurt

Ok there is a new one Pat!!!
What is a 8 inch soft pad? That one I don't know.
Kurt

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Originally Posted by vara4

I guess we were posting at the same time Pat.
Ya thats what I was talkig about too. I have never painted a car that
I first did not take down to bare metal just to see what was underneth.
I have had lots of guys say don't take it down that far, and a few time I have regreted it. But in the long run I think it is worth it so I don't get any suprizes like rust popping up.
I was just talking about small blocking scratches then I wet sand the primmer let it dry then wipe it down and paint.Though it's been a long time fo me doing a body.
Thanks for all the good tips, please keep them comming.
I need all the help I can get, I don't want to forget any good steps, I should do first.
Kurt

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get the rum out i will be rigth down :3dSMILE:
dark rum if you got it . yep i strip them all the time i would point to the my prep boy the rust waiting to pop up under what look like sound paint . on used parts if we had to use the at the shops i work at i strip to so i knew what i was putting down was not going to blow up

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vara4

Ok there is a new one Pat!!!
What is a 8 inch soft pad? That one I don't know.
Kurt

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8 inch sticky paper in 36/40/80 grit that i ran on at a low speed buffer . i did use a bond hog that was just a big D.A

Ok Thanks Pat; Ya I got a 8 in. air DA.
I've got the old hood off my 65 Ranchero that I have been painting differant stuff on for pratice. Ya know Lighting bolts, Water drops, Flames, pictures.
Then I take the 8 in. DA and clean the old stuff off.
But the hood is really straite, just a couple little dings.
The Ranchero is getting a one piece front end so that hood won't be used.
So it's a good pratice tool for me. Kurt