Thread: Engine Combo

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HP is my only vice...

Check out this Dyno Proven Combo. Feedback is appreciated.
506CI Stroke 4.250" Rod Ratio 1.50
HP 580@ 6000 TORQ 569@4500

High Nodular 4.250 Stroker Crank
Forged I-Beam 6.385 Rods. ARP Wav Loc Bolts
Probe Forged Dome Pistons (18cc dome) small
Pro-Top Line, Pro Thunder Heads (Iron) 320 Intake Runner 119 Chamber CC's Swirl Polished SS Valves
Comp Xtreme Energy Cam .574/578 Lift 240*/246* @.50
110 L/Center Comp Full Roller
Comp Magnum Push Rods 3.8 .080 Wall
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake Maifold
Edelbrock 800CFM Performer Carb.

What do you guys think...Any changes..Suggestions...Thanks

Sounds good to me. The main thing in your post is that this one is confimed on a dyno, not just a bunch of guess work and opinions. Dyno results are hard to argue with......

I see this is your first post, welcome to CHR !!!!

Thanks for the up vote Dave.. This will be approx $ 6500.00 sound right?

Should make good power from about 3,000 to 6,500 rpm's. You'll need a loose converter, somewhere around 3,000 stall for a street motor, a little looser than that together with some gear for a drag motor in my opinion.

Your static c.r. will be 10.109:1 with this combo assuming 0.030" over, a 9 cc gasket volume and zero deck, so the cam you listed will be right at the top end of the scale. You may not build maximum achievable cylinder pressure with this combo, but you've got enough cubic inches to make up for it. Using a piston/head clearance of around 0.045" to 0.050" (0.035" to 0.040" on a small block, but the rat has a bigger bore than a small block, so the piston has more room to rock in the bore), you should be able to operate on cat piss pump gas.

It's like Dave said, it's hard to argue with dyno results. Usually when the magazine guys do a dyno thrash, they'll try 2 or 3 different cams, manifolds and carbs.

Now, some of you guys on here are gonna figure the c.r. for yourselves and you may not get my same figure. With a domed piston, you have to deduct the dome volume from the cylinder volume to arrive at a true cylinder volume upon descent of the piston. (.7854 x 4.280" x 4.280" x 4.250" x 16.387 = 1,002 cc's in the cylinder....but wait....the dome occupies 18 cc's of volume and it is attached to the piston top, so when the piston descends, the amount of mixture drawn in will be 1,002 less 18 = 984 cc's in the cylinder.

So we would add 984 and 119 and 9 and get 1,112 cc's in all available spaces. This will compress into the gasket of 9 cc's and the combustion chamber volume of 101 cc's (because now, the piston dome is in the chamber taking up volume so we have to deduct the 18 cc from the 119 cc chamber).
1,112 divided by 110 = 10.10:1

Thanks Richard,

Your numbers are right there. This motor combo with Blk HT 9.780" Zero Deck W/ 119cc Open Chamber Heads = 10.19:1
Zero Deck W/ 110cc Closed Chamber Heads = 11.0:1

Any suggestions or changes ? How do you guys feel about 2 Bolt Mains? On this package.. This is a Race shop that I know the Owner. Very reputable, after I build motor they will dyno tune in their shop (included) Carl Renezeder uses their motors, won two stright Corr Pro 2 Championships. These guys know how to make power. I just would like to get yall's opinion.

Hi new-velle,
if your getting 506 ci with a 4.25 crank, then you must have a 4.35 bore. What kind of block are you gonna use? I've read that a standard 454 with a 4.25 bore can only safely be taken .060 over. The tall deck truck blocks can be taken .125 over, so you could safely get the 4.35 bore with the truck block. Or are you going with a bow-tie block?

Sounds like the $ savings is in the block. The ZZ502 features 4 bolt mains and forged 1052 crank which is slightly more robust compared to the 2-bolt/cast combo.

However, the lower ends on 2-bolt cast crank BBC's are typically plenty good for 650+ horsepower. The price you gave is extremely attractive. I have a comparable ZZ502 with about a 50 HP upgrade via porting/cam combo at just under $9500.

Looks good to me ..................

Regards, Kitz

Originally posted by mikekgvk
Hi new-velle,
if your getting 506 ci with a 4.25 crank, then you must have a 4.35 bore. What kind of block are you gonna use? I've read that a standard 454 with a 4.25 bore can only safely be taken .060 over. The tall deck truck blocks can be taken .125 over, so you could safely get the 4.35 bore with the truck block. Or are you going with a bow-tie block?

stock gm block i have bore them to .100 over but i would not do it. it will be junk. 0.060 over would be better if looking for cid run a 4.310 bore and 4.375 stroke and get 510cid and keep the walls from moving and keeping the pistons rings hooked up and on the tall decks this is not true some of the tall decks will not take the.125 bore and over bore more than 0.060 need to be check on all gm blocks. less you have a bow tie than go to 4.500 to4.560

Originally posted by new-velle
Check out this Dyno Proven Combo. Feedback is appreciated.
506CI Stroke 4.250" Rod Ratio 1.50
HP 580@ 6000 TORQ 569@4500

High Nodular 4.250 Stroker Crank
Forged I-Beam 6.385 Rods. ARP Wav Loc Bolts
Probe Forged Dome Pistons (18cc dome) small
Pro-Top Line, Pro Thunder Heads (Iron) 320 Intake Runner 119 Chamber CC's Swirl Polished SS Valves
Comp Xtreme Energy Cam .574/578 Lift 240*/246* @.50
110 L/Center Comp Full Roller
Comp Magnum Push Rods 3.8 .080 Wall
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake Maifold
Edelbrock 800CFM Performer Carb.

What do you guys think...Any changes..Suggestions...Thanks

i would go with custom push rods so you get the rigth length.and run a team G intake on it