Thread: 505 build up
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06-30-2006 04:51 PM #16
Use of the engine
My primary use for the engine would be cruising the streets and laying tire. I am not planning to run engine past 6000 rpm, in fact 6000 rpm would be the outer limits that this engine would ever see. To be perfectly honest, my goal with this engine is 550 hp, and lots of torque. I am not looking for high RPM's and massive horsepower numbers, just a good running street engine with lots of torque.
How much does a machine shop usually charge to grind bigger valves into a set of heads and do a valve job? How much to install new valve guides?
thanks,
mike
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06-30-2006 06:05 PM #17
well i am a machine shop and i just did a set to 2.190 and 1.880 and the $$ has alot to do with the shape of the guides and if you want harden ex seats you can not cut them out for big valves if the guides are loose so then you need new guides and they will have to be bowl out to if not done the big valves will not do much. if you want low end why not put a 4.500 crank in it 535 cid this will roast your tires to the rims and would cost the same or use a 4.375 crank 520 cidIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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07-01-2006 12:36 PM #18
Ya know, if you wont be spinning this engine that high, you probably wont even see the advantages of the larger valves. With a stroker of any size, be it 505 or 540, you will likely meet your 550 HP goal, and the same or more torque, so Im sure you will be happy. I dont know that I would even go thru the expense of installing bigger valves. Yes, the bigger cubes will need more air, but at cruizing rpms, and up to 5K or even higher, I dont know that it will matter. Maybe Pat can shed more light on this aspect. At any rate, I had a set of 781's done a few years ago, larger valves, 3 angle valve job, new guides, cut the guides down for higher lift cam (you might have to do this also), milled about .020, a little bowl blending. As I remember, it came out to around $750.00, and I supplied the new valves. He supplied anything else, and of course the machine work. Remember, you can buy a new set of aftermarket iron heads for 1G bare, or about $1350 or a little more, complete. So think hard about putting money into those GM heads. Pat, what do you think about the valve size? Im assuming stock valves are in there, 2.06/1.72's....they still flow pretty good as is.When your dreams turn to dust, Vacuum!
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07-01-2006 06:19 PM #19
2.06/ 1.72 yes that sound right .the big valve size at very low speed will not do to much i think .on a small bore engine BUT if you are going up on cid i would at least run the big valves2.190-1.880 with the bigger cid on the smaller396- 454 i have not seen much with the bigger valves. but a good bowl job and back cut valves will help alot with small valves. so this is for me hard to say i will put it like this bigger valves help with doing the older heads if the seat are hammer out or you need to put a new guides in the heads not a liner or a thin wall guide if i put new seat in the ex side i go right to 1.880 ex and use a seat for that valve and rework the short side radii what you have to do is see you much money you want to put in them $500to$700 i would say you could be at . for me all of machine work is free .i do it so only coast me my time. but it gets old picking iron out of your eyes or lifting them heads up and down all day when you can go out and by some heads that will do the job and have a better Ex portIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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07-03-2006 08:21 PM #20
pictures of my intake
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07-03-2006 09:03 PM #21
ok looks good. maybe we can do somethingIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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