I'd like to know what each of you are working on....did you change the suspension, what engine are you using/paint/ac unit/brakes/gas tank?....Etc Do you need help w/anything? Don
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I'd like to know what each of you are working on....did you change the suspension, what engine are you using/paint/ac unit/brakes/gas tank?....Etc Do you need help w/anything? Don
Don
I'm working on my 64 Fairlane two door post. It has the narrow side trim unlike a 500.
So far I've replaced all the springs and bushings and converted the front to Granada Disc. Cut out and replaced all the rot in the floorboards with new sheet and welded in subframe connectors.
It's still in the original black paint but I am cutting out and replacing a few warts and lesions. Serious body work is a ways off yet and it will still be black.
I took the original 6cyl radiator and had it recored with three rows as well as moving the bottom nozzle to the driver side. It has a generic 87 up 5.0 roller cam engine with requisite tweaks. The engine came with EFI on it but I don't like the way it looks nor did I have the $$ to get the wiring and other goodies to make it work. It has Explorer heads with gasket match in and out with bowl and chamber work with much porting of the exhaust side. It exhausts into HiPo K-Code cast manifolds with 2.25" tubing and Flowmasters.
There is an RPM intake with a 600 Ed carb and Mallory mech adv dist. MSD 6A and Taylor wires. Crane roller rockers and an 88 HO roller cam. I did have to freehand the valve reliefs in the cast flat-top slugs for insurance.
Transmission is an 89 Tbird AOD with a TransGo kit and it's shifted off the original column quadrant.
Presently I am working on building a nine inch rear for the 4.11 gears I just picked up (cheap). Just had a guy over today and proposed to swap him my old drill press/milling machine for a drill press and a posi nine. We'll both benefit.
Also working on where to hide the cd player. Either behind the ashtray or hinge the original radio face/bezel for access. I am going to pick up an extra set of interior windshield trim to modify for tweeter placement then heat and vacuum form some stock kick panels for some mid to bass drivers. Can't quite decide whether to fab a three guage cluster for the driver side post or make a pod to mount them in the center of the dash above the radio and heater controls. I reckon I'll throw the first few tries away.
Other than maintaining the family fleet, not much going on here.
Craig
Don,
I'm presently building a 53 Studebaker Starliner Cpe.
Chassis:
Re-enforced frame with Fatman MII front clip, power rack, 1" sway bar, disc brakes. I've installed a 78 baby Lincoln 9" rear end/disc brakes with Art Morrison ladder bar/coil over suspension. New 67 Mustang fuel tank with electric fuel pump and return fuel lines for fuel injection.
Engine:
350 crate roller engine, Vortec heads, not decided which fuel injection to use yet. I've set the engine back in the chassis 8" and lowered it down 3". The water pump pulley sets just behind the front spindle line. Built 400TH with 2500 stall. Just in the process of building the mount for the power steering unit. With the engine lowered into the chassis and set back, I need to mount it in backwards and run it off the back side of the surpentine belt. It will be mounted to the front engine plate. Howe 24"x31" aluminum radiator, 18" Spal electric fan and shroud.
Body:
53 Studebaker Starliner Cpe. 3" chop on front post 1 1/2" chop on rear pillars. Nash wagon scalloped roof insert. Fabricated the firewall to make up the room for the engine setback. Vintage Air GenII air conditioning. Polished compressor, Zoops polished mounts, stainless braided hoses. Billet Specialties tilt column and half wrap wheel. Much misc. Lokar pieces. Autometer guages. 88 T-bird power buckets. Paint will be a PPG pearl base coat/clear coat. 17" and 18" Torgue Thrust II wheels with rubber band tires. Well, not really 45 series front, 50 series back.
I have a few pics up here in the Member Galleries.
Dean
Still earnin cash LOL
Just stated on my project. '41 Ford tudor sedan. The interior is now completely torn out, trunk, hood, doors and all the glass are now out.
My plans:
1. Frame: front: Mustang II by fatman (might go with fatman split axle). rear: 4 link
2. 302 or 351 Ford crate motor, with aod tranny.
3. Paint. unsure at this point. I just want to keep it real simple, and dark. Maybe flat black or suede.
4. Interior: no leather or vinyl. more modern, buckets etc. Good stereo of course.
That's the basic outline, and of course, as thing go along, there will be some changes.
I wish I wasn't working on anything, but.....I just can't catch any breaks with my engine. Pulling it the last time dented a piece of aluminum I slaved on last year, so I guess I have to redo that too. :(
I need a good year or two where nothing goes wrong, and I can look at a project in a more positive light. :)
Test....Thanks to Bob & others I have uploaded a picture....yea!!
This is a car I found when I was working on my 1931 4dr s/w. I put the Model A on the back burner untill I finish my English rice burner.
It's sitting on a highly modified El Cami o frame....Global West control arms/12" discs/9" Ford rear/360 crate/700r4/flaming river column/8 hide interior/burled walnut redone/ss gas tank/all wiring re-done to GM color code.........Don
Ps - notice how I put a car likt in a std ht garage---Just made a cat ceiling
Lookin' good Don.
BTW since it's British, I think it would be more appropriate to call it a crumpet cruncher.:D
I'm currently finishing my 62 belair 2dr post. It was a 6cyl auto with 52,000 miles on it from kentucky still had original paint black with white top blue int. I'm doing a frame off resto rod car now has a 60 over 454 9.5 to 1 pump gas motor turbo 400 trans fatman 2 inch lower spindels disc front brakes 9 inch ford rear with 373 posi.the car has heater delete and radio delete. Stock inside and out except all black outside. So far the chassis is all done bottom of body is painted with the body back on and engine trans installed. I'm preping it final paint now. john
I've been working on an 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton pick-up for a little over a year now.I bought the truck as pretty much just a shell but have since added a 9'' rear, 4.3l v-6 with a 700r4 and a rebuilt front axle with mono leaf springs that lowered it about 6'' with camaro hubs and big baer breaks.
The body work is mostly complete now and I'm starting to wire the fuel injected engine and get it running so that I can strip the whole truck and paint it.
I'm having a huge problem getting the steering sorted out though, not much room for a box and rack and pinion steering isn't for me.I have looked at all the magazines for a solution with no luck and have tried the internet bulletin bourds too.There doesn't seem to be any real hotrodders on the www as everyones solution is to ditch the straight axle and go with a mII setup.
If anyone out there has any ideas throw them at me,I'd love to hear them,
Thanks, Rob
Topdeck, I've seen the Pontiac Grand Am rack system adapted to older stock front suspensions. It mounts to the backside of the axle and is frame mounted. There is a little information about it at this site:http://home.houston.rr.com/baker53/
topdek,
The old standby, the Vega box, is about as compact as there is. You may have to cut into the frame side rail to "sink" it in (or out depending on how you look at it). Just make sure you box in the relief cut with metal of comparable thickness to that cut out. There's a lot of leverage at work around the steering box. Some gussets may also be needed depending on how deep you have to relieve.
Right now i am doing a 67 ford F100. its sitting in my shop down to the frame. i am about to throw disk breaks on the front end and then do a full 2 inch drop on it. for drive train i am getting a 390 built for it. i got the build sheet back for it the other day and it'll be around the 400 hp. so nothing to crazy. behind that i have a C6 that i am getting a buddy to go through and check it out for anything wrong with it. ive got a 9 inch rear end to finish it off. the body is going to be half stock on it. no chop or anything planed quite yet. i am going to put a cowl hood on it and a phantom grille. on the back end i am going to flaten out the tail gate and do somthing with the tail lights. put a roll pan on to clean it up a bit. then finish it off with a set of 4 inch megaphones. for rims im planing on having just some american racing 20 inchers on it. i know that this doesnt seem to great to some of you guys out there that are big into the industry. but this is going to be my first vehicle as i am only 15 years of age. so i figure that this was the only way to do it and im hoping that it will be a good daily driver. Kris
I'm another one of those "old timers" wanting to get back to the "happy days" by going street rodding. So,of course,I need a car that says "Hot Rod" Like I remember from the 50's. I found one that fit the style about a year and a half ago,and have been doin' the three R's...Repair...Rebuild...Restore....and make some improvments. The only trouble is....the last time I worked as a mechanic was 40 yrs ago for Uncle Sam. I've been a Mill Rat(factory worker to you young'uns)since then.Although I have built a few Harley choppers.(Haven't we all?) Anyhow......My car is a '27 ford T...2 door sedan...chopped 6"....channeled 4"...and shortened 10". The engine is the chevy 350,(which is all over my gagage floor right now) Trans is a Rossler 350. The car was originally built by Buddy Fares of Youngstown Oh. I was able to make enough repairs to be able to drive it for a summer, but I'll be in the garage till spring working on it again.
Don, I am working on a 42 fodor. The car is in pretty good shape. I've finished an 88 S-10 109" wheelbased streched to 114" to set the Ford on. This way I have front disc brakes, coil springs, power steering and the 10 bolt rear end with traditional leaf springs. I have it set up for a sb 350 and TH 350. But, last week I was able to get the flat head running after sitting 35 years. I am very tempted to use it and not worry about the horsepower of a SB.
