You have been busy all that fab work eats up time as there are no plans to follow
Good work
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You have been busy all that fab work eats up time as there are no plans to follow
Good work
No plans is right, bud. Just visions in my head...
Getting the engine cover servicable will be good as well as finishing up the left front wheel well and rear floors. The tank is still here at work. My welder is picking away at it. He only gets the time to do the work during his breaks so it is taking a while.
I am starting to think about wiring. The gauges and rewiring the fuel sender and rear mounted battery are the biggest jobs. Most of the dash harness from the '98 will get reused for light switches and such. I'll be stripping all of the unnecessary stuff like airbag wiring out of it though.
Designing the shifter mounting, console and seat brackets is pretty high on the list of things to do. I have mocked a lot of this stuff up prior to this but, now that the doghouse is roughed in, I can get serious. The big issue with all of this is quick and easy removal of the doghouse. I will probably end up with a snap in cover between the doghouse and console.
Just some of the things to think about. This is one of those projects that can eat you alive if you don't do things in stages...
Mark
Going back and forth will get you tired of the project. I hate having to do things twice.
It's funny that you mention that... mel and I were talking about that last weekend. There are very few parts in this build that we have had to do twice... I think we take our time on some things and others we just got lucky. :) I know I am having a blast!
Here are some pics of a little handle I designed last night in the shop. The need for this handle is to access a Dzus button at the front of the dog house. It is right under the duct for the HVAC. No way to reach it other than with this little "extension".
I roughed it out in steel, took those numbers to work and modeled it up in UG. I then sent the file to my pal in the fab shop and I had parts in my hand at lunch time!!!!
Here is the handle as I modeled it in UG. It's about three inches long.
http://images50.fotki.com/v1515/phot...mage001-vi.jpg
A few hours later I had parts in my hand.
http://images50.fotki.com/v393/photo...MVC002F-vi.jpg
After I got home from a VERY long day at work I put a bit of a bend on the handle.
http://images34.fotki.com/v1126/phot...MVC003F-vi.jpg
http://images51.fotki.com/v93/photos...MVC004F-vi.jpg
I ground a flat spot on the button (mostly to remove the galvanizing) and spot welded the handle in place.
Prior to welding.
http://images54.fotki.com/v77/photos...MVC007F-vi.jpg
After welding and a little clean up with the grinder. This position is the open position
http://images30.fotki.com/v41/photos...MVC010F-vi.jpg
Here is a shot with the button closed. With the handle like this it will be tucked up under the air duct, out of sight.
http://images114.fotki.com/v970/phot...MVC013F-vi.jpg
And one with it open for removal. This is easily reached as it sticks out past the duct. I'll get some more pics later.
http://images51.fotki.com/v747/photo...MVC014F-vi.jpg
This makes it real simple to get the buttons out for doghouse removal. I plan to add this handle to all of the buttons on the cover. They will get painted black and most of them you won't be able to see anyway. I think they look pretty cool...
Mark
Got a bit done this past weekend. I was up at 4 am Saturday and out in the shop before 5. I had stuff running thru my head. Dash, doghouse, HVAC ducts, ALL KINDS OF STUFF!!! I bolted the stock HVAC unit in place to check install clearances for the doghouse. Installation is okay, there was no way to reach that handle I designed the other night thoiugh. We ended up moving it reward a bit so we can get to it.
Here is the stock dash stripped of all of it's vinyl covering
http://images115.fotki.com/v672/phot...MVC003F-vi.jpg
I have decided to rebuild the front of the dash to replicate the late model (98 to '05) shape.
http://images34.fotki.com/v1075/phot...MVC014F-vi.jpg
I will cut up the '98 dash I have and use the front pieces to make the shape I want. This will leave the HVAC stuff alone and make for a simpler job.
