shifting at full throttle with a lokar? adjustment?

Hey guys, this is one of those I'm curious about it posts. we have a lokar shifter in the truck, in the little bit of driving I did before tearing it apart to do a bit of work I noticed that it seems easy to jump through second when shifting up and end up in 3rd.

My question, is this something you get the feel for and ceases to be a problem, or do I need to go to a ratchet style shifter?

one more thing, I noticed that to shift it out of park into reverse, and I think down into 2nd/1st you have to depress the button, but at least to get out of park you also have to push the stick just a bit forward, is this an adjustment thing?

Red

IMO if you want to shift manually you need a good shifter. The Lokar is a detent shifter and not reliable for gear banging. Lots of gate and ratchet shifters out there for not too much money.

Kitz

Kitz is correct---Lokars are not made to shift with when the car is moving. Pushing the stick foreward to get out of park is an adjustment thing.

the b&m aren't too bad, but I don't see anything with along handle. I don't want to be reaching way down trying to drive. anybody got a suggestion?

Red

The B&M truck shifter sits on a raised platform. The shifter is the same as the car version, but the mount and cover is raised higher for truck use. I can send the measurements if you want to get an idea of how it sits.

Mike

that would be great man, I have the 16" lokar now, it puts it at about the right height, might be able to go slightly shorter, but not much. Hurst makes a ratchet shift that sits about 15" I think.

I want to make sure I understand it right, the ratchet is setup so when you bump it forward it can't jump into the next gear. right? seems better than a gated where I'd have to depress the lever.

I guess i can get one and sell the lokar. looks like they cost 185-230, I should be able to at least recoupe some cost.

the lokar mounts direct to the transmission. it looks like the Hurst and B&M mount up on the transmission hump/floor? that would make it easier to build that cover I think.

Red

Dago

You're right about the ratchet shifter. If it's working right, you can bang it hard as you want and it'll only shift 1 gear(up or down). Has a positve reverse lock out too.

It does mount on the hump and uses a cable to the trans. It comes with a cover that can be trimmed to fit.

I'll get the measurements as quick as I can.

Mike

I am using a B&M progate. I didn't want to reach either so I jacked it up with some CNC parts I machined and a pair of alcohol drag boat rods ............ :LOL:

Kitz

I had the same experience with my 12 in Lokar. The best I can do is lean my leg up against it and "tweek lt" for shifting.

I asked them about it and they said they are working on a ratchet type but who knows when that will come about. That was a year ago.

Check your Lokar instructions to see if there's a friction adjustment down at the pivot point.

Gennie Shifters have one and tightening it up a touch - don't get carried away - helps quite a bit.

i have the same problem when trying to manully shift. I've taken the shifter apart and i'm working on making new side plates that will stop the second to third shift without pushing the button,then will stop the third to neutral when the button is held in.
I'll post some pics if it works out.

Lokar shifters have no indents of their own between low, second, and high gear. They depend on the indents inside your automatic transmission. They were never designed to shift with while the car is moving.

Last guy I saw that tried to manual shift his Lokar wound up in reverse when he went for drive.... That was ugly..... They're made for good looks and cuizin', not for racing.....

the longest hurst they have at summit right now has a 15.5" handle, I figure worst case I can always make a new one or modify. we haven't even got a hump built yet so should be ok. talked to Rick last night he said go ahead and get the Hurst unit.

can you cut the cable shorter? It goes right over the trans I can't see needing the full 5'.

Also, what's the market look like for selling my Lokar, by the way it isn't the 16" I checked and it is the 23". I want to try and recoup some cost so I am not just dumping more and more money.

Thanks guys, you're always a big help.

Red

Dago---If you have all the parts and the box it came in, list it for 2/3 of whatever Lokar is selling theirs for.

I'm pretty sure I have all the parts, they should all be on there :) I don' have the box though, the guy didn't give me that with the truck when we bought it. Summit lists it for 220. I guess I'll list it for 145.20 and see if it moves. I really need to sell that cobra jet carb too.

thanks man.

Loop the excess cable in a circle under the floorboards then bring it to the trans bracket.

A shallow angle on a cable makes em last a long time.

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Originally Posted by C9x

Loop the excess cable in a circle under the floorboards then bring it to the trans bracket.

A shallow angle on a cable makes em last a long time.

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As C9 said, loop it - after using a couple of the cable B&M shifters in previous cars, you really do need that length to get a smooth transition from the shifter to the transmission arm. And since Hurst and B&M are now owned by the same company......:LOL: :LOL:

thanks guys, I'll do that. I think i read that it comes with some clamps to attach it under the floorboard. if not I have something I can use. I'm going to order it today.

Red

Well i think it's going to work, the problem with the Lokar shifter is the way they have it "programmed". All that need to be done is to reprogram the shifter to let you bang second from first then bush the botton hold and hit third. I was able to add stops as needed and after the install it works flawless. Who said you can't bang gears with a Lokar??:LOL:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r299/jeep454/002.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r299/jeep454/009.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r299/jeep454/010.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r299/jeep454/005.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r299/jeep454/011.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r299/jeep454/012.jpg

Hey that looks good except the reverse is not very pronounced or positive. If it works itworks. I like your ingenuity. :toocool:

Kitz

Thats what i was planning on doing to modify my shifter... Was that piece (the flat one with the indents) you have cut using a laser cutter, if not how did you have that piece cut?

Also another question does the lokar shifter for a 700r4 have an indent for the overdrive or is that controlled via the lock up on the convertor? im having trouble working that out...

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Originally Posted by kitz

Hey that looks good except the reverse is not very pronounced or positive. If it works itworks. I like your ingenuity. :toocool:

Kitz

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I move very very slow when in reverse.:D

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Originally Posted by FATNLO

Thats what i was planning on doing to modify my shifter... Was that piece (the flat one with the indents) you have cut using a laser cutter, if not how did you have that piece cut?

Also another question does the lokar shifter for a 700r4 have an indent for the overdrive or is that controlled via the lock up on the convertor? im having trouble working that out...

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I had it cut out on a water jet then i used a small file to tune it after clamping it to the sider plate.