When doing brakes double flares , are they 37 degrees or 45 degrees as I want to order a hydraulic Mastercool flaring kit.
Thanks
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When doing brakes double flares , are they 37 degrees or 45 degrees as I want to order a hydraulic Mastercool flaring kit.
Thanks
Brake line double flares are 45 degrees, AN flares are 37 degrees.
what Dave said
you damn guys bring up brake lines and I go on an errand in my truck and the steel line on rear axle starts leaking--oh, well, I was just thinking I should replace all of the lines as it is a 1999 with about 600,000 miles on it---
You would not believe how many cars(trucks) I work on and find compression fittings on brake lines.
I see this quite often as well and it makes me cringe! Not on any work I do. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Brass if installed right is good for 500 psi. A master cylinder will get 1300 to 1500 easy. Its not easier to double flare but a bunch safer
If you use Swage-Loc or Parker-Hannifin steel or SS fittings you can get away with compression fittings (but not on my car anyhow) as we had literally hundreds on each gas turbines/LM2500 engines with up to 5000 psig for fuel and hydraulic devices. Unfortunately, the local Auto Zone or Home Depot don't sell them, only the el cheapo brass fittings, made 'somewhere else'.
IMO a properly flared line mated to it's proper fitting is a hard situation to beat. I purchased a quality hydraulic flaring tool and I don't regret it one bit. It makes nice flares and you can get to hard to get areas with it to repair rusted or pinched lines. The compression fittings to me in a brake system (other than air) with steel lines is just asking for problems to me. Like you said the higher quality fittings hold, but they're also using high grade stainless line too. Not some cheap mild china steel that will crush when the high quality compression fitting is tightened. :)
What make of hydraulic flaring tool have you gotQuote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
What is the best product to put on the brake fittings that you would normally screw into the resiundual valves or similar.Wouls you just use thread tape or a locktite productQuote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
They are NPT threads and don't require any thing else to sealQuote:
Originally Posted by roadster
I would say that unless you are going to use the hydraulic flaring tool on a daily or at least a fairly regular basis, you are spending a lot of money for a tool that will be sitting in your tool box most of the time. Imperial Eastman make a very nice manual 45* flare tool that takes a wee bit more physical effort, but will last you a lifetime. I've had their 93-FB for many years, probably over 40, and have, to the best of my remembrance, never made a bad flare. https://www.flowline.net/Default.asp...UBLE+FLARE*4@@.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster
If you want to do SS and 37* single flares, -AN fittings, then a Rigid works nicely.
These tools are what work for me - others, of course will have their opinions and experiences
37 is used for aircraft fittings commonly referred to as AN fittings. Normal brake and fuel fittings are 45.
Not so. AN fittings are REQUIRED for most racing organizations along with braided SS lines for fuel as well as brake and other hydraulic devices. They are also the type of fittings and lines that many of us use for our hobby vehicles. I probably have 3-400 dollars worth of them along with rigid stainless steel tube lines, which can only be single flared, on my '31.Quote:
Originally Posted by vtwhead
Definition: AN thread - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia