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Thread: What can I expect? (New 454)
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    1JohnnyO is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    On the tranny, looks like about 10 qts altogether....but just add a few at first, then the rest while the engine is running after the break-in period. Just keep checking it so you dont over fill it. Do you know if the converter was filled as much as possible before it was slipped on? This will make a pretty big difference.
    When your dreams turn to dust, Vacuum!

  2. #17
    Aster's Avatar
    Aster is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 30 Ford Coupe
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    Don't forget that gas is biodegradable. It turns to vanish and has a ransom smell to it. That vanish will end up in the fuel injectors or carb jets and circuits. If it's been in the tank for six months, drop the tank and take it to a radiator shop for cleaning if necessary. If the tank has the electric pump in it, change the sock while your in there. If it's elec. the price of a new pump isn't that much. I always have the tank cleaned on my rebuilds. Think of it this way, you've probably spent some bucks on that motor so why cheap out now? Good luck!

  3. #18
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    on breaking in the cam you need to do every thing you can to get this started right up and not crank it so dump the gas put it in your driver put new in the tank. on big blocks with flat cams have done many soild and hyd and have seen them go bad . the way i see it there three thing can make the cam go south 1 was cheap lifters out there coming form over seas and alot of the cam companys where using them .2 the blocks there off from gm this happens more on the older blocks 74 to 77 a round there but have seen mark 5 block wipe to some of the lifter bore holes are not where they should be and the lifters will not spin 3 getting it to start right up you need oil spash but if the face of the lifter face is to coarse it will wipe with all the molly you can pile on .and i will add on hi lift cam soild or hyd flat with a lot of spring pressure at very low idle your will get very little oil splash. i will not use an flat cam on any big block that i build or sell all are roller soild or hyd .i have seen to many done right and fail .the three things i listed i feel are the ones that will hang you if have every thing is right. hear are all the thing that should be check. like coil bind . valve to guid or where the valve seals is clearances . pistons to valve.rockers to studs her are some more like working the side of the lifter with 600 wet dry so there are no sharp spots . run a flex hone thru all lifter holes i do this on all engines make sure the lifter can turn in the bore i check this before in build the engine. i lube them up and i have used hi lube lifters and have sanded the faces of the lifters with 600 or 400 wet dry with wd40. run a lite valve springs on break in .i set all lifters with the intake is off this helps on hyd and soild cams. you can see the clips in the hyd lifter and check the push rod cup is down off the clip when lash is set on the hyd lash i give them 1/2 turn i have never had to go thru any hyd cams when i have done them this way and i can see the base circle this helps on the soild to set lash to set the lifters. and when priming and roll the engine. run a light viscosity oil . and when all is done hope it will not wipe
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 07-27-2006 at 08:45 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  4. #19
    DET45 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thank you for the advice, The torque converter is dry so how much fluid should I put into before placing it into the trans......

  5. #20
    Aster's Avatar
    Aster is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If you bought a new TC don't you have that information? Why don't you ask the manufacturer that question? I'm not trying to be a smart ass (I don't have to try ) but I see people come on here all the time asking important and good question such as this, however, the manufacturer is the best source. They are the ones who back the warranty not CHR. Good luck with your build and please keep us posted. Good thread!

  6. #21
    DET45 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I bought the torque converter at summitracing. It came in a plain white box with no instructions. The torque converter had (turbo 350 / 11 inch / 2500 stall) stamped on it. The converter is made by hugues. Again thanks for your advice.

  7. #22
    1JohnnyO is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    You can only get so much into the TC, because when you lift it up to slide it onto the trans shaft, you dont want the fluid to spill out and get wasted. Just fill it as much as you can, without the about mentioned happening. Some people dont fill it at all, it will fill when you start the car, the pump will fill everything up. But I think it's a good idea to get some fluid in it first. John
    When your dreams turn to dust, Vacuum!

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