Did a lot of work getting the 1/4 turns intalled. A little bit of head scratching but we got her done...
http://images115.fotki.com/v607/phot...MVC011F-vi.jpg
http://images43.fotki.com/v1321/phot...MVC012F-vi.jpg
We got the doghouse all fleshed out and covered with some t-shirt material Saturday. We stuck on a layer of thin cardboard to give the t-shirt material some structure.
http://images22.fotki.com/v520/photo...MVC016F-vi.jpg
We used a hot glue gun to stick the material down on one edge. We then pulled it across the sruface, stretching it, which really smoothed out the transitions.
http://images33.fotki.com/v1116/phot...MVC005F-vi.jpg
http://images22.fotki.com/v810/photo...MVC006F-vi.jpg
Back in place. Looks pretty good, we'll finish up the material tomorrow and thru on some resin.
http://images18.fotki.com/v61/photos...MVC008F-vi.jpg
Out in the shop at 7 Sunday morning. Modifying a dzus plate to weld to the new reward location and bending up a couple more of the handles. Mel got here at about 8 and we finished covering the doghouse with material.
This is a pic after the first coat of resin. This stiffened up the material enough that we could start laying some 'glass on.
http://images45.fotki.com/v148/photo...MVC010F-vi.jpg
http://images38.fotki.com/v1217/phot...MVC012F-vi.jpg
We let the piece cook in the sun for a few hours, did a little grinding to start smoothing things out and then bolted it back into the van so it can cure in the shape it needs to be...
We also mocked up the seats where they need to be, threw in the column for driver position and also worked out the shifter position. The shifter is going to live up on the back edge of the doghouse.
http://images49.fotki.com/v1458/phot...MVC005F-vi.jpg
I thought we would have to be VERY creative with the cable routing but I came up with a very easy route. We will be building the shifter into the top of the cover. This will all have to come out when the cover is removed....
See the "divot" in my leg from the band of steel in the doghouse? We cut that down a bit before we glassed it. Let me tell you there is NOT a lot of room over here for feet and legs.
Design-wise I will drop the shifter into a pocket, built into the cover, so the cable comes out level with the top of the doghouse, I will run the cable straight forward, over the top of the doghouse. I will then make a closeout panel to cover the cable (and wiring) which will pull off with a couple strips of velcro. Making the closeout panel out of the same carbon fiber that I use on the cover will make it all but disappear...
Mounting the shifter with some quick release pins will allow me to easily remove it and set it on the floor or in a seat to pull the cover.
Here is the solution in a nut shell...
" While looking at photos of the cover installed, I noticed, on the right side of the engine cover flange, there is a square hole which was the old computer connector pass-thru. I can route the cable in a big loop over the doghouse, vertically down thru that hole and then rearward toward the tailshaft. This will be one huge loop, no tight bends at all. I will route some romex along it tonight ,if I get time, but I thinking I may be able to get away with a 10 foot cable. I plan to hard mount the cable as much as possible to keep loss of travel to a minimum."
added a quick photoshop for cable routing
http://images42.fotki.com/v1314/phot...routing-vi.jpg
When I got home last night I ran the short cable I got with the shifter along my "path".
Up on top, the cable naturally falls down thru the pass-thru.
http://images58.fotki.com/v154/photo...MVC007F-vi.jpg
http://images57.fotki.com/v139/photo...MVC008F-vi.jpg
Underneath it sweeps right back toward the rear of the van. Mind you this is all natural, there are no forced bends in the routing.
http://images33.fotki.com/v1187/phot...MVC005F-vi.jpg
This routing will work perfectly and it tucks the cable right alongside the old frame rail, well away from the headers and exhaust heat.
Thanks for looking!
Mark
Lots more work done, good weekend, Mark! Shifter should work great where you are putting it!
should not need to hard mount the cable only at mounting points control ends . same control cables what are used in boats there not hard mounted other then at the ends. the GM dog house is SMC thermal set are you using epoxy to bond with .oh my home e mail is down so you have to mail me here or just call me
Hey Pat,
If the cable was in a mostly straight line I wouldn't worry about flex but, being that I will have a couple of big loops in it I will hard mount as close to the bend tangencies as I can. This will eliminate any lost motion from the loops flexing.
