Need help getting a new engine

Hello all, as some of you might know from my previous post, my 305 sbc just recently died. Ever since I bought the car back in May I wanted to eventually upgrade to a more powerful motor, I just wasn't expecting having to do it this soon. I would like to purchase a long block crate engine, preferably a SBC rated between 300-400HP as I already have parts I can use for it (TH350 Transmission, water pump, intake manifold etc) However, I'm on a low budget and I have never had to replace an engine before, therefore I could use some guidance on how to go about doing the swap and finding a shop and what to do with the old engine etc. Thanks in advance for your inputs.

A trashed 305 is scrap metal.

Any shop you choose, plan on the estimate being 30% low and the time estimate 50% low.

wellllllllllllllll-------------if you are on a budget, You should at least follow this no cost path for a ways---------take the damn thing apart and see what caused the problem and what the damage is----if the pistons and lower end are ok you will just be looking at the top end and it could maybe be reasonably repaired---by repaired, I don't mean a 400 hp at 7500 rpm package, but a reasonable, driveable , runs on regular gas package that lets you enjoy the car.Ann that path will let you use your trans, water pump, manifold, exhaust system, etc, etc, etc

As Jerry said, fixing what you have (if possible) will be the cheapest.

I can tell you that rebuilding a 305 is going to cost as much (or maybe more) than a 350. The work is the same, only the parts costs will be different.

You could try to find a good running take out at a salvage yard. Good SBC's are still out there, but are getting rarer by the day. If you choose to go that way, be aware that there are some subtle differences in small blocks over the years. Come back here and ask questions about what you locate and we can help you determine if it will interchange.

You said your budget was low, but didn't say how low. The easy way out is a crate engine. The base 350 GM engine is less than $2000 delivered. You probably won't see 300 HP, but it would be a good upgrade for your 305. It also has the advantage of being available now. Firebird is right about many shops being slow to get you work done. Price wise, by the time you get an engine bored, the crank turned and the heads done, you will be shocked how close you are to the price of the crate engine.

GM base crate:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...81432/10002/-1

If I was going for a GM crate engine, I would go with the L31 Vortec. It will cost more, but it has several advantages over the base engine. Vortec heads and a roller cam are the 2 most important. You would need a Vortec intake and special Melonized distributor gear for that engine.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...30283/10002/-1

Summit Racing also has these engines, but the links wouldn't work right. You might be able to find them a little cheaper around Christmas.

And I'm hoping to be able to swap the parts from my 305 to the crate engine

When I say I'm on a low budget I mean I can't afford an engine that's 4k or above. With that said, this is what I had in mind:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Eng...12CT1/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Eng...30CT1/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/HP94/10002/-1

I guess my main concern is how much I'll have to pay a shop to do the swap as I'm not able to do it myself due to where I live.

Thanks again for all your feedback and please keep'em coming!

The ultimate budget resolution is time.

Buy a complete car with maybe collision damage, or bad trans, something that really knocks the price down.

Keep the motor and part out the rest. You might even make $

Of the engines you listed, I would pick the ATK 383 with the roller cam. Regardless of which engine you pick, definitely try to go with a roller cam. There is too much of a chance for issues with flat tappets. Just my opinion, of course, but why take a chance if a proven fix is out there. If you're willing to spend several thousand dollars, are you willing to gamble?

Finding a good shop that is willing to do the swap might be a problem. I doubt you will find a busy repair shop that will take on something as non-standard as a street rod. Too many variables from their standpoint. If you do find a shop, make sure that they absolutely agree that your job will get as much attention as their normal work. I say this from hearing so many stories about bad experiences with body shops. They have their bread and butter work and "old car" stuff gets pushed into the back of the shop where it sits sometimes for months before it gets done or the owner gets pissed and moves it to another shop.

Go to some local car shows and talk to as many people as you can. A local club can be a big help. You may find someone willing to help you out. Any local gathering of folks with cars similar to yours may be a source of info.

Another suggestion would be to rent a storage room large enough to do the job. Engine hoists can also be rented. Depending on your mechanical ability (be honest with yourself), you may be able to do this yourself.

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Originally Posted by Hotrod46

Go to some local car shows and talk to as many people as you can. A local club can be a big help. You may find someone willing to help you out. Any local gathering of folks with cars similar to yours may be a source of info.

Another suggestion would be to rent a storage room large enough to do the job. Engine hoists can also be rented. Depending on your mechanical ability (be honest with yourself), you may be able to do this yourself.

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Definitely a good idea to to talk to some the local car clubs. If it were up to be I would do the job myself but I don't have the space to do so and I think renting a storage could get too expensive. Another thing I need to consider is winter weather here in New England.

