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One fitting needed an additional half turn, to remedy a small leak. Otherwise, no surprises. Except, perhaps, the mud dauber wasp tubes on the headders. Oh, I did get that wrench made, and as for the nut, I coupled an extra half inch drive socket to the nut, using a short spacer cut from some emt.
Today I got a good look at my previous work, and saw a bunch of pin holes, so I fixed that.
Then I tackled the passenger rear quarter. Turns out I didn't get enough overlap for me to weld up the inner and outer panels along the lip. So, I drilled a series of holes and plug welded the two panels together.
The drivers side was a very good fit, and I was easily able to butt weld the entire length, grind pretty, spot weld the pin holes, and grind smooth. Sprayed some Krylon, and undercoat. The rust repair on the rear lower quarters is done.
Also today I broke out the gas axe, and got rid of some old exhaust hangers. Then I repaired the rear frame rails. It looked to me as if a trailer hitch had been attached, and subsequently overloaded, ripping the bolts out. Anyway, I heat and beat the damaged steel back into place. I also used the same technique to repair a couple small puckers in the rear bumper.
Last night, I ordered assorted clip nuts and fender washers. I'll need the nuts for the rear valence panel. Speaking of which, tonight I cleaned it up and dollied out its dings and straightened its brackets.
Amazing what one can see with the car up in the air.
I decided to re-work the pass side running board. Where I used the pull studs, I had little bumps. I heated each one cherry red, and knocked it down with a small ball pein. The area could use a little more attention.
It sounds like you're making great progress! Congrats on getting the hoist up and working too!
Just curious, did you find a used lift locally?
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Working out a wrinkle near body line
I forgot to search for a used one.
Thx on the congrats.
A pitiful little to report for a three-day weekend, but little is better than none. My clip nuts assortment came in, so I remounted the rear pan using some 1/4-20s fender bolts. Then I finished repairing the rear frame rail where the bolts ripped out from trailer hitch. I even did a fair job of overhead welding. My MIG works right nice. Then I grabbed a body hammer and finessed a couple bent pieces which escaped my attention until I was able to look at it on a lift. Next, I want to pressure wash the under carriage, then undercoat.
Natural ceramics, a positive additional addition to the heat wrap.
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Today, I detailed the bottom edges of the sheet metal. I dollied out some wrinkles, removed some trim clip studs, and welded in and ground smooth trim screw holes.
Then, I grabbed the chatter gun and lowered the front end, with the height adjuster screw. Can't wait to test drive it, and see if it handles different.
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Ground out 3/8" bondo, beat it flat, desperately trying to restore the body line
Having driven the steaming turd, the handling actually improved a tad. The front wheels were up on their tip-toes, was part of the squirrelly handling. When I put the rear back where it belongs, it might track.
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A better picture of the ceramic type heat insulation.
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The new stance. Rear springs de-arched
Yes it handles better, yes YOU TOLD ME SO.
I may lower it more, but the exhaust needs to be completely reworked first.
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I hope this doesn't double post.
The new stance. Leaf springs de arched and kept the coil over shocks. After the exhaust is reworked I can ditch the coil overs and it will sit an inch lower.
gotta love mother nature providing that insulation! LOL..
It's a southern thing. (I never had to put up with mud daubers in Idaho).
I knew exactly what they were. We had them in south-central Illinois and I have to knock them down all the time here in the Dallas, TX area. Nasty little beggars, and a pain in the arse.Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
We also have ground hornets which go up to about 2" long. Nasty looking, but relatively harmless.
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We have them here is southern Mass. Same nest too. Here tho they are a bit smaller.
I just never know what direction this car will take me next.
Today found the driver's side header laying in pieces under the car, surrounded by shredded header wrap and Georgia red clay-formed mud dauber tubes.
After much deliberation, I've chosen to sacrifice efficiency for simplicity of design. I've got to dramatically increase ground clearance.
It's not going to flow much better than stock manifolds, but I'll make sure that the plugs and bolts are accessible.
I've heard it many times that header wrap will cause an early failure of the metal tubes. Is that what happened to yours?
1973 DODGE CHARGER Summit Racing® Headers SUM-G9040 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Sometimes ready made might be the right answer... Not sure you can buy the parts this cheap.
I was actually quite pleased with the condition of the tubes. Very little deterioration. The wrap even survived fairly well, I'll reuse it. Seems to me, I have some extra stainless wrap ties somewhere, but in the past, I've used hose clamps. Not as pretty, but they do have the advantage of being able to reposition if needed.
I'm pretty sure it was summit brand headers that I just cut off. Beyond being an abysmal pain to access bolts and plugs, the driver's side actually requires disassembly of the drag link for installation and removal.
Interesting concept, going up and over... Not a new idea, just don't see it done to often..
Driver's side went up, to give the power steering some breathing room. Passenger side going down, to clear the dipstick.
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Driver's side wrapped.
The end piece I got dumpster diving at my buddy's garage. I think it's 2 1/2". The piece running across the top is from a trampoline frame. All the curved pieces are bits from the tubes I cut off. The header wrap was brittle, but I soaked it in a bucket of water, which helped. The soaking also took off most of the mud.
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The passenger side fell victim to some hi temp white. (Boy, this manifold is gonna smoke!
Let us know how it works out. Was this work all to raise the exhaust system higher?
Yes, the collectors hang down quite low, especially the driver's side. I just ordered some 52" patriot glasspacks from Jegs. I'll sandwich them along the driveshaft and it will be clean with lots of clearance.
I promise an honest seat of pants power evaluation when it's done.
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Passenger side wrapped up
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Oodles of clearance
Dear God, it's LOUD
You were expecting?????? What?!?
Ok, I took the turd to a local shop, and I'm totally happy with the pipes they bent up for the back half, but not so much on the placement of the glasspacks. They need to come forward. I feel it's my fault because I saw it in mid process and didn't catch it then. Ah, the joys of being a perfectionist, ill -equipped to the task. I'll get the shop to give up some pieces of tubing bent at 45 deg angle, and re work it.
I promised an honest SOP evaluation, and my first impression was, OMG, I crippled it! But with the open pipes, I couldn't hear what was really up- once the mufflers were on, I could clearly hear and feel the engine wasn't hitting all eight. On a hunch, I checked #6&8, sure enough, t they got swapped.
With the wires straight, a quick test drive showed that the seat of pants, honest evaluation says that the flow isn't as good, but the performance loss is negligible. Sounds good, and a lot quieter.
As long as it sounds good with no loss of power.. it's a winner! roflmao! :LOL:
Well, an admitted marginal loss of power. But quite minimal.
I've got some FelPro gaskets on order, as there is a small leak on both sides. They say you are supposed to be able to reuse copper gaskets, but in my experience, not so much.
I used some of those aluminum collector gaskets.. someone here had recommended them. So far no complaints.