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8 inch pad on an air sander, that I can run slow. 36 or 40 grit. strip the corners by hand with 40 or 80 grit.
I can strip the car in one day... and it's already sanded for primer. Uses less than a box of sanding discs.
Then I metal prep and bury it in primer.
Great adhesion... low materials cost... minimal hours... no problem with stripper residue affecting the paint... what else do you want? :-)
(Do not use this method on fiberglass. LOL!)
SHINE: Please elaborate? By your assessment, what are the pitfalls?Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
The car was painted about 25 years ago. I've stripped some of the paint in a small spot and it looks like it was taken all the way to metal as there is no sign of the original finish. Course, just the original top finish may have been stripped off.Quote:
HOSS429 SAID: you say it`s been painted once before .. how old is the paint?
JKFlash,
It's still pretty warm here, not in the 90's anymore, but mid 80's most afternoons. I'm thinking that a combination of wet and dry might be the ticket?????
Let me ask this---the body on the car is in exceptional condition. Granted, I don't know what's under the paint but I have one spot on the entire car, very bottom left rear quarter, that is rusted through. Is it necessary to completely strip the car down to metal? Probably time to get a body man/painter in the shop to take a look and give me an opinion.
i wont use anything that is not compatible with the paint. i will not paint a car that has been stripped and has metal prep on it. i will not paint a car that has been soda blasted. i will not paint a car that has ospho or any other kind of acid on it. you ask any tech at any of the majors what the #1 problem call is and he will say acid. today's paints just do not like it.