Exhaust header outlet to reducer gaskets.

[Henry Rifle]

I searched for a discussion/advice, but found nothing. What type of gaskets should I use for them? I use Earls on the exhaust ports, but they're pretty fragile for use on the header outlet. The headers are Sanderson D-port shorties.

BTW, I know that Sanderson recommends copper for outlet to exhaust reducer. I believe I just used standard Fel-Pro gaskets on the outlets before.

Thoughts?

[firebird77clone]

They always seem to come loose. Copper or aluminum at least won't have a catastrophic fail IE blow out. The V bands seem to get good review, I haven't used them.

[Mike P]

Jack I've done a couple of different things over the years. I;m sold on the solid copper gaskets. A little pricey compared to the paper gaskets, but I've never had to replace a pair.

The other is to use a ball and socket joint and eliminate the gasket all together. I'm not sure if you'd have room for them with the shorties or if they are the cast (which wouldn't work or tube type which would require a bit of cutting and welding.

The other thing I do if possible is to use longer studs/bolts on the flange so I can double nut them.


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[34_40]

I was to impatient to wait for the copper ones to arrive and my local speedshop had the aluminum.. they've worked great too!
And I'm pretty sure Uncle Bob gave them an endorsement as well, so I tried'em.

[Henry Rifle]

Jack I've done a couple of different things over the years. I;m sold on the solid copper gaskets. A little pricey compared to the paper gaskets, but I've never had to replace a pair.

The other is to use a ball and socket joint and eliminate the gasket all together. I'm not sure if you'd have room for them with the shorties or if they are the cast (which wouldn't work or tube type which would require a bit of cutting and welding.

The other thing I do if possible is to use longer studs/bolts on the flange so I can double nut them.

Mike, the exhaust pipes are already made up. I'm just doing maintenance. I dropped a microfiber towel on an hot header, and had to pull it and have it recoated.

[Henry Rifle]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Second question: I've seen exhaust header torque specs for Fast Burn (like ZZ-4) heads of 11 ft-lbs on the first pass then 18 ft-lbs on the second pass. That seems high to me. (BTW, I have chased the threads, and always use anti-seize.)

[Jematt]

Use stage 8 fasteners they are awesome . most problems with gaskets are bolts coming loose

[Henry Rifle]

Use stage 8 fasteners they are awesome . most problems with gaskets are bolts coming loose

I'm OK with the bolts I have. I've never had the bolts come loose with Earl's headers. I'm just concerned about the torque setting of the 3/8" bolts in aluminum heads.

[firebird77clone]

I just use a quarter inch ratchet and put them tight as I can, with one hand.

[34_40]

What did you torque them to in the past?
a 3/8" fastener I would've assumed to be in the 30 to 35 ft lb range, so the values you posted seem low to me.

[Henry Rifle]

What did you torque them to in the past?
a 3/8" fastener I would've assumed to be in the 30 to 35 ft lb range, so the values you posted seem low to me.

I don't remember. It's been quite a while ago. However, the heads are aluminum, and 30-35 seems more than a bit high. I found another recommendation, this one from the GM Performance Center that says 11 ft-lbs on the first pass then 18 ft-lbs on the second pass for ZZ4 and similar aluminum heads.

[34_40]

Sounds like you have the answer.. 11 to 18 just "feels" light to me. but it comes from the OEM so they know what they're talking about (usually LOL)..

[Matthyj]

I vote for remflex gaskets, not cheap but help with warped flanges and since the squish they act like a lock washrr sonewhat