http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0346.jpg
Today I decided to take a peek under these rust bubbles.
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http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0346.jpg
Today I decided to take a peek under these rust bubbles.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0347.jpg
Under the paint was bondo. Under the bondo was cancer.
Anyone make this patch panel for a 69 nomad?
i have made them but should be the same as chevelle
that realy dosen't look that complicated to make
Summit - 1969 CHEVROLET CHEVELLE Goodmark Full and Partial Quarter Panels - $20-$50 Price Range - SummitRacing.comQuote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
I have only very basic tools. If it can't be done with hammer, dolly, and tin snips, it's beyond me.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0350.jpg
There's more to be done, the inner metal is also diseased.
Basically, nothing but flat panels, can easily be duplicated with a piece of 20ga.
I have a panel for a 69 el Camino on the way, it's supposed to be a good fit.
I've got to pick up some patch steel, and some flanging pliers
Flange invites rust,butt weld em.And a piece of 20 gauge,a hammer,dolly and snips is all ya need to make those.
This will be the longest patch I've done, I thought a flanged seam would reduce chance of warping the panel
Patience when welding is what prevents warpage!!!!
A flanged seam is susceptible to warping as well, but it much more difficult to fix afterwards. With a butt welded seam you can planish the welds as you go to control the shrinking that is causing the warpage.
butt weld is the only way i done most all rust work .hammer weld . wish i could say i never fixed rust :( i never used a flage jointed on any thing never cared for the hi point they can rise by the step . i over lap some stuff but no more then 1/4 lap . if you do over lap water and dirt can lay in the joint . take your time fit up is key . tune in the welder so you do not pile alot of weld on the joint . warping can happen from grinding you weld joint down as well
Good tips, thanks. All my previous patching has been butt.
Seems to me, if the repair is complete, then there is no dirt or water can get to it.
One question, how does one planish when you can't dolly on the backside?
The inner panel needs repair/replacing as well, so cut out enough to allow access for panishing. Purpose-built dollies may help for access, such as the U-shaped one below, another has a long arm on it, but I don't believe I had a picture of that one. Once outside is installed and planishing complete, for welding in the inner panel the distortion will be less of an issue as with the outside. But that panel should also be fairly straight bends where you may be able to fabricate the inner more readily as a one-piece replacement, for spot/plug welding back to original mounting flanges.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Eqpt/dolly.jpg