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10-13-2005 07:11 AM #16
when i set a crank i like to be +.0002 or-0002 .and OR would be my size do not think you will see this with plastic .room temp 70 + and the mics to i have seen plastic it to be off but do wath you want. i will use my mics
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10-13-2005 07:14 AM #17
you cant mic. a shaft in the car.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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10-13-2005 07:49 AM #18
not many of the stuff i work on you can get the pan off and you must have a point that is the same to know were you are going with the clearance you are taking up .do not make fun about me i know where my clearance are and i do not have a lab or a lab coat BUT this is were i like to be dead on so when it the engine come down. i look at the bearings i and tell were i want the running clearance at so HA do not check your running clearance this close i do not give a dam i am telling you how i do it and Denn where are you keep that mic that it is geting that warm ??
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10-13-2005 08:02 AM #19
plasti-gauge, now thats a word you don't hear to often anymore. not to long ago we did most of our motor overhauls in the car, you would get, if you was lucky about 80,000 to 100,000 miles on the new motor, then you would do a ring job and get another 60,000 to 75,000 out of the block before you pulled the motor out and had it bored and new pistons put in. we didn't have any mic.,(you couldn't get the mic.'s to the shaft in the car) so we used plasti-gauge to determine how much the crank was worn and you could buy .001, .002 and i think .003 oversized bearings to take up the slack. you could also use shim stock to shim the bearings out, if you couldnt get oversized bearings. if the block was worn to bad we would have the pistons knurled so the pistons wouldn't knock. sometimes you had no way to knurl the pistons, so you drove it with the piston knock.( now these was the good old days). this is a little write up about plasti-gauge .
this is how it started pat. what you use it for is one thing, and what i was talking about is another. it works for both. you've never done what i'm talking about probably. i'm talking overhaul in car, used to be the SOP.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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10-13-2005 08:23 AM #20
yes i have i just laid under a freinds vett that on low 9 and put a set of lower in . and denn i do know that .but the mic is in my hands not my forhead. and of this lab .all my stuff is set in the same places i have work on car and boats i did got start yesterday. but the way my back is. the all the stuff i have to take pills just to try to make a living i do not lay under car on cold shop floors .i do not think you know me that is ok but i do not need crap i like to do the best i can and i use mic.
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10-13-2005 08:54 AM #21
pat, after i get my shaft and rods back from the machine shop and put the shaft in the block the last thing im gonna do is check my bearing clearances, and the only way i know how to do it is with plasti-gauge. you cant use a mic. to check the rod or main bearing clearances that i know of.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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10-13-2005 04:19 PM #22
no i do not. you have35 years.i do not know what to say here ? do my rod recon with the same mics. and dial bore gage for the final.i do 90% of my machine work. i can hear you say big deal ? it is to me . as fare as what i use as my tools. i am as proud of them as my cars. my mic s are mitutoyo and the bodys are insolated so you would have to be dam hot to get it to read different and my dail bores are sunnen and mitutoyo and to finsh off i have starrett. federal. stuff mercruy balanced protractor i bore and hone with all of them same mics as i do all work at the shop. it gets check with all the same tools to finshed.I never said much when i signd on so here i go a bit about me i have done body work. and welding for31years and machine shop work20 years lathe and mill.i have done metal finsh work .no bond .lead work and painted and have built engines that long to alot of big block from 396to632+tall and short decks. small blocks to four supercharged engines up to 548 and one duel turbo 540 with a lenco trans and i have built some steet rods and for 10 years built headers and work on ford 9 s set alot of them up for drag cars my engine work has to be rigth it get ran very hard evey thing i do get check many times no chance of fuze
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10-13-2005 06:07 PM #23
i prefer not to take about fiberglass and smc i have did way to much of that i wanted to keep it short but i have painted air planes arobatices type. and sprayed lots of bad types of paints. have the lungs to prove it. and welding i have a linoln 275 tig i can blow all the fuse out of the shop withhave a 250X miller mig and some old flat belt stuff a very old carrolin jaimson 14 swing lathe and 36 oliver bad saw and a j head brigeport and a sunnen rod machine and storm vunlcan block master and some neway and sioux air and electric vavle stuff what i can not buy for a good deal i make. like my honing machine to hone block out in works geat
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10-13-2005 06:32 PM #24
hit the wrong key. i screw up.I did think you were. but i some times a i have to vent hot headed IRISHMAN .ya i worked hard and not smart and have the body of a very old man
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10-13-2005 06:45 PM #25
ouch
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10-13-2005 07:30 PM #26
Originally posted by DennyW
I thought you thought that. That's when I looked close at the smilie guys. Don't feel bad on the Irishman. I'm Irish, Dutch, and Cherokee, And, I'm a Scorpio to boot.
now we know the truth, why you're so screw up. i'm gonna put my plasti-gauge back in my tool box and go home.Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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