P6T Chevy van fuel pump

Does anyone have experience with a 1990 Chevrolet P6T van electric fuel pump?

This van has an electric pump in the tank and a mechanical pump on the block. The mechanical pump has a fuel return line which makes me think it's supposed to have both.

No voltage to the tank pump. The fuse block has a 10A fuse labeled tank f/p which is hot.

Also the sending unit doesn't work. I tried some contact cleaner on the wiper arm, no help. It shows open regardless of position.

Having trouble finding parts. I haven't put juice to the pump yet, I was going to replace it as a unit.

Comments and suggestions?

Y'all are going to join me in a Homer Simpson forehead slap - DOH! when I tell you what I figured out on the fuel pump: of course it isn't getting juice, the engine isn't running! The pump heavily resembles that from my 73 vega, and a vega sends voltage during crank and when oil pressure switch is made. So, I checked for voltage while cranking and yes! It's on a relay. So, I'm ordering a vega pump, as the old one is dead.

As for the sending unit, I carefully disassembled it and cleaned contacts with 100 grit sand paper, and it looks like it's going to work.

glad we could help ..

Just bouncing stuff off y'all is helpful, or at least therapudic.
It's a bit surprising, but the fuel pump is absolutely the same as a 74 Vega. Unfortunately, it didn't come with a sock, so more delay while I order one.

I'm only saving about $20 with having to buy the pump and screen. I'm beginning to wish I had just got the whole assembly.

That sounds like my kind of luck too. Haha

This one's fighting me.

Got the tank back in, but it still won't run.

I'll dig in deeper tomorrow.

But, the good news is that the fuel guage works, so does the oil gauge.

You posted that you ordered a VEGA pump-----------your vega was carb or FI? what is the van-carb or FI? if you are trying to run a FI engine on a carb pump pressure it won't work-------Try starting the engine by spraying starting fluid into intake--hell, I've done it with my mother in laws hair spray while down in the Ga mountains-----------

74 Vega has a low pressure in-tank fuel pump, feeding a Holley 2bbl.

This van has the same low pressure pump in the tank, feeding a mechanical pump with a return line.

The engine runs fine if i pour gas in the carb.

I should have bench tested the assembly before installing it in the tank.

The pump for a carb will not work for fuel injection------check your pressure------

OK, got back on it today. I broke loose the line at the carb, splashed some gas down the bore and cranked it. I got good strong spurts from the fuel line, so fuel is getting to carb fine.

I shut it down, tightened the line, and restarted while shining a light into the carb. Only the front left bore is getting fuel. It's almost enough to maintain idle. Looks like the carb needs rebuilt. No surprise there. It would have been a small miracle if it didn't, after sitting for years.

ok, now we know the engine has a carb-------is it a 2 barrel Holley?

It's a 427 with a 4bbl.

What brand/number carb?

It's a holley. Don't have it off yet, to get #s.

There is still a shop in Columbus that does carbs, I was going to let them build it.

There are sure a lot of vac lines on this thing.

Got a tip for how to keep track of them?

If the decal showing the layout is gone from the front radiator support.. I've used colored electrical tape before. a short piece on the hose and a short piece where it needs to return to.
easiest and a reasonable place to get the tapes is at home cheapo..

so its been sitting for a while??

There is a bronse filter in the inlet to some Holleys--also only 4 screws holding float bowl on to get to jets and /or metering plate. Top of carb gets a build up of crud over some metering holes that MOST be clean-------

A holley carb is the easiest one to rebuild-get a gasket kit that will have meter plate gaskets and accel pump and a can of carb cleaner spray to spay into the holes -------

That would be the smart route, thx for talking me into it. Those carb builders' rates are really going through the roof.

I got the carb off, marked the hoses with tape and made a diagram.

This hobby is really time vs money. I'm thinking to spring for someone else to build it. I dunno.

I took the lazy route, and dropped it off for rebuild.
It looks great and runs perfect. Further tinkering revealed a bad vacuum advance and alternator. I don't know if the external regulator is bad or not.

The radiator looks questionable, but doesn't seem to leak, so i'll drain it down and add antifreeze: I filled it with straight water for testing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Try starting the engine by spraying starting fluid into intake--hell, I've done it with my mother in laws hair spray while down in the Ga mountains.

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You just can't keep a good hot rodder down......

.

OK I need help.

Someone has done a conversion on the alternator. It's a Ford, I'm sure, as it is a Ford external voltage regulator, and it favors a Ford alternator, but it has two output terminals, bridged together. I suppose some pics would help. I'll try to post some, but three parts stores had no luck matching it up.

Just because it is a Ford external regulator, doesn't mean it is a Ford alternator. I use Ford external regulators all the time on Dodge denso style alternators. I've even used one on a GM non internal reg alt.

for the money and time I would jut buy a one wire alt. and be done with it

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...psadnjmhpy.jpg

OK, the case was an exact match to a ford, but THIS alternator has two output terminals.

Does that van have ( or did it have) a reefer on /in it?

No reefer, and most of the stuff it needed the heavy duty power for is gone. I'd like to leave it set up with the heavy alternator if possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by firebird77clone

No reefer, and most of the stuff it needed the heavy duty power for is gone. I'd like to leave it set up with the heavy alternator if possible.

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y?

I did one like that a while back... choose any word that sounds like expensive... you'll be right!

Do you have a rebuild shop close by? Maybe they can test the internals and get you out of it cheaper??

That thing is goofy looking, that's all I got :HMMM:

See next post. My phone got dropped today: this post turned to gobbledygook.

I heartily recommend Seldon auto electric of Columbus. He took one look at it, told me it's a high output ford with external regulator, "When do you want it?"

That's the way to go! Did he say pricing? I don't remember what I paid but I was unhappy.. I gave it to the customer at my cost 'cause it cost that much. And I didn't want to hear the whining! LOL..

He didn't say. The stock alternator priced at $130 so hopefully it will be less than that. One of the parts stores tested it and it showed bad, but since they didn't know what it was, who knows if they tested it correctly. I do know it was noisy, so bad bearings at least.

Still waiting on the starter, so I tightened up the bolts on the gas tank (it was just hanging loose until I was sure the electric pump and fuel sending unit was good), and I readjusted the hydraulic lift ramp. It really needs another link removed from the 50 series chain and a half link installed, but as I don't have a half link, I utilized the threaded adjustment rods to level up the gate.

Still gotta add antifreeze, but it's getting closer.

Today I buttoned up the tail pan (it holds the rear lights and covers the hydraulics) and repaired the fold-out step on the front door. The step assembly was held in with carriage bolts. I managed to only destroy one. Old rusty carriage bolts are always such a chore. My favorite way to deal with them is to drill through the head (thus removing the head without damaging what it's going through, usually a bumper) and throw it away. But today, I applied heat and penetrating oil, and it wasn't too bad.

Sticker shock!

The alternator rebuild cost $250.

It will be a good selling point though.

I picked up the alternator.

It is a stock 220A unit, and he says it will push 260A now. I'll run it with the bridge open, off of one output terminal. That will half the power output so that it won't fry the battery.