I riveted all of the inner structure to the back half of the doghouse. I am using a polyesther resin for most of this "sub-structure" work. I will use the more expensive epoxy when I do the full cover. With the SMC stuff buried in the 'glass I don't think it will delaminate.
fiber gell works the best on smc fast lay up other then epoxy.poly glass resin just seem s not to work as good as fiber gell..I wish i did not know any of this but i do as in a past life i did alot of SMC work along with controll cables in boats last cable was over 40 feet long was in a wood boat 57 feet long with two 671 with a walk in engine bay:whacked:
Intermediate flex of the cable does not affect the movement of the inner cable, provided both ends are firmly mounted. Restricting movement of the cable along the way does not hurt anything, but it also does nothing to help. Once you have the ends of the outer sheath mounted solid you're done, regardless how long, or how many direction changes or loops the cable makes. The only reason for intermediate restraint is if it rattles.
Okay, Thanks Roger. I can see that. It will get hard mounted anyway but just to keep it from flopping around. Good enough. Thanks guys!
I worked on shifter placement a bit last night. Mounted the short cable to the shifter body and started laying out where I will be cutting the cover to make the shifter pocket. I am thinking I will design a little control panel into the shifter closeout to contain the Gear Vendor switches. May as well keep that stuff close to the shifter anyway.
I also mocked up the dash and started looking at gauge placement and shifter cable clearance. The dash sits about an inch over the top of the cover so there is no issue height-wise and it comes out over the cover enough that there is only a couple of inches of cable that you can actually "see" between the shifter and dash. If I do the gauge layout I am thinking of I can hide all of this cable and wiring stuff with the dash. I'll get some pics loaded, didn't get on the computer last night.
Keeping it all in one spot is a good idea. Nice neat package.
Hey Charlie, Yea, that's the plan. I will keep all of the GV switches at the shifter. I MAY look into ordering the two button shifter handle just to simplify things even more... I don't know if I'd like having the switches on the handle though. Seems like they would be open for pushing at the wrong time...
It's been a bit hectic around home the last half of the week. My dad was in the hospital since Tuesday for an infection (his kidneys are bad and he is doing home dialysis) anyway he got an infection and had to have some heavy antibiotics pumped into him to clear it up. They took care of it though and he came home Friday afternoon, fit as a fiddle.
We worked in the garden for an hour or so this morning. He was glad to be back home...
Didn't get a lot of physical work done during the week but I did get a quick release for the shifter cable designed in my head. Because I am bolting the shifter right to the engine cover it HAS to come out with the cover for engine access. Removing the cable from the shifter seemed about the only way to make this an easy task. The cable for the Outlaw shifter actually screws into a little block that then bolts to the front of the shifter. This is why I was able to do what I did.
This morning I made a new block for the cable to thread into. A bit bigger than the original.
Here is the front of the shifter.. The old block was held on with the lower bolt and the cable went thru the slot above it.
http://images33.fotki.com/v1072/phot...MVC003F-vi.jpg
Here is the new block (1/4" plate) being drilled and tapped to replace the original. The size is 1 1/2 X 1 5/8ths.
http://images107.fotki.com/v67/photo...MVC001F-vi.jpg
Mounted on the shifter. The two holes on the right are for a couple of quick release pins.
http://images56.fotki.com/v701/photo...MVC015F-vi.jpg
Stll bolted in place with the QR holes drilled thru the shifter body.
http://images52.fotki.com/v1553/phot...MVC018F-vi.jpg
Not done yet! In order for this bracket to do it's job I have to make another piece that will "clam" over the front of the shifter. This will keep the cable from moving back and forth on the quick release pins.
Here is the little "L" bracket that slides down inside the shifter body to capture the shifter and maintain the cable alignment.
http://images52.fotki.com/v1563/phot...MVC013F-vi.jpg
From the front of the shifter. This was taken before the pin holes were drilled... Sorry.
http://images112.fotki.com/v106/phot...MVC011F-vi.jpg
I welded the L bracket to the new block and then thru drilled the pin holes.
