New tool. Probably used 30 studs so far.
I'm thinking to take the dremil wheel to the cam and give it more aggressive teeth
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New tool. Probably used 30 studs so far.
I'm thinking to take the dremil wheel to the cam and give it more aggressive teeth
I would've thought the copper is soft enough for the tool to "bite" into. But, I've never used one!
I'm pretty sure the studs are steel, with a copper finish.
Last night, I pulled the rear valence, and I was able to easily dolly out its damage. One of the clip nuts broke during disassembly though. I always question making sparks in vicinity of a gas tank, it just seems like a bad idea. But, the die grinder with cutoff wheel made quick work of it. I also was able to determine that the windshield trim and rear defrost duct probably got sold with the parts car. Bummer that.
Hello,
Good looking Charger. One of my favorite body styles to be sure. Patches are looking good!
I replaced my slide hammer with this tool called a "Stud Lever". This think works like a charm for pulling out dents with NO slippage like the slide hammer did and with real control of the dent instead of the hit or miss slide hammer I was using. Here's a few pics. I think it was like $35 bucks or so. Works great for me.
Don Jr.
I found this one on evil bay, looks like a great tool, thanks Mr Blue.
Steck Stud Lever Grips Studs Pull Pins Creating Accurate Pulls 20014 | eBay
Great video on the stud lever in action, wish I had one 7 years ago!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RfsonLnIJLM
I grabbed one from Amazon, it's on the way.
I just did the same.
This thing has worked great for me. I hated the slide hammer for the same reasons (slippage, inaccurate pull, etc.) Just be careful not to over do it and make a bump instead of the dent you were trying to remove (Don't ask me how I know) :-) This tool has some serious leverage!
Don Jr.
A technique I tried for dealing with the resultant bumps:
Without a stud in the tip, I applied the weld gun for about three seconds, got the bump red hot. Then rap the bump with a hammer while it's still glowing. Ya gotta move fast. It knocks down about half the bump.
When my stud lever comes, I'll put some studs on between the bumps, and see if I can hammer down the bumps, using the stud lever.
I got the stud lever today. Looks as if they really want me to buy a hot glue suction cup kit. ( came with the attachments, but not the cups). I was disappointed to see it was not aluminum, but some type of polymer resin. (Plastic)
So I finagled the deal for renting the lift, and figured out how to get me, tools, and welder along with the steaming turd into town. When I set up, calamity of horror, I was almost out of gas on the welder.
So, I patched up the inner on the passenger quarter. Didn't finish out the final welding on the rear quarters. No pictures, time at a premium - the lift and power was contracted at $30 p/hr. I'll get the bottle refilled, and contract another round. Unless I can get a lift installation.
That eBay listing that Ken posted says pretty clearlyNot being critical, but it's not like they hide what it's made of, and I'd think that a reinforced Nylon is a pretty good choice for the material, given the service it sees.Quote:
A strong reinforced Nylon lever....
Wow! After about a week or two you'll pay the cost of a lift at that rate! Have you really shopped for installation? The guys at BendPak say they'll quote their unit with delivery, and with or without installation. If I spring for one it will likely be the four post with caster kit that can be moved around when unloaded - BendPak HD-7W Four Post Extra-High, Extra-Wide 7,000 Lb. Capacity
Thx for the tip, ill check them out. There are plenty of suppliers for lifts, but most seem to have unavailable contractors for installation. As for a week or two, no. Maybe another hour or two
I obviously didn't read the description on the stud lever. I was expecting a metal tool, that's all.
I sent Bendpak an email, but reading the delivery description isn't promising.
I thought "Free Delivery to the Lower 48" was a pretty good deal, but I haven't read all of the boiler plate. I think that Don (DA34Guy) has had three different ones through the years (due to moves, etc) so he may be able to offer comment based on his experience.
Looks like 'customer is responsible for unloading' and ' some ' trucks have a hydraulic lift gate for 'additional fee'. Looking at the trucks they show in the ad, I'll have to get traffic stopped on the hiway, and those big rigs always end up trying to put their trailer in the ditch. It's a helluva hassle.
