Thread: Break in

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I am about to fire up my newly rebuilt 454 and was wondering if pre oiling the engine through the distributor hole is "that" necessary. Also I have read this article and was wondering if anyone else has used this method?
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Thanks

Sounds like a quack to me. If this method worked so well, all the big name mechanics and engine builders would be using it. Just run the engine normally, drive it like you drive it every day. Accelerate, decelerate, just do what you always do. It will be fine.

Yes, pre-oil using the adapter thru the distributor hole. Keep going until you see oil coming out of the tops of the push rods. When you first start the engine is the very worst time for engine wear, and making sure it's pre oiled is important. Also, make sure you have the timing set as close to right as you can, and gas in the bowls of the carb so that it starts right away. Grinding away at the starter is going to wipe the lube off of the cam and lifters. The engine should start right away if at all possible.

a former co-worker of mine would break in his 1/4 mile mustang mustang motor by running it though all 4 gears at 6 grand. "there - its broke in" he would say

The most important part of the break in is the initial start up. All the cam manufacturers recomend running the engine at 2000 RPM for 15 minutes. Make sure your timing is set right, then follow this procedure. After the initial 15 minute run in, change the oil and filter. The majority of new cam and lifter failure is improper break in.

The article you had the link to has some good information. When I rent dyno time for a new engine, we use basically the same procedure.

I agree with the thread 100%....
I have built 1000's of engines and DO notice and engine broke in hard and drivin hard will have more power than an exact same engine just drivin normal!

I agree with the theory.....An engine needs to make heat to make power and it make most of it's heat on break in....

most racing engines that are Dyno'd are broken in on the Dyno. A quick warm-up and three 1/2 throttle pulls in quick succession to check timing and what-not then straight on to the full-pulls. After the first full pull it should be fully broken in...

I have a "Run-in" stand that I built myself to brake in engine (mostly chevy's) And I agree the first few minutes is criticle to ring seal and cam break in if you use a flat tappet cam...

Cam break in the rpm should be constantly varied from 2000-3500rpm for the first 5-10 minutes then add 500rpm up till 5500rpm still constantly varying rpm....

The Cam relies on "splash" oiling for lubricant, meaning, the only thing that lubes the cam is splash of the crankshaft. Holding the rpm still will result in a still splash line and varying the rpm will insure splash oil all the way up and down a camshaft....

Also you should note....the cam get no oil at idle or vary darn little and thats why ALL cam tech recommend to avoid excessive idling with a flat tappet cam.

I'm starting to like roller cams more every day.

mee too.

big blocks chevy's are more prone to flat tappet cam failures than small blocks? not sure why and usually the back 2 cylinders?

That why I like rollers so much....you can't kill em' from extended idling....in all the engines I have done I have lost 6 cams....they will replace them for free....but your out labor and any other parts....enjoy