Here is the new "Quick Release Bracket" with a couple of #10 allen screwss I used for mock-up. I will order some pins from McMaster Carr.
http://images16.fotki.com/v383/photo...MVC007F-vi.jpg
This works pretty slick. I will do some fine tuning when I get the actual pins but this will work great!
http://images38.fotki.com/v231/photo...MVC002F-vi.jpg
http://images42.fotki.com/v1319/phot...MVC004F-vi.jpg
http://images42.fotki.com/v1436/phot...MVC003F-vi.jpg
Thanks for looking!
Mark
I also got the doghouse notched out to drop the shifter cable level with the top
http://images40.fotki.com/v1332/phot...MVC009F-vi.jpg
I started small and worked my way up to something that fits the shifter well. I will probably open this up a bit more on the sides but for right now it does the job.
http://images12.fotki.com/v531/photo...MVC008F-vi.jpg
Here is a shot of the steel bracket that the shifter bolts to. I made this out of some 20ga. sheet. It will get some reinforcment underneath before it gets 'glassed in.
http://images56.fotki.com/v541/photo...MVC016F-vi.jpg
Set in place. This locates the shifter and gives me four thru bolts for attachment.
http://images38.fotki.com/v1279/phot...MVC015F-vi.jpg
Here is the bracket all riveted in. This is plenty stout as it is but I'll throw some 18 ga. gussets in there before glassing...
http://images56.fotki.com/v371/photo...MVC002F-vi.jpg
Looking at the shifter all bolted in...
http://images45.fotki.com/v1431/phot...MVC001F-vi.jpg
The cable bracket removes very easily and I have an S clip on the linkage to hold it in. I will end up drilling a 1/16th inch hole thru the post for that.
http://images16.fotki.com/v220/photo...MVC007F-vi.jpg
What do you think?
Thanks for looking
Mark
Got a bit more done today. i opened up the clearance hole for the shifter body. It now has a bit of a taper from top to bottom. You can see my layout lines here.
http://images112.fotki.com/v682/phot...MVC002F-vi.jpg
I made two strips of 20 ga. to tie the mounting plate down crosscar. Made a couple of cardboard templates and bend them up on the 3 in 1.
This the front strip. It will get riveted into the doghouse and spot welded to the shifter plate.
http://images34.fotki.com/v1076/phot...MVC004F-vi.jpg
Here is the rear strip. This one worked out, position wise, that I could bolt thru it with the two bottom shifter bolts. I have started riveting this one in.
http://images112.fotki.com/v495/phot...MVC009F-vi.jpg
All riveted in and welded up. This is plenty strong right now and once the glass work done it'll be even better. I was kind of worried about stability of the shifter during operation but that isn't a concern anymore.
http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photo...MVC019F-vi.jpg
I also did a little mocking up of the gauges. I made a cardboard facsimily of the lower gauge cluster and taped it in just to get a feel for their placement.
http://images24.fotki.com/v831/photo...MVC003F-vi.jpg
I'll do a little more looking at this. I will probably end up moving the whole panel down a bit to close the gap to the cover. I also have to develope the closeout for the cable and switch wiring.
http://images110.fotki.com/v571/phot...MVC005F-vi.jpg
I got my carbon fiber yesterday! It looks pretty darn kool! I'll get some pics of it but I didn't want to open up the packaging until I really need to.
Mark
Looks good Mark, I like the position of the shifter, gotta have it up there where you can grab it!
Looks great! I'm confused with one thing though. I would have expected the shifter cable to be inside the doghouse, curving down to the tranny connection. How will the cable be concealed atop the doghouse? I'm sure you've got it all planned - just wondering.
Thanks Dave, we mocked up the seats and steering column and I sat in the van with the "shifter" in my hand to get best position. It's really not far off from one of my Firebirds.
Roger, yes, I have a plan. The shifter, cable and wiring will get covered by a close-out plate that will velcro on. (see post #247) I am still deciding if I will make it out of aluminum or carbon fiber. I am leaning toward the CF because then it would just look like part of the doghouse until I peel it off. It will be a fairly simple piece. It will also incorporate the wiring for the Gear Vendors Unit and that will have to unplug for cover removal also.
