Printable View
OK, here's what I have. Put window up and will not go down. Checked out switch and have juice from switch to plug both up and down. So figured that was OK. Checked to see if anything was jammed(nope). Motor will turn one way(up). Figured motor was bad. Picked up a rblt motor and it does the same thing? Turns only one way Any Ideas? :confused: Any help would be appreciated THANKS!!
Check your wiring for ground in the down rotation. You've verified power it seems but you need ground to complete the circuit.
First guess, something going on with the wiring, did it ever work in the first place ?
Instead of reinventing the wheel have a look bellow.
Thanks for the info. Will try that first thing in the morning. Yes, it did work. I put the window up and it just quit. I tried another motor and it also does the same thing. I did test wires from drivers side switch and the switch for pass side had no current. Maybe that switch is bad? Never ran across this before.
Check your wiring where it goes from body to doors on both sides. I think you may find a pinched wire, or a wire that has broken from repeated flex.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel Warrior
Pass side switch is bad
Most Power Windows are controlled with Relays (or a "Controller"), while (for instance) earlier Chevy's ('58-64 for instance) did not-they used heavy Wiring and Switches that could handle the current required-
If yours does not have Relays (and you have to replace the Switch), just be aware that you will need a higher Amp Switch-I have Nu-Relics Power Windows in my '35, and they do not use Relays (but could be a good source for the Switch (if you don't know where it came from)-
A lot of street rod applications use the universal kits from places like Specialty Power Windows - Specialty Power Windows which I believe is one of the better kits out there. If it was working fine but stopped without any other symptoms (like sporadic action of a switch, slow movement of a motor, start/stop stutter, etc) then the most common problem is a broken conductor at a hinge point, either pinched and cut or simply broken due to hundreds of tight flexes over time (may be inside the insulation, not evident). Switches do go bad, but it's more often after they're very old and have cycled a bunch. I'd check continuity of each wire in your harness if you can't see a break, to eliminate the simple things first. I found the circuits on power windows to be very confusing, thus the beauty of a wiring harness.