Bando - I'm hearing a lot of people thinking about using the S-10 frame under a fat car. The S-10 frame kicks up where the bed is supported - what do you do about this kick up? I also am working on a 4 dr & think they are a nice body style...Don
I'm having a huge problem getting the steering sorted out though, not much room for a box and rack and pinion steering isn't for me.I
If anyone out there has any ideas throw them at me,I'd love to hear them,
Thanks, Rob
Rob, if your stock steering box is in good shape, you should be able to use it. I had a 40 Chevy pickup many years ago with a small block V8 and I kept the stock axle and steering. I did not have any problem with the steering.
Vern
I'm working on a 1948 Ford F-3 pickup. I have removed the engine, transmission, steering, and pedal assembly. I have purchased an 87 Chrysler donor car for the front suspension, steering column, and rear end. I am leaning heavily toward a Chevy V8 and TH350 drive train, but not totally decided yet. It has been sitting all winter, but I hope to get started back on it this Spring.
I have what once was a Corvair. It was heavily modified and a 327 was installed midships, driving a 3-speed and a Tempest rear end. That setup broke, the Tempest powerglide conversion had problems, and the whole thing is coming out.
It will get a GM 3.8 w/ 4T60 trans. I will use the brakes and much (all?) of the drive-axle suspension. (will be rear wheel drive).
(anyone know Len Haner? Tell him his Toy may yet run again!)
low buck, should be fun!
Don, in speaking with a streetrod builder last week, I posed the same question. He said you have to change the rear part of the frame to take out the rise.
I'm not a street rod expert but I know of alot of people that have used dodge dakota frames. They have a pretty straight run all the back with little kick-up. And as suspension goes used eveything that's there including the rack&pinion.
I'm working on a 1947 Seagrave fire truck with a 906 ci V12. The motor is only 5.5 to 1 compression to start with (odd combustion chamber/valve arrangement...valves are 90 degrees to clyinder bore!) I am thinking it needs some sort of forced induction.
For suspension it is gonna get slammed..... 4 links and air bags.
Wheels and tires are going to be modern big truck stuff (22.5 or 24.5)
Body wise, it will get 2 more doors (4 total) 2 more bench seats (3 total, seating for 9). Holes left by missing fire fighting stuff are going to be filled. Storage areas under the body are going to be built (9 people usually carry lots of stuff).
It may get a convertable top (with lift out side windows).
Something like this.
Salvage - That would work & perhaps be a good frame to use. It could be a better solution in some cases than a sub frame.
I know there is a lot of controversy on frame swaps. I would not do one on a 20-30's car but, I think they are a great altenative for larger cars & trucks in the 40,s & up.
The important thing is to pick one w/the same track...wheelbase can easily be changed. I have not used a trk frame but, have used GM mid size frames. ie....chevelle,El Camino.
Would like to hear some COMMENTS on frame swaps that turned out both good & bad. In fact I think I'll start a new thread on this subject.
I am just finishing up my 55 chevy 2 dr sedan.
It's Prostreet- fresh frame off.
Body
55 chevy all seams welded & filled
Color
Viper Racing Yellow & Satin White Pearl
Suspension frt
Drop spindles, coilovers, PST Polygraphites, all powdercoated.
Rear Suspension
Full competition 4 link w/ coilovers (no urethane)
Engine
Pro built 388 SBC roller motor w/ AFR 100% CNC, to much to list, 577 dyno horsepower
Tranny
Race built TH350 by Art Carr w/ comp 3200 stall by same
Rear
9" nodular Ford w/ 4:11's & locker
Fuel system
Tank is custom built show polished stainless cell w/ sump. Filters & pump are all Aeromotive. All lines are stainless hard line S&R is 1/2".
It's been driveable for about a month now. Still getting the bugs out.
Not raced- a show car now.
I’m currently working on a '53 Chevy pickup that I bought on a Yahoo auction about 3 years ago. It was right off the farm and the cab had more rust than metal but hay, what's a little metal replacement between friends anyway.
So far I have replaced the rear cab corners, front outside "A" pillars, firewall and the entire floor along with a 18"x3' section in the lower rear of the cab. The floor and firewall were done with custom cut 14 ga. pieces while the cab corners and “A” pillar outside sections were patch panels. It may weigh a little more now but it is solid.
I traded the stock babbitt pounder and trans for a couple of '50 doors (without the vent windows) and picked up a '47 bed from Kansas at a local swap meet. Also picked up a replacement radiator support while passing through Arizona. The original had the entire bottom section rusted out.