Thanks Guys
Mark
Did a little bit of work today, and a lot of sweating! My lord it is hot here! I would go out and work for a half hour or so and then go back into the house to cool off.
Probably not the best time to be working with fiberglass but it's got to get done. I started by cutting some thin cardboard to line the sides of the shifter pocket. I then layered in strips of glass on either side,
inside
http://images28.fotki.com/v977/photo...MVC006F-vi.jpg
and out
http://images9.fotki.com/v177/photos...MVC003F-vi.jpg
After a cool down I went back out and started glassing the outside of the cover.
I got a layer added to the top. Here it is before I mixed the resin. You can see how I cut it to snuggle down into the shifter pocket.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1200/phot...MVC008F-vi.jpg
After a bit of resin it is all very clear...
http://images15.fotki.com/v587/photo...MVC009F-vi.jpg
I added a layer to the inside. I had to do it it sections because it was so hot the resin was kicking very fast even when I shorted the hardener by 25%.
http://images39.fotki.com/v1234/phot...MVC012F-vi.jpg
That's where I ran out of resin... I will do a bit of clean up on the inside. Other then adding some glass to the seal edge I won't do any more inside until the insulation is glued in. I will ten add another layer of glass and paint it.
Tomorrow I am running up to Kawkawlin to talk to my engine guy. He has the 509 apart and wants to do some work to make it more tractible for the street.
I will pick up more rsin on my way home...
Thanks for looking
Mark
Mark,I know your working on the shifter.Please excuse this question.It is kind of related to the doghouse.Did you do something to eliminate those dreaded inside screws that attach the cover at the top??.
Hey Gary,
Go back to post #237. That illustrates what is happening with the front half. That half will basically stay in place unless I have to do any front of engine work. Same goes for all of the removable floor panels. I can remove the two side panels easily enough for plug work but they will ALL come out when it's time to yank the motor.
Mark
Yeah Mark.You know long threads sometimes details get over looked or lost.Thanks.
No problem...
The engine parts just sold on eBay so now I can order the new heads! Very Cool!
I have been picking away at the van stuff... It's been so FREAKIN" hot here it is almost unbearable!
Last weekend I would work for a half hour and then head into the house to change my shirt and cool off. Pretty ridiculus. The yard thermometer read 108 in my back yard.
This weekend wasn't as bad but if you weren't working directly in front of the fan you were pretty uncomfortable...
Anyway, I got the doghouse pretty well along last weekend. It is all glassed and there is a skim coat of Bondo on most it to start smoothing. Really won't take much from what I am seeing...
First coat. I knocked this down with a cheese grater. Quick and leaves a good surface for skim coats.
http://images45.fotki.com/v1427/phot...MVC009F-vi.jpg
This is how it sits now. I will DA this smooth and then flow on a coat of resin to make a smooth surface for the carbon fiber.
http://images55.fotki.com/v1618/phot...MVC003F-vi.jpg
The pass. side. Not a lot of filler here. I was really surprised how well the t-shirt material worked to smooth this off during lay-up.
http://images55.fotki.com/v1618/phot...MVC003F-vi.jpg
We worked on few things this weekend, the shifter housing, the left front wheel house and the seat mounting brackets. The seat brackets are being redesigned to better carry the "load"... :) Mel made a jig board that the sliders bolt to'
http://images61.fotki.com/v440/photo...MVC015F-vi.jpg
We decided to cut the original mounting ears off the sliders and make our own out of 3/16ths x 2" angle.
http://images60.fotki.com/v224/photo...MVC021F-vi.jpg
The angle will weld to the sliders and span the gap between them, essentially making the sliders one piece... I will have to order some angle, didn't have any on hand that size.
The front wheel house was pretty straight forward. Had to do some tack welding and make a piece to plug the large hole left after moving the old housinng inboard 3 inches.
http://images16.fotki.com/v369/photo...MVC020F-vi.jpg
I'll clean up the surface rust before it gets welded in.
