Looking into buying a 1938 Ford

I am looking into buy a 1938 Ford from a guy,said he is not ready to sell yet.In his garage just sitting there for 2 years and everything is there.Ran out of money on this project.He is going through a divorce and luckily his estranged wife is not going after this one.He started this project 2 years ago and I offered to buy it from him 3 weeks from him,said not yet.Has an aftermarket frame set up for a small block Chevrolet which I plan on dropping in a 350 Chevy with a 700R4 transmission if I ever get to buy it.I offered $3,500.00 cash for it and he turned it down.Most of the hard work is done,floor board is rusted out in one small spot is the only rust area left and most of it has been fixed right.I am giving him time and not pressuring him at all.Said I am #1 on his list to buy if he decides to sell it.

Cool! Is it a coupe or sedan? What aftermarket frame setup? I have a '37 tudor humpback with mustang II, small block Ford, T5 trans. It's turned into a long term project but wouldn't sell it. Hopefully, I'll finish it before they throw dirt in my face! Hahaha!!! Welcome to CHR!
Randy

It is a TCI frame powder coated black already and he has every piece of paperwork,is a sedan.The engine machine shop I deal with said I was better off with the small block Chevrolet for reliability reasons.This machine shop I deal with is building a 383 stroker for a 1937 Ford currently.I am going to build the engine and transmission myself.

Almost any engine is reliable if properly built and maintained. SB Chevys tend to be less expensive to build. You might want to consider a 200-4R trans. Although I have a 700-R4, I wish I had thought about the 200-4R. The gear splits are a little more friendly. The low gear in a 700-R4 is a real stump puller.

You can build a 383 for about the same. I was kinda looking around for something like that, just the body, I was wanting to build something fenderless. A body that was workable started out at $4000 unless you could run upon something that they didn't know what they had. A guy asked me $2500 for a 42 chevy rough cab, and frame with 2 very rough doors!

Sure, most people put Chevy engines in these because it's easy but I kinda wanted a Ford in a Ford just to be different.:eek::LOL: Actually, if I had the money, I'd snag a low mileage Coyote 5.0/6spd and fit that in there.....:D

I don't trust the 200R4,a pile of junk.Transmission repair shop owner I am good friends with said void this transmission.The 5.0 Coyote,going to be real expensive to fix when it breaks and I don't need that.This one is all original all steel body.

BEWARE of the Coyote, his bark is as bad as his bite!

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Originally Posted by skylerc

I don't trust the 200R4,a pile of junk.Transmission repair shop owner I am good friends with said void this transmission.The 5.0 Coyote,going to be real expensive to fix when it breaks and I don't need that.This one is all original all steel body.

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A lot of folks thought that about Powerglides in the 60's until Art Carr almost made them bulletproof and they've been one of the mainstays in drag racing ever since. It's all in who does the rebuilding.

And, Art Carr builds the 200R's the same way, bulletproof..

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Originally Posted by 36 sedan

And, Art Carr builds the 200R's the same way, bulletproof..

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Thank you, my point exactly.

I still don't trust the 200R4s,last one kicked my butt rebuilding one.He called me tonight and realized he needed to save money up to pay his lawyer,said it's mine.Offered me $4,000.00 for it and I agreed on the price.Has a title and he is going to take it to my place.I know the 700R4s very well.Plus I have a 350 sitting around worth rebuilding,came out of a 1989 Chevy truck that ran good

Cool that you wound up with it. Photos please!

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Originally Posted by skylerc

He called me tonight and realized he needed to save money up to pay his lawyer,said it's mine.Offered me $4,000.00 for it and I agreed on the price.Has a title and he is going to take it to my place.

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Wow! If you're getting the whole car with a TCI chassis that's already powercoated for $4K, that's a great deal!! That chassis alone starts in the $10-12K range from TCI!
Congrats!! Add me to the "anxious to see pics" list! :D

Congrats on getting the '38! The '38 sedans are my favorite of the late '30s Fords. If it were not for the frame being set up for a SBC, my drivetrain of choice would be one of the last generation flathead V8s with an AOD...or to be really strange, a 300cid inline 6 with an AOD

He also realized that he would of never finished it either.Decided to go with electronic fuel injection for the fuel system also,I have a multi port fuel injection set up for a small block Chevrolet sitting around.I am not good with most carburetors.Going to drop it off on Thursday.Handed the payment,all cash this morning.

