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Great Job! Always nice when it "all comes together".. so to speak...
The fuse(s).. there should be a fuse at the fuse panel that feeds to the brake light switch, and your drawing shows a fuse at the bottom of the relay, so you should be fine with that.
12 volt power to brake switch comes from relay terminal 30.,
Jim, to put it another way, the fuse and the wire marked "Brake Lights" from your new fuse block are sized to handle the load of the brake light circuit, so that 12V source will power both needs in your circuit. In this case the relay is serving two purposes, 1) to give you both a NO and NC contact to use for your two different needs (brake lights and drop out the lock up converter); and 2) to reduce the current draw through your mechanical brake light switch, which means it should last for a long, long time - the relay is carrying the load of the bulbs in the tail lights going on/off, on/off. Run the Brake Light wire to one pole of your mechanical switch (or to Pin 30) and save the piece you cut off. From that same terminal on your switch (or Pin 30), jumper up to Pin 30 on the relay (or to your switch). From the other side of the mechanical switch use a piece of that wire to connect to Pin 86, which now gives you power to the devices.
The relay has power all the time, as does your switch, so any time you hit the brake the lights will come on. The lockup converter circuit will be powered all the time through the NC relay contact, but there's another contact in that circuit to lock the converter as you get up to speed, or else you have a manual toggle switch to lock it when you reach cruise? That keeps the lockup clutch from sitting "hot" all the time.
I've got the B&M lock up control, it allows you to adjust lockup rpm or defeat function. I highly recommend it.
So roger, if I'm reading it correctly I just run the power from my brake light circuit to both the 30 pin and the terminal on the brake switch? And there is a vacuum switch as well on the torque converter lockup running constant vacuum. I hope I have enough vacuum to run that switch, the booster, vacuum advance, and the PCV valve. I don't have a radical cam so I should be okay.
https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...15&oe=56B40A55
https://www.facebook.com/meridith.pe...8199144124484/Yup that worked too. Now on to the rear signal light circuit. Somehow I don't think I will be as successful at this one.
The link didn't work for me, probably your settings on FB limiting access, but glad to know it worked for you! Rear turn signals should be pretty easy if your wiring harness included the plug to the steering column. It's all done, just hook up the wires out of the fuse block and be sure of your grounds out back.
I'll have to youtube it then. The tail lights should be fun. Again it should be straight forward but it wont be because I added the second set of signals in the center that I want to use as just signals. I don't want them to come on as running lights or as brake lights. If there is a way I will find it just takes time...sigh.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I think you'll be OK. The turn signal flashes the brake light filament/LED, so if you simply wire the center lights into the circuit in parallel with the side lights they should flash with the outers, but not be lit when the tail light filament is lit on the outers. Kind of like a third brake light, for turns....Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG-JIM
I think I got it. Please correct me if I'm wrong. In the simplest of terms the tail lights are usually run through the headlight switch then the signal switch (flasher) makes them blink where as these inner signals will be run directly to the signal switch bypassing the headlight switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
If I understand you correctly, you have a seperate center type light you want to come on with turn signals, but not come on with the brakes?Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG-JIM
It is a little more complicated as the brake filament is what is controlled by the turn signal circuit. Essentially the brake circuit is interrupted by the turn signal switch sending the desired side through a flasher to blink the brake filament. There were some turn switches designed to do this, not sure if they are available for your column (or at all anymore). However, a electronic circuit could be designed to do this with your existing switches.
36 sedan, correct me if I'm wrong, but if I have a functioning tail & brake light circuit (think 1157 bulbs, one filament tail, one filament brake), and I take a pair of single filament bulbs (1156 style) and wire them in parallel with my existing L & R brake light filaments won't the single filaments light with the brakes, but not the tail lights? I think that's what Jim is talking about, a two piece center light that acts with both brake & turns, one side flashing with turns, both sides with brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
Now maybe I misunderstood and it's a single bulb in the center light. If so, then it's gonna be a bit more of an issue, and there's gonna be some "interesting" circuitry involved (or re-working the light to have two bulbs, which would be my approach....).
Don't forget the hazard circuit
Repears, I may have confused what he's saying and why I'm asking him to clarify. If it is as you say, you are correct nothing more is needed. But I understand him as wanting the outer and center lights to only work with signals, and the brakes be only outer lights (no center).