The frame was ground clean and the front section and back half were boxed. A Heidts Mustang II IFS was installed with a power rack and 11" GM disk brakes. A set of Dodge Caravan rear springs were mounted on custom hangers with a set of home made "CalTrac" traction bars to eliminate spring wrap. I wish I could take credit for this but using the Dodge springs (which are an extreemly easy install) was the brain child of a friend in Canada. He has well over 30,000 miles on the same setup with no problems. The 10-bolt posi rear end is from a mid 70's Trans Am and is equipped with 3.08 gears.
Motivation will be a 331 (+.0625) Chrysler Hemi, which will be hooked (via a Wilcap adaptor) to a TH-350 trans. I rebuilt the trans last winter and included a shift kit and a few select hardened parts. The rotating assembly is currently at the machine shop being balanced. The pistons were another e-bay purchase and were brand new and had been sitting on the shelf of a hot rod shop for 35 years. The result will be an engine with 3 7/8” bore (the same as a 283 sbc) but with a 3 5/8” stroke. Or about 343 cu. in. Nothing wild here, just a single 600 cfm Holley on a stock 4 bbl. manifold, mild cam and 8.5 compression. I will be using a 340 electronic distributor and ignition system, stock exhaust manifolds with dual 2.25” pipes with crossover, and twin Flowtech Terminator mufflers.
Other mods include “Hot Rod Air” air conditioning, extensively modified dash, a white leather split bench seat from a late 70's Olds Tornado, Lokar shifter, and Mazda Miata door handles with 84 Toyota Celica latch mechanisms. The front fenders were beyond repair so a set of "glass" replacements have been procured. Wiring will be done with an "It’s a Snap" kit and the bed will have a rolled pan with '70 Camaro taillights. The truck is also equipped with a new class III hitch from a Ford Expedition which was custom installed through the frame rails. It will be hidden and accessed through a folding license plate mount. The color will be 1969 Dodge "Hemi" Orange and it will ride on '69 Camaro rally wheels.
Where am I now?? The chassis and all metal replacement are done and I'm currently doing bodywork. Will assemble the motor soon and hope to have it on the road sometime next spring. All work so far has been done in my garage. **)
I'm working on a 72 f100 hopping to turn it in to a pro street truck any ideias on chassie work or engine mods would be helpful
I am working on a 36 chevy truck. Why do most parts manufacturers carry items starting in 37? I haven't seen many pics nor articles on customizing this particular truck. Although it is on a different frame, and will have a different power plant, I would still like to hear from someone who has seen one done. There are some pieces I would like to get, like a dash and some other miscellaneous parts. Can you guys help out?
I am just getting started on a 41 Ford Super Deluxe fordor, just got the body back from the blaster and am awaiting parts for the frame.
Working on one and thinking about another.
Currently customizing a '66 Corvair Monza, but searching for the right drivetrain. I like the Crown V8 conversion, but I'm tall and need the leg room. So I was thinking about the 4.3L V6 in place of the 350. Any thoughts? Any known problems with the 4.3L?
Currently thinking about a Formula Super Vee with a Corvair engine (left over from my current project). I'm not worried about meeting any "Specs" because I won't be competing against anything except other Corvair powered cars. Anyone know where I can pick up a Super Vee chassis with VW Bus transaxle?
Porsche motor? They make some wicked blown 6 cylinders ya know. not sure of price...and you'd need metric wrenches :CRY:Quote:
Originally posted by VairToy
Working on one and thinking about another.
Currently customizing a '66 Corvair Monza, but searching for the right drivetrain. I like the Crown V8 conversion, but I'm tall and need the leg room. So I was thinking about the 4.3L V6 in place of the 350. Any thoughts? Any known problems with the 4.3L?
Currently thinking about a Formula Super Vee with a Corvair engine (left over from my current project). I'm not worried about meeting any "Specs" because I won't be competing against anything except other Corvair powered cars. Anyone know where I can pick up a Super Vee chassis with VW Bus transaxle?
Toronado or eldo v8 drivetrain!!
Worked wiht a guy years ago that had a VW with a V6 out of some import (nissan??) and that was fast.
You could also try a Mazda rotary - small, light, cheap (i know of sources) and with a turbo you can get 300+ HP from 1.3 liters (that be 80 CI) reliable, and i have seen articles of 900HP! It'd be different!
Vairtoy - contact Mike Mann (vair@sisna.com). He has built a space frame for a Corvar. Next try the Virtual vairs in the Corvair Corsa web site. They have quitw a few links to this swap using Chey v6/v6 engines.
