I'm curious as to how I can build a good IFS on a budget, I can't afford to go out and buy a new MII. Also, I'm not looking to do a subframe swap. What can I do to get a good IFS on a budget? :confused:
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I'm curious as to how I can build a good IFS on a budget, I can't afford to go out and buy a new MII. Also, I'm not looking to do a subframe swap. What can I do to get a good IFS on a budget? :confused:
you can get the crossmember kits for most suspension kit manufacturers, fat man fab is like $379 for the crossmember kit. you can install that, then find a pinto or mustang ll in a wrecking yard and buy the control arms, spindles, springs, steering rack, etc. for installation on the crossmember. you can then upgrade as you have the cash. you can buy the shocks new at checker or autozone for little money as well. i would also get the power steering pump that works with the rack, and buy the mounts for the pump to fit the engine you plan on using. done right, and with judicious shopping, you can be into the suspension swap for under $600, and going wild buying new or rebuilt parts, under $1000.
Right on thanx for the help. sounds a lot better than spending $2k on the whole set up.
I am using the pinto crossmember also, only thing I'm not using off of it is the hubs. I am getting granada hubs for it so I have a five lug pattern and bigger brakes. You can use '80-'84 Monte-carlo hubs also. Then you use the small GM calipers off of a camaro.:D
I'm in the process of putting a stock MII front crossmember in my '29 Whippet and it looks like I will have to move the wheels out 2" each side so that the upper a-arms will clear the inside of the fenders. This will also put the tires about 2" inside the fenders. The crossmember will therefore have to be lengthened 4". This doesn't seem like it would be a major problem. Does it sound like anything anyone else had to do? Also, are 2" longer tie rods available?
Thanks for the help.
contact fatman fabrications and see if they either have a crossmember kit for your car, or if they have one that will fit with a little work. likely they have something very close as they have many kits. oh, and you dont use longer tie rod ends, you use rack extensions to keep the steering geometry correct. depending on how you mount the rack(centered or offset to one side, usually the left) will dictate as to whether you use one or two rack extensions. fatman fab can help you with that as well.Quote:
Originally posted by whippetguy
I'm in the process of putting a stock MII front crossmember in my '29 Whippet and it looks like I will have to move the wheels out 2" each side so that the upper a-arms will clear the inside of the fenders. This will also put the tires about 2" inside the fenders. The crossmember will therefore have to be lengthened 4". This doesn't seem like it would be a major problem. Does it sound like anything anyone else had to do? Also, are 2" longer tie rods available?
Thanks for the help.
Thanks rbohm. I'll check with fatman and see what they have. I would still like to use the stock crossmember, however, if possible. I'm running on a real tight budget, but isn't that what hot rodding is all about?
I have a Heidts MII crossmember, tubular upper & lower control arms, Mustang coil springs and BYG shocks. I'll sell for $500 CDN. $360 USD. plus shipping. The control arms alone sell for that by themselves.
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950b.../stude1014.jpg
All parts are new and have never seen the street. Will need cleaning up as they were on a project car and I've decided to build a new frame with air ride suspension.
Just add spindles, rack, Granada rotors & calipers to complete the package.
1950, what is the hub-to-hub measurement of your crossmember?
whippetguy, i have another suggestion for you. consider a volare front suspension. you can get the whole settup from the salvage yard for $200-500 and it sounds like it is the right width for your whippet. you will need to use a rear sump oil pan, and you dont get rack and pinion steering, but you do get torsion bars, and they can be lowered for shows, and raised again for driving on the street. the F100 guys use them all the time.
They work well and hook up with 4 bolts, I have one I'd sell for fin that comes with a saginaw pump which is a good pump.
The nice thing about the Volare IFS is that 80% of it goes under the car giving you alot of clearance in the fenderwells.
E-mail me if your interested:
westplainsmason@hotmail.com