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Jim you can move that damn switch and turn it over for less than $.50 ---you just need a 5/16 coupler for where its at now and plumbthe switch against the proportioning valve--------If you need the $.50 I'll send it to you but it'll take a $.55 stamp!
Or you can spend half a day making a bracket that you(or others) will be skinning your knuckels on every time your down there and the switch will still be upside down and getting hot.
Jerry I take Paypal!:rolleyes::D:LOL:
Guy's Thanks for all the replies. I have been doing a ton of research and I have concluded that hydraulic switches are not the way to go. It's like a 300 to 1 ratio of people that like mechanical switches over hydraulic. So before I get any fluid into this system I'm going to remove both switches and place a mechanical switch at the brake pedal. One brake line cut to length, flared, and installed right into the proportioning valve. no more holes in the frame and no worries about switches over heating. Plus the wires will go right through the fire wall and up into the dash so less wires running along the frame. I am planning on running a relay on this switch as well. Those switches are speedway 60-100psi switches. I have read that the tail lights wont come on till you really hit the brakes (no lights under lite braking). The only question I have is; can I run the transmission (torque converter unlock) and brakes to the same switch or is it asking the switch to do too much? I should also add that wiring isn't my thing (at all). That's why I got a kit. I did wire my 33 coupe and didn't have any trouble for 10+ years. I must have done something right. That was a kit too.
I'm thinking I may have to run 2 switches. One N/O & one N/C.
Jim, if you can find a Single Pole, Double Throw (SPDT) brake lite switch it has one NO and one NC contact with a common power source. OR even better, get a standard SPST brake lite switch, but power a SPDT Relay that gives you both a NO and NC output. No worries with over loading the switch, and you get both circuits covered with one device.Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG-JIM
PS, I agree on the mechanical switch idea. My '33 has the pressure switch and I learned that the switch had failed when I nearly got hit from behind in fast traffic one afternoon... The '32 project has a mechanical switch from Speedway, feeding brite LED tail/brake lights.
You have a diagram for dummies? Showing this?Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimages/relaytextA2.gif
Jim,
The picture above shows the pins of a SPDT relay which fits into a base that has a wire out for each of the pins. Pin 30 gets your common 12V hot wire which will power the two circuits; Pin 87 will be your 12V+ to your brake lights; Pin 87a is the 12V+ to your lock up converter; Pin 85 goes to ground; and Pin 86 is your 12V+ switched control wire from your mechanical brake light switch which gets it's power from your fuse block "Brake Lights" wire. Wire that fused supply to one side of your brake light switch, then take the piece you cut off of that wire and hook it from the opposite side of the switch running to Pin 86.
Here's a link to The 12Volt, which is an excellent source of understanding basic direct current circuits.
Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT), Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Automotive Relays
Hope that helps.
Okay Roger, First off yes it helps "A LOT". So you have seen my build thread and we were discussing how I just seem to "have things" when ever I need them? Well here we go again. It's 3AM I'm looking at your relay picture and I say to myself "I wonder if those are the same as the ones I have on my shelf"? I make a low buck version of the painless PN 60122 for fuel injected cars and I have no less than 14 on my shelf. Sure enough BINGO! AND....I needed 2 couplers to remove the switches from the lines as Jerry suggested. Sure enough in my brass fitting drawer there they are. On the flip side; I know I have at least 2 of those mechanical lever activated switches but god only knows where they are. I was able to take the T's out and just take some of the bend out of the line to make it longer and I had to flip the center line around so that the clamp holding it to the frame would still work. All in all pretty darn easy (even for me). Now...where to mount that switch? Hmmm.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Use the mechanical switch you'll find tomorrowQuote:
Originally Posted by BIG-JIM
FWIW, many of the relays have a spike protection diode across the coil. In that case the the ground will hook up at the strip end (cathode) and the 12 volt lead will hook up at other end (anode).
The link (the 12 volt) that Roger provided is an excellent source for information to help in understanding how diodes, relays, ect. work.
Careful
The diode will always be installed in the relay with the stripe on the diode body facing towards terminal 86 (reverse biased) and it is important that +12V is connected this terminal, not 85 (as per the DIN standard) or the diode could be damaged.
Jim,
I'm going to throw in one more detail, just in case one of your buddies mentions it and makes you doubt the "right" way to wire the circuit. I said above,which describes the "switched positive" approach. Some will say that they prefer to place the control switch in the ground side (switched negative), which is just fine too. In that case you'd wire your "Brake Lights" wire coming from the fuse block to Pin 86 to power the coil, and then connect a wire to Pin 85 running to one side of your mechanical switch, and from the other side of the mechanical switch run the wire to your ground source. Either way completes the circuit, giving you 12V through the relay coil, which activates the relay each time your NO switch closes.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Hope that's not a confusion factor.
Further to be less confusing;
Unless you're using modern computer motor management controls, the spike diode is normally not needed.
Just be aware if your relay has the diode already connected across pins 86 & 85, the power polarity (+/-) is sensitive. However, reversing the polarity on a relay equipped with a diode will only damage the diode not the relay, makes a nice pop and blows the diode apart (eye protection required), the relay will still function with a damaged diode (just won't have spike protection). If you damage the diode you can replace it if it's needed, or remove it completely if it's not needed (just clip the leads to it).
As I have said before electricity mystifies me. Simple I'm okay with. I've done some basic house wiring (plugs and light switches, GFI's, ceiling fans, light fixtures) but I couldn't wire in a 3 way switch in my hallway to save my life. I just couldn't wrap my head around it. So for me to say I GOT IT TO WORK!!!! Is a big deal to me. I grabbed a board, some 12V light bulbs and sockets (1157), and my relay and headed down to my garage. I screwed everything down and with my crude diagram, wired it all up. I touched the negative and then the positive and the light representing the brake lights came on. Then I pulled the brake switch up (like my foot is now off the brakes) and the light representing the torque converter came on. I know to most guy's it's no big deal but for me, Oh yea! I kinda felt like I was back in school in the electrical lab.
Just not sure on a couple of things. I know I need fuses but I'm not sure where and what size. And I'm not sure where the power to the brake switch comes from. Anyone want to add to my crude diagram?
https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...56&oe=56B2CD9B