In my experience the customer is always responsible for unloading, but you have the choice of having heavy items delivered to their local freight receiver, and then either going to pick it up yourself with pickup or trailer, or having it delivered using a "Tommy Lift" type truck, sometimes for an extra charge. For a four post lift, I would think that having it delivered to their local receiver would be the ticket, as they almost always have several options for loading to your truck/trailer. Of course, then you have to deal with unloading it at home.... I think I would call them and see if they have an option to deliver it to their regional installer, and then for him to bring out all of the pieces/parts when it's time to assemble. I expect you'll pay a little extra for that, but paying for convenience should be expected, right?
The lever works well for the larger studs, but slips horribly with the smaller.
http://rs304.pbsrc.com/albums/nn178/...uf.jpg~320x480
All pulled out, no big bumps
:) ok, try again, first post failed.
My evaluation of the stud lever:
In it's current form, it must be the cat's meow for lighter panels, assuming you can use the heavier studs.
I have a larger size stud which I've not used yet. Obviously if the tool is deforming with the middle strength stud, then it's too light to handle the large studs.
Tool is excellent for the mid range studs. Grabs studs securely, and affords great control in pulling dents. Puts a slide hammer to shame.
I'm interested to see what day has to say about it.
And about this lift situation:
I am not expecting something for free. But as a consumer, I am finding it ( so far ) impossible to simply BUY ONE INSTALLED.
It's all I want, to pick up the phone, and order one.
Installed.
Oh, and without having to coordinate the effort with the local P.D. involved (to block traffic) and having to instruct the driver on the finer points of backing a big rig... would be nice.
Just got a call back from best buy automotive group.
Their subcontractor quotes $1345 to install
Nope.
Glad to hear you had some luck with the stud lever using larger studs. I have only used the larger studs so I did not have any experience with that. Cool about the lift. They are charging $400-$500 to install a lift here in Florida. I have been looking into one for my shop as well. Good luck!
Go to one of the dealer shops in your area and find out who they use-----they will be professional lift people and most likely will have some used ones from shops that have closed and/or have upgraded to something bigger
My guy I deal with always has some and delivered /installed was very reasonable-------look at Rotary-they are USA
Umm, I forgot to look for used stuff.
BUT, I just pulled the trigger on a new lift.
$2251 delivered just up the road. I'll contract a couple of strong backs, and between that and my cherry picker I'll get it set up. I'm fairly certain I can get it in place for under $2700.
It's due for delivery tomorrow.
http://rs304.pbsrc.com/albums/nn178/...da.jpg~320x480
With special thanks to Jill (and her mighty forklift) for receiving it, and to C.C. for his trailer.
It's eight o clock, my back is shot, but it looks like a lift. Tomorrow, rain allowing, I'll get cables and hydraulics installed.
Oh yeah, I didn't have time to hire the strong backs. It was just me and my cherry picker.
You just gained many new friends.
Lol (really)
I hadn't even thought of that.
Well it beats watching star trek all alone.
Yesterday I got the big pieces together.
Today I ran the cables, and assembled the safety stops assembly. Then I hung the power unit and hooked up the hydraulics.
I'll have to borrow a big socket for the hydraulic ram nut.
So, left to do: cut steel plates to sit under the feet to level the unit, adjust the stops, adjust the cables, fill the hydraulics.
Way Cool !!!!
.
Too cool!!
My piece of quarter inch plate turned out to be exactly perfect width to use as shim under the feet. But, it was not long enough to make enough plates to fully level the unit. If that wasn't bad enough, I ran out of O2 for the torch. Gaah, and I still haven't replaced the bottle for the MIG.
Dam, but this is an expense hobby.
I got the bottles swapped, and traded an extra O2 for some plate steel to level up the feet. Today I shot a whole can of Krylon black, touching up all the spots I scuffed it during assembly. I need to cut the shim plates, and make a socket and wrench for the ram nut.
Today the working end of a shovel got my attention. After that, fixing a leak under the guy's trailer. He's a four tour Vietnam vet.