This is from underneath.
http://images39.fotki.com/v1230/phot...MVC021F-vi.jpg
I also did a LOT of work on the shifter housing this past week.
Last Sunday I made an aluminum "spine" to mimic the shape of the housing. I used the aluminum cover I got with the shifter as a study but ended up changing the shape a bit to get more closure on the handle to housing gap. The aluminum piece had a HUGEJASS hole in it so it couild be dropped over the handle... My cover is removable so I designed it to split around the handle slot which allowed me to close up that gap, aLOT.
http://images35.fotki.com/v1170/phot...MVC008F-vi.jpg
I also made up a plate to carry the Overdive switches.
http://images42.fotki.com/v664/photo...MVC009F-vi.jpg
The aluminum is a scrap piece of 20thou I got from a trophy shop. They scrap out a lot of this stuff...
http://images36.fotki.com/v1155/phot...MVC010F-vi.jpg
After I got the switches where I needed them I laid down a layer of duct tape on the doghouse to start laying up the mounting flanges
I didn't get any pics of the flange build... Things were going to quick and I didn't take the time, sorry.
After the flanges cooked off I hot glued more of that beautiful t-shirt material to the flange and the "spine". Once that was allresined up this is what I had...
http://images40.fotki.com/v1238/phot...MVC015F-vi.jpg
I laid this all up as one piece. Much easier to get things smooth and flowing. Once it cooked I added a few layers of glass and cut out the switch window.
http://images60.fotki.com/v661/photo...MVC016F-vi.jpg
The cover was then cut into two parts. The right hand side is the biggest. I will attach the left hand (switch) side with screws from underneath so the switches will be servicable.
http://images33.fotki.com/v1141/phot...MVC019F-vi.jpg
Here is the cover with the shifter bolted in.
http://images51.fotki.com/v731/photo...MVC003F-vi.jpg
And the bolt on piece removed...
http://images59.fotki.com/v255/photo...MVC005F-vi.jpg
This is coming along nicely. I have glassed in flanges to support the removable piece and to close out the gap between the two pieces.
One other thing I did was a mod to the shifter itself. I plan to use a small key to make the cable removable so I drilled a small hole thru the cable pin to insert the key into.
This is the key before I drilled. It just snapped around the groove in the pin.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1492/phot...MVC008F-vi.jpg
This is the fixture I made to drill the pin. A piece of 3/4 in scrap aluminum. I bored a hole in the end to slide over the pin and then drilled a hole down thru it to guiide the drill bit as I drilled the pin.
http://images55.fotki.com/v268/photo...MVC009F-vi.jpg
Worked slick and the pin drilled a lot easier then I thought it would.
http://images61.fotki.com/v52/photos...MVC011F-vi.jpg
Now I have positive retention for the key. :)
http://images31.fotki.com/v1052/phot...MVC013F-vi.jpg
Well, that's about it... Thanks for looking.
Mark
It all looks really good, Mark! Should work out great!
Some great detail shots, Mark. Thanks for taking time to stop & photograph, which I know is not always easy when working glass.
Thanks Roger! I am trying to be diligent in my photo taking. Some things I have missed but I have 98% of the build documented in pics on my Fotki site.
Got a bit done this past weekend. Saturday was pretty much a lost cause. Hit a yard sale and picked up an old Sears scroll saw for 5 bucks...
http://images18.fotki.com/v87/photos...MVC003F-vi.jpg
It ran! I had to rewire it, put on a new switch and do a lot of cleaning and some fine tuning but she runs like a champ and I was cutting 1/4" aluminum with it Sunday morning!
http://images9.fotki.com/v248/photos...MVC010F-vi.jpg
Sunday was a pretty good day! Earlier in the week my wife picked up an air conditioner for the shop!
http://images12.fotki.com/v20/photos...MVC001F-vi.jpg
I put it in the window in the machine shop side and it does a FINE job of cooling of the man cave... Do you see what the temp is in the pic? That was at 2 or 3 in the afternoon Saturday and the thermometer outside read 88... Very nice!
