bellhousing runout

I tried to check the runout of my bellhousing center hole tonight but the dial I had was worthless and wouldn't hold a reading. I will be using a different type, BUT, if it turns out to have too much runout I've read that offset dowels are the solution.
If so, how do the old ones come out?
Is there enough play in the 6 mounting bolts to offset the bell and still get the bolts to thread right? Won't they just kind of nudge the bell back to where it was? I realize we're talking about thousanths here, but still.
I've read .008 is the maximum allowable runout.

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Originally posted by tcodi
I tried to check the runout of my bellhousing center hole tonight but the dial I had was worthless and wouldn't hold a reading. I will be using a different type, BUT, if it turns out to have too much runout I've read that offset dowels are the solution.
If so, how do the old ones come out?
Is there enough play in the 6 mounting bolts to offset the bell and still get the bolts to thread right? Won't they just kind of nudge the bell back to where it was? I realize we're talking about thousanths here, but still.
I've read .008 is the maximum allowable runout.

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if you can bolt up the trans up without it binding in the pilot bushing i wouldnt worry about it, other wise i think you got a problem. you cut the spacer to make the trans work right. bolt the trans up with out the clutch in it and see what you got or drill the bolt holes bigger and take the dowel pins out :whacked:

I checked just now with the right kind of dial, and my bell is .020 off. I just bought a new 5 speed so I want it to be right.
I banged out one of the dowels to put in an offset one, but the other one is right in front of the oil filter, and you can't get anything behind it to pound it out with.
Does anyone have any experience removing this dowel?
Should I cut it off, and beat it out from the front?

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Originally posted by tcodi
I checked just now with the right kind of dial, and my bell is .020 off. I just bought a new 5 speed so I want it to be right.
I banged out one of the dowels to put in an offset one, but the other one is right in front of the oil filter, and you can't get anything behind it to pound it out with.
Does anyone have any experience removing this dowel?
Should I cut it off, and beat it out from the front?

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vice- grips

I was afraid someone was gonna say vice grips.
This one is way to tight in there for that.

here are the two turns I took and the readings I got, for reference

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tcodi
here are the two turns I took and the readings I got, for reference [/QUOTE


weld a nut or something you can get hold of. to it:D

ahhhhh
I didn't even think of that.
thanks
I assume I'll need to at least put a tack on the new ones
once I get them in right so that they don't turn.

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Originally posted by tcodi
ahhhhh
I didn't even think of that.
thanks
I assume I'll need to at least put a tack on the new ones
once I get them in right so that they don't turn.

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THATS WHAT IM HERE FOR you work, i supervise. a little tack wouldnt hurt. :cool:

Got my offset dowels last night. It only took me about 3 hours of putting them in, checking the runout, taking them out, putting them in at a different angle, checking runout . . .repeat. . repeat, repeat. . and I finally got it right on the money.
One question though, should I be using grade 8 for the bell bolts? I got grade 5 and assumed that was strong enough.
How about the trans. bolts? grade 5 I have.
The manufacturer says the first step to break the trans in is to run it up and down through all the gears (while jacked up). Is it safe to run a car sitting on jackstands, or could it shake off them?
What if I do this before I get a drive shaft. Could I just run the trans with no slip yoke in it at all?
Sorry, that was more like 4 questions.

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Originally posted by tcodi
Got my offset dowels last night. It only took me about 3 hours of putting them in, checking the runout, taking them out, putting them in at a different angle, checking runout . . .repeat. . repeat, repeat. . and I finally got it right on the money.
One question though, should I be using grade 8 for the bell bolts? I got grade 5 and assumed that was strong enough.
How about the trans. bolts? grade 5 I have.
The manufacturer says the first step to break the trans in is to run it up and down through all the gears (while jacked up). Is it safe to run a car sitting on jackstands, or could it shake off them?
What if I do this before I get a drive shaft. Could I just run the trans with no slip yoke in it at all?
Sorry, that was more like 4 questions.

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glade to see you making some headway. you need the yoke in the trans or you'll sling all the oil out. just be sure the bolts are tight and the 5 are ok. i run cars on the stands all the time, leave the floor jack under the dif. will help. if you car is shaking bad enough to jump off of the stands then you've got other problems. shouldn't be any shaking. or maybe a little tire bal. shake. shouldnt be but a little of that. :cool:

so that rubber seal at the rear of the trans. is the main seal for the fluid?
If I have the yoke in with no driveshaft, will it fall out the back since nothing is holding it in place.

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Originally posted by tcodi
so that rubber seal at the rear of the trans. is the main seal for the fluid?
If I have the yoke in with no driveshaft, will it fall out the back since nothing is holding it in place.

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YOULL NEED FOR THE SHAFT TO BE IN IT but if you really dont wont to run it on the stands fill it with oil, let it warm up good then drive it down the road at a slow speed for a little ways. then check for leaks. check for leaks as soon as you start the motor also. you can also turn the rear wheels by hand to get some oil moving in the trans. :cool:

Got the engine and tranny together and in place. I layed out all the brake lines yesterday and bent them all accordingly, I hope there wasn't anything else I should have done before putting in the engine/tranny. It was a major pain squeezing that thing in without wrecking my firewall paint.

done

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Originally posted by tcodi
done

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i wouldnt say done tcodi, maybe a good start, getting some head way, getting somewhere, but no not done.:HMMM: :LOL: :LOL: looking good though.:cool:

I meant done putting the engine in place.
Certainly not even close to done in any other respect.

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Originally posted by tcodi
I meant done putting the engine in place.
Certainly not even close to done in any other respect.

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i know what you meant, just joking and its looks good to. i can see you put a lot of work into it. if i can help with anything else id be glade to.:cool:

well, one thing is, my motor mounts I made use a sleeve that is probably 1/4" larger than the motor mount bolt that goes through it (it was the closest round tubing I could find when I was making them).
Basically there is slack in there so the engine is capable of moving up and down a small bit. I'm worried that under torque it may lift up slightly on one side and then clunk back down and sound crappy.
Should I make up another sleeve that will fill the space?
Is there any type of synthetic material that might be a good idea to use? Maybe something that is a little compressible?

here's quick sketch of what I have.

Quote:

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Originally posted by tcodi
well, one thing is, my motor mounts I made use a sleeve that is probably 1/4" larger than the motor mount bolt that goes through it (it was the closest round tubing I could find when I was making them).
Basically there is slack in there so the engine is capable of moving up and down a small bit. I'm worried that under torque it may lift up slightly on one side and then clunk back down and sound crappy.
Should I make up another sleeve that will fill the space?
Is there any type of synthetic material that might be a good idea to use? Maybe something that is a little compressible?

here's quick sketch of what I have.

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are they solid mounts no rubber? if you tighten them tight enough they shouldnt move. but if had to you could tack weild if it moved.:cool:

there is rubber on the mounts that attach to the engine.
It's just that the bolt going through the sleeve of the frame mount has play.