Mike Mann.... The name rings a bell. I've probably talked to him at one of the conventions. I'll drop him a note and see what he says.Quote:
Originally posted by Don Meyer
Vairtoy - contact Mike Mann (vair@sisna.com). He has built a space frame for a Corvar. Next try the Virtual vairs in the Corvair Corsa web site. They have quitw a few links to this swap using Chey v6/v6 engines.
Screamer.... You think like I do!.... My wife says we should both be committed! I have a '73 Olds Toronado 455 w/Turbo425 Transaxle in the back corner of my garage, and it was destined for the back end of the 'Vair, but my wife doesn't like the look of the IMSA flares that I mocked up on the 'Vair. Can't shorten the axles enough to keep the wheels tucked under fenders, even with front drive rims, without risking additional damage to the trailing arms, differential or both.
The Mazda rotary is very tempting, but I can't bring myself to put an import drivetrain in a classic piece of American iron. Must have something to do with growing up in Pittsburgh and watching the steel industry die a slow and painful death because of poor quality (at that time), government subsidised, steel from Japan. (Someone stop me before I get on my soap box!)
And the quest continues........
VairToy - try this for Mike(I left off the 65 in the above post).... 65vair@sisna.com
The most desireable is a Chev 3.8 or 4.3 in the original rear location. You will see many w/directions on Virtual Vairs in the corvair corsa web site......Don
Vairtoy,
I am a pittsbugher too. Could be why mu luck with jap cars has been abysmal to say the least.
USX Edgar thompson is last blast furnace left in PA...we have no steel mills left now.
Since we are sending scrap metal overseas, to be melted, cast and returned here as engines, does anyone really know where things originate? If it comes from Canada, is that the same as japan? Does it matter who owns the company? Are Saab's and Jags now american cars? It's all too confusing and in the end, just doesn't matter. How can i say that? TVs used to be made here in the USA, and in the 70s people cared. Now they're all made- do you even know where? Do you care? Nope. It works, its cheap, that's all that matters. :D
As to quality....that's a whole nuther discussion!**)
Hi Don, I have a 55 (early) Chev Pickup which is quite good. A friend and I have replaced suspension with Mk 10 Jag both ends. Body is underway. Keeping it stock with some smoothing and shaving. Motor is non-existent at present. Will be purchasing as late model as possible 350 injected when I get nearer the finish. Not sure about trans. I do like 6 speed, but very expensive here. Seems to be a long term project.
I also just purchased a 25 Dodge Roadster in need of restore. This car is rare in NZ and my vintage friends will crucify me if I rod it. However, I hate traveling at 40mph. I'm open to suggestions and links to pictures. I'm not averse to a vintage car in my garage.
Perhaps I should finish the body and make a fibreglass mould?
It is a pretty car, much like a Model A.
PS When I come to America, I wanna ride in your Vette!
Please!
:D
Don,
What do you think about a Northstar V8 in the back of the Corvair? Can't imagine it would be too hard, but I didn't think the Toronado would be too hard either. I know the bellhousing is different for the Northstar, so I would be looking at doing a complete drivetrain transplant.
When I get back from travel, I'll take some measurements of the engine bay on the Vair and then do some digging online to see how much cutting will need to be done. On the other hand, I have a lawyer friend with an STS, I wonder if he'll let me take it for a ride.........?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
i have a 1941 chevy truck id like pcks of custem rods to get an idea thanks
Bowen, Here's a pic from highwayone.com:
http://www.highwayone.com/Images/Pho...lsonPickup.jpg
Welcome to Club HotRod bowenrebel.Quote:
Originally posted by bowenrebel
i have a 1941 chevy truck id like pcks of custem rods to get an idea thanks
Have a look in our gallery, there's lots of great pics there, from member's builds/rides to some great Car Shows.
Larry
Bowen
Funny you should ask. I've been out of car building for around 25 yrs. About a yr./1/2 ago my son decided to buy an 85 camaro. It needed a paint job so, being the dad I am I offered to paint it for him. (Painted one for my daughter the year before so I owed him one). Painting the camaro I got the bug and bought a 70 z-28. Wuz. gonna be a mild build up job, but it has evolved some.
Turned into...:CRY:
Art Morrison tube chassis with 4 link/ Aerospace aluminum modular rear end w/Mark Williams 40 spline axles. Strut / rack & pinion front. building chassis for 7.5 sec certificaton. Funny car cage. Powerglide 572 BBC 1071 BDS Huffer / Enderle Bug Catcher Injection w/EFI conversion. Fiberglas tilt front end. Got pics. in the gallery.:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: **)