You're not to far from me. I like to take on a winter job. We could talk about it anyway.. pm me

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Originally Posted by 34_40

You're not to far from me. I like to take on a winter job. We could talk about it anyway.. pm me

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PM sent.........

I think I'm going to go with this engine: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp38313ct1


Anything I should know about swamping the parts from my 305 to this engine? here's the parts that I have on my 305 that I'm hoping to be able to re-use with this engine:


Edelbrock Performer intake manifold
Edelbrok 1405 (600 CFM) carburator
HEI distributor
Long water pump
mechanical fuel pump
TH350 transmission
They're both small block chevy engines so I don't see why there might be a problem reusing those parts, besides maybe the 600 cfm carb..

I had a 383 in my 46 coupe for a few years. I can tell you that it will be light years ahead of that old 305 you have now. Fat fender Ford's are heavy old cars and the low end grunt of that baby big block will get the old girl moving PDQ.

The only downside is that all that torque WILL eventually find the weakest link in your drive train if you hammer on it.

That engine you picked will need a 400 style harmonic balancer. The 305 balancer won't work. You also need a flex plate for a 1-piece rear main crank.

Also, the HEI you have will most likely work, but it may need a gear replacement depending on what cam was used. Use the wrong type of gear and you will have rapid cam and gear wear, filling the engine with metal. It may not have the best advance curve either.

That engine would have been tested and rated with a specific combination of parts. Any changes will most likely cost you power. I would call Blueprint Engines or Summit Tech to find out exactly what combo is recommended.

Summit does say that it needs 750 cfm carb. The RPM manifold is good. resist any urge to go with an Air Gap style intake unless you plan to track the car. On the street, the regular RPM will give you better across the board street manners.

All of this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it. Ask someone else and you will most likely get different answers.

Good luck.

Ok, so I've narrowed it down to these 2 engines..which would you pick and why?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpe-hp94m

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp38313ct1

I'm leaning towards the ATK engine because it comes with the intake, distributor, water pump,harmonic balancer and a flex plate for only $150 more than the Blueprint engine, but it has a few less HP and 9.7:1 Compression vs 10.0:1 on the Blueprint..

The 2 engines are pretty much a toss up as far as specs go. You will have so much more power with either one that I doubt you could tell the difference. The cam in the ATK will probably have a slightly broader power band due to the wider lobe seperation, but there again, it's really not going to matter that much. I like the higher compression on the Blueprint engine.

If the warranties are close, I would go with the most complete engine. On ATK's website, they go into a little better detail about what is actually used to build the engine.

The ATK will save you from having to source the correct parts to complete the install and will help eliminate hassles if something goes wrong. For instance, if the intake leaks, it's on ATK. They can't say you installed it wrong. Same with the distributor.

Both companies are "name brands", but that just means they advertise. Doesn't mean anything about quality. I personally have never had any dealings with either one.

Denny pretty much answered your question. I actually had this reply typed up earlier, but forgot to post it until I came in for lunch.

I would love to chime in, but all I get from your links is some BS about vigilink.
Let me warn you about the flexplate. Most everybody is using flexplates from an offshore source (read China) and the thin material will not hold up. Buy an SFI certified flexplate that was meant for drag racing (SFI 29.1) and sidestep the problem.
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Thank you Denny.
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I probably should add this as well. You didn't say what your rear gears were in the initial post. Both of the engines you listed will be happiest with at least a 3.5 rear gear. More would be better. 3.73 or higher would be a good choice depending on tire diameter.

That's the problem with increasing cam duration. Contact ATK to find out what cruise RPM's at 60 MPH they recommend. I'm going to guess around 2500.

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Originally Posted by Hotrod46

I probably should add this as well. You didn't say what your rear gears were in the initial post. Both of the engines you listed will be happiest with at least a 3.5 rear gear. More would be better. 3.73 or higher would be a good choice depending on tire diameter.

That's the problem with increasing cam duration. Contact ATK to find out what cruise RPM's at 60 MPH they recommend. I'm going to guess around 2500.

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I'm not sure about the gear ratio, I think they might be 3.23s if I remember correctly

Without the correct gearing, you will not get the benefit of all that advertised HP. If the engine is forced to lug around at low RPM, you will be worse off than with a stock engine. It will feel very sluggish and fuel economy will be terrible. ATK also recommends a higher stall converter than stock. If you don't want to change the gears and converter, you would be better off with a milder engine.

Depending on your tire size, you might get by with the 3.23's. The cams in both engines are for building power and torque in the midrange to high RPM's. The cam I had in my 383 was milder than the one in the ATK and I barely got by with 3.23's. The 383 is good at making torque, but the cam still programs the power characteristics of the engine.

Sorry if this sets you back, but you need all the info before spending all your hard earned cash.