Are you familiar with the laws for titles and registration of your end product? You have a body on a different frame with a different engine, and Michigan does not seem to adhere to the vehicle classifications promulgated by SEMA. Just bringing it up, because it can get real expensive later on if you don't check beforehand.

The frame was bad when he bought it and the vin is on a plate made by a jeweler which will be mounted on the firewall

THAT is a big can of worms. You better start your homework.

I am getting the original frame which is butchered up with it too and I know where the vin is on the original frame.Lots of rust and the repairs were not done right to the frame.

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Originally Posted by skylerc

The frame was bad when he bought it and the vin is on a plate made by a jeweler which will be mounted on the firewall

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You're playing with fire there, my friend. Michigan has not adapted the SEMA model, and their laws/regulations are quite complex. Anyone who inspects that car will know that a VIN made by a jewler is not correct for that car. VINs in that era were stamped on the frame and various places per the following:

Quote from HAMB: VIN, V-ehicle I-dentification N-umber, for early Fords from 32-48 is found on the original transmission bellhousing above the inspection cover(pull floorboards to see this one),and near the front crossmember rivets on 37-48 cars and 37-47 Pickups. The number can also be found on top of the rail under the post at the back of the front door and at the rear crossmember on top of the rail.

Since all the VINs were on the frame for your '38, and you have a new frame, putting a new one on the firewall just wont pass muster. Having the original frame may help, though. Since you have the original frame and a legit title (I assume) you may be able to work it out. Still worth checking with the DMV, though.

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

You're playing with fire there, my friend. Michigan has not adapted the SEMA model, and their laws/regulations are quite complex. Anyone who inspects that car will know that a VIN made by a jewler is not correct for that car. VINs in that era were stamped on the frame and various places per the following:

Quote from HAMB: VIN, V-ehicle I-dentification N-umber, for early Fords from 32-48 is found on the original transmission bellhousing above the inspection cover(pull floorboards to see this one),and near the front crossmember rivets on 37-48 cars and 37-47 Pickups. The number can also be found on top of the rail under the post at the back of the front door and at the rear crossmember on top of the rail.

Since all the VINs were on the frame for your '38, and you have a new frame, putting a new one on the firewall just wont pass muster. Having the original frame may help, though. Since you have the original frame and a legit title (I assume) you may be able to work it out. Still worth checking with the DMV, though.

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The title is clean and green.The engine and transmission he still has and getting this also.Wrote down the vin from the bellhousing on the transmission.This is what I found so far
Michigan has a process for titling an owner built vehicle, which is what many hot rods are. You are required to have receipts from major components of the vehicle (body, frame, engine, etc.) and get the application from the Secretary of State office. The vehicle will be inspected by an officer of the law (you can pick which police agency you go to) and must comply with a standard set of rules such as lights, turn signals, etc. Emission certification is not required. However, many choose to go with an original title for the modified car. This is much simpler as no inspection is required. Historic license plates are available from the state with 10 year renewal cycle.

If the vehicle has been unregistered for several years, there will be no record of the vehicle in the state's computer files. Just go to the Secretary of State office and request a new title to replace the title you "lost". Your age and the age of the vehicle must balance with the length of time the title has been "lost". Just be sure the vehicle is not listed as stolen in another state.

If you are restoring or rodding a vehicle with an intact VIN tag or stamping (on those without tags) and are missing the title, then you can get a form for a new title from the Secretary of State office. Fill out the form and have a police officer verify the tag and sign the form. Bring the form back to the SOS and the state will send a new title.

Good job. That is exactly the research you needed to do.

Luckily I know a cop that will do it,he does this.I do have the receipt for the 350 from a junkyard including the transmission.Have the receipt for the frame also.

Nice score on the 38! That's a steal for sure!

It was a good deal and all the parts are there.I have a complete floor coming,ordered that this morning.I am having my good auto body guy/painter Gus do the body work and paint job since I am not good at this.Paying some money and a trade for a case of Jim Beam Devil's Cut whiskey.

Just make sure you give him the whiskey "AFTER" the job is done!:eek::LOL::D

I am getting the whiskey,he goes across state lines getting liquor cheaper.I am already making him happy,not a lot of dents and rust to deal with.I have the engine,a 350 Chevy already torn down which the block and crankshaft is at the machine shop including the RHS vortec heads I am using which are being ported including the special intake.