http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0346.jpg
Today I decided to take a peek under these rust bubbles.
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http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0346.jpg
Today I decided to take a peek under these rust bubbles.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0347.jpg
Under the paint was bondo. Under the bondo was cancer.
Anyone make this patch panel for a 69 nomad?
i have made them but should be the same as chevelle
that realy dosen't look that complicated to make
Summit - 1969 CHEVROLET CHEVELLE Goodmark Full and Partial Quarter Panels - $20-$50 Price Range - SummitRacing.comQuote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
I have only very basic tools. If it can't be done with hammer, dolly, and tin snips, it's beyond me.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0350.jpg
There's more to be done, the inner metal is also diseased.
Basically, nothing but flat panels, can easily be duplicated with a piece of 20ga.
I have a panel for a 69 el Camino on the way, it's supposed to be a good fit.
I've got to pick up some patch steel, and some flanging pliers
Flange invites rust,butt weld em.And a piece of 20 gauge,a hammer,dolly and snips is all ya need to make those.
This will be the longest patch I've done, I thought a flanged seam would reduce chance of warping the panel
Patience when welding is what prevents warpage!!!!
A flanged seam is susceptible to warping as well, but it much more difficult to fix afterwards. With a butt welded seam you can planish the welds as you go to control the shrinking that is causing the warpage.
butt weld is the only way i done most all rust work .hammer weld . wish i could say i never fixed rust :( i never used a flage jointed on any thing never cared for the hi point they can rise by the step . i over lap some stuff but no more then 1/4 lap . if you do over lap water and dirt can lay in the joint . take your time fit up is key . tune in the welder so you do not pile alot of weld on the joint . warping can happen from grinding you weld joint down as well
Good tips, thanks. All my previous patching has been butt.
Seems to me, if the repair is complete, then there is no dirt or water can get to it.
One question, how does one planish when you can't dolly on the backside?
The inner panel needs repair/replacing as well, so cut out enough to allow access for panishing. Purpose-built dollies may help for access, such as the U-shaped one below, another has a long arm on it, but I don't believe I had a picture of that one. Once outside is installed and planishing complete, for welding in the inner panel the distortion will be less of an issue as with the outside. But that panel should also be fairly straight bends where you may be able to fabricate the inner more readily as a one-piece replacement, for spot/plug welding back to original mounting flanges.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y16...Eqpt/dolly.jpg
that first body line will hold the panle from moving alot from welding heat .having the new panel fit up will pay off a great deal. working the weld can help but less you have work with sheet metal alot you can add to a big mess . for dollys... part of a old leaf spring or a crow bar can be rework for a backer doly and body spoons use nail puller bars lifting door skins up to work then up you can make stuff up i have re worked bar stock to form metal. water will and can get in that panel and if it.s moister can get traped in threre if there no vents or drains
I hadn't noticedany drains in that section, and it wouldn't have occurred to me to add one.
Whomever did the previous work did me no favors by leaving in the dirt. Had he spent an extra five minutes cleaning out the panel bottom, there would be far less rot.
The el Camino panel works, but needed some massaging and trimming. I was able to use the trim scrap to fabricate the inner panel. I got it welded in, but it's not a stellar job. My cheap flux core welder doesn't make it easy.
What is a good sealant for the seam? I almost slapped on some white lightning .. latex caulk with silicone.
plug welds on lip ? long as there spots for it to drain we used a 3m brand sealer easy to find but i liked the brush type of sealer . some of it comes in a cauk tube i look for one that a rubber base the stuff we used was rubber seal brand but i do not know if they they still make it the drip check sealer is not the best from 3m but works 3m stuff shinks backQuote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
What's the best place to find it
auto paint store or online see if you can find the dyantron brand
Picked up 3m caulk and carquest brand undercoat.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0357.jpg
Outer panel now ready for final trim and instal.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...e/IMAG0358.jpg
OK all trimmed up and installed. Kind of resulted in a funky double body line. At least, there is minimal warping.