We got a good start on the seat mounting frames. I was not at all impressed by the mounting tabs on the provided sliders so thet got cut off.
http://images51.fotki.com/v424/photo...MVC021F-vi.jpg
See that thin little strip of metal that we cut?
http://images33.fotki.com/v1140/phot...MVC022F-vi.jpg
THAT is what was supporting my 270 lb bulk. And it didn't do a very good job either. I bent them just trial fitting the seats... They had to go.
We replaced them wih these... 3/16 x 2" angle. This will get welded to both sliders in leau of the pieces we just removed. Welded between the sliders on both ends.
http://images12.fotki.com/v20/photos...MVC012F-vi.jpg
After adding some "character". :)
http://images52.fotki.com/v639/photo...MVC014F-vi.jpg
We made the floor frames from bent up 3/16 x 2" strip.
http://images43.fotki.com/v398/photo...MVC019F-vi.jpg
The floor frames will bolt to the angles with two bolts on each corner.
http://images108.fotki.com/v205/phot...MVC004F-vi.jpg
I am in the process of designing the triangulation braces. This is what I've come up with. (built out of foam core)
This is the front (I flipped the pic to get it oriented right. We are building these upside down on the jig board) The brace will weld to the floor frame on the outer ends and bolt to the front crossmember with two 3/8 in bolts.
http://images55.fotki.com/v605/photo...MVC002F-vi.jpg
This is the side view. (also flipped) All of this will weld to the floor frame and not effect the seat.
http://images52.fotki.com/v733/photo...MVC001F-vi.jpg
This will made out of 3/16 x 1 and 3/16 x 2 strip.
What do you think? Too busy looking? Once everything is powder coated black I think it will look great!
Thanks for looking
Mark
P.S. The fuel tank is ALMOST DONE! My welder has been picking away at it on his breaks and during lunch. I looked it over today and all he has to finish is a couple small patches for the frame kickups and pressure test and we'll be good. It looks really good and he has done an incredible job of welding up all of that .090 with very little warpage!
I can't wait to get this thing home...
its great when a plan comes together
some guy have it bad AC in the shop ... what the hell ..whats next a TV man nothing going to get done.. i bet you have beer on tap :) you better re work then seats you hit that small block 254 de stroke chevy that.s going back in . it .s going to throw you in the back of your van :)
Seat mounts should be fine, Mark. When they've got to be that tall they need some size and bracing to keep the flex out of them.
Thanks guys! Hey Pat, what do you think the torque numbers will be on the 254 at 10grand? :) There is no beer or TV, yet, and the A/C just makes for a very comfortable work shop. Well worth it just to pull the humidity out of the air...
Dave, we mocked the seats in on brackets I got with the seats and they seemed a bit low. This was at a 4 1/2" height to the bottom of the seat. We added an 1" to that and redesigned all of the mounting hardware. I hope the additional braces, as well as the double bolts in each corner, will keep me in the front of the van! Pat gets to ride right behind me on the maiden voyage! :)
i hope your seat brackets are strong... i do not want to hold you up when you hit 2 gear
mark if your timming is right there may be some heavy hardware in kawkawlin if you like that ls stuff
HAY! Whats wrong with A/C and TV in the shop?? I have both TV is hardly ever on Lately A/C is on Radio never turned off.
What are you working on now??? 'Splain it too me Lucy! :)
A Big Ass fan would get the air moving. That would be a plus. It wasn't that bad in your shop the last time I was up there but, getting the air moving, would help a lot. Even a small A/C unit like I got helps a ton, just getting the humidity down is a good thing.
I'd love to see a high of 88F in mid-afternoon!! Yesterday we were at 103 to 105F, with humidity in the 30-35% range which is pretty high for that heat. Inside the barn/shop was pushing upper 90's. A fan helps, but when it's pushing 100+ air it's kind of like a blast furnace. Just glad I'm not in AZ in the summer! That place is brutal.
Nope no beer here just cool air