Printable View
I have a new old stock AC delco fuel pump that was given to me, never been used, I know its twelve volts not sure what kind of pressure it puts out, it has a date code of 7-77, it cleaned up nice and I`ve made a frame bracket for it out of stainless, but before I install it would you guys use it, it has a nostalgic theme to it, kinda fits my build.
even if you dont have it functional put it somewhere in line so it will show if you like it that way .. just let fuel blow thru it
Hook it up to a 12 volt source and let it run for awhile. If it seems ok, then use it.
Wouldn't you want to have it flowing fuel for this test, like maybe pumping in a return loop back to the tank? I would wonder about running it dry for any extended period of time.....might be good when you start but ruined by the test?Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsetdart
I can use a test can, just hook up a ground and a hot lead, it does come apart for sevicing thou I haven`t had it apart ...
I'd check it as you described to ensure that it works and if so I'd plumb it in along with a regulator and fuel pressure gauge.
The mod number is the psi in your case 12 psi
DONT run it dry for more than a few seconds!!! Most electric vane pumps are
cooled by the fuel flow and dont like pumping air.
You can wire in a neat fuel pump shutoff using a 96-2000 chevy vortec 5.7 truck oil pressure switch...it has a circuit that opens when the oil pressure dies. If you wire a relay coil thru the switch, when the engine is off or the oil pressure dies, the fuel pump is shut off. You also need a hot feed on the start lead of your ignition switch to energize the pump when you are cranking.
Those were actually a pretty good street pump. I ran one years ago on my Ford powered Sprite and it never overpowered the Holley carb. As I recall it was something like 4-5 psi. I don't know if they are still being made or not, but haven't seen one in years. Nice nostalgia piece. Worst that can happen is it craps out after a while and then you have to deal with putting something else in it's place.
Don
Well sinse I don`t trust the one that is in there, this might be the time..
Just be aware that excessive pressure into the fuel bowl will overpower the needle and seat and blow raw fuel into the intake manifold. This will generate tuning nightmares that will make you crazy.:whacked:
Carter AFB, Edelbrock Performer and Quadrajet will tolerate a max of about 5 1/2 psi. Holleys will tolerate a max of about 6 1/2 psi. Install a quality regulator and adjust accordingly.:)
You need to monitor the pressure under driving conditions, so tee off at the fuel inlet at the carb bowl and run a piece of nylon or copper tubing back to the firewall, then up past the hood lip to the cowl in front of the windshield. Temporarily (with tie-wraps or racer tape or whatever) mount a 0-15 psi gauge so you can see it through the windshield while driving. If you don't do this, you'll never know whether you have the optimum pressure going into the bowl or not.
if it's never been used since new...I'd guess that the gasket(s) might be a bit dried out. I'd either replace them, or maybe soak the pump in some kerosene just to fatten up that gasket a bit.
dj
Already have press req and qauge, and I did soak it for a few days now, tomorrow will put the 12 volts to it from one can to another. Sad thing is I will have to drain my tank before install, want to change all the old line out to the pump with a new one, in fact maybe I`ll just change it all out all the way to the motor sinse there is a union about half way up that I did many years ago, opinions wanted filter canister before pump or after...?:HMMM:
I like a nice big cartridge filter between the tank and pump, one that I can get to in order to change regularly. If it gets clogged, it will tend to burn up the pump. If you don't have a filter between the tank and the pump, then you'll be runnin' trash through the pump and that ain't good either.Quote:
Originally Posted by 406Rich
You'll see suppliers of pumps tell you first one way and then the other, so in the end, do what makes sense to you.
Yep, before the pump. Some also install one after, but I just do the one before.
Don
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...M-G1507_IT.jpg
Thinking of using this,,,,summits brand of canister filter, 10 microns...
Yep, that's what I'd be thinkin'.
You don't want to pressurize that type of filter--they will seep gas pretty bad when pressurized even a few pounds
Under suction (between tank and pump) they do nicely
Thanks Jerry that I did not know,,,,
Fuel pump update.....well I think things are getting out of hand, sinse I last spoke tested fuel pump for action and leaks. I was amazed that it didnot leak, flow was good, OK we`re good to go, started to build new line from back to front, nope did`nt like it, made a trip downtown to ABC stainless tubing and picked some 3/8 x 8 ft, had to take it to a friends house to flare it after I cut what I needed, polished it and started to hang it and the pump, now I don`t like the tank, OK now I`m looking at Bob Drakes stainless tanks.. with a return line of course its gonna be stainless,( question...should the return line be 5/16...? ) where`s this gonna end, am I just being in denial, just another hotrod junkie.....:whacked:
Why are you doing a return line?
Don
I`ve read that you shouldn`t dead head an electric pump.....any thoughts / opinions on this, is this a fable, I don`t know..:)
I've probably used 10 of them over the years, simply terminated into the carb(s) and never had an issue. I know with fuel injection you need a return line, but with carbs I've never heard of doing that. Will be interesting to see what some of our other guys have to offer.
Don
I had dead headed my last pump and I always thought that it added load (amps) and shortened the pump life with added heat. This time I got a 3 port Mallory regulator and added a short return back to the suction side. I can regulate psi down to almost nothing and the electric load is less than half of what it was. Plus it is a bit quieter too. Overkill ?? Perhaps. Effective?? I think so. Besides what else do I have to keep me busy besides body work and more sanding!! :LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 406Rich
Jerry,
Thanks from me too as I have my filter after the pump. See attachment. Will have to rearrangement for filter and pump. Must be a good thing my build is going so slow.:rolleyes::LOL:
Jack.
That is what I experienced back in the early eighties, using a holley pump, it got hot and quit, but it took a while to fiqure it out, that is why this time I decided to run a return line.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Yes but, I just return into the inlet side, not the tank!Quote:
Originally Posted by 406Rich
Are you running the line back behind the pump...?Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Yes. The relief port from the 3 port regulator, I reconnected back into the inlet of the pump. I've got 4 PSI going to the carb.Quote:
Originally Posted by 406Rich
Thanks, that just made my life easier...:LOL:
And that's why I did that! :LOL: 'ccause we're known as the helpful website!:whacked::LOL:**)......... Nah, I couldn't see any reason why it would make any difference. Dump it into the tank or into the supply line. I love how it primes the pump after sitting a few weeks too!:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by 406Rich
used a bunch of these before solid state and still have one on the shelf I would not hesitate to use, good advice on filter and regulator
All good and helpful information.
Thanks,
Jack.