Thread: Pullin a wheelie!
-
11-03-2003 12:41 PM #16
trans-brake and put your two step at 7 grand, might work haha.
really i dont know, im thinking putting weight in the trunk just to see if i can do it, the front end of my car just like bounces but for about 50 ft but wont pull the wheels, all that with a small block. anyone wanna recommend a concrete company
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
11-03-2003 05:40 PM #17
why a 427 tall deck? why not just go with a 454 from the get go?
-
11-03-2003 05:46 PM #18
Hey Streets, wish I had a pic of the "Might Mav" after 1 too many hard landings!! Talk about some twisted up suspension peices and body tin..... I've learned since that is much more efficient (and economical) to launch with the front wheels just dustin the launch pad. The Mavrick I referred to had a stroker 351W with a Doug Nash 5 speed and all the wrong rear suspension. Was fun to drive, but broke lots of parts.......... Been there, done that ???? Friend of mine had an Anglia with about 10" of motor set-back, it left straight and hard......Straight up and hard left !!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
11-03-2003 06:36 PM #19
why a 427 tall deck? why not just go with a 454 from the get go? doesn't putting a 454 crank in a 427 just make it a 454?
-
11-03-2003 09:32 PM #20
huh?, sorry but i'm not sure what your talking about?
-
11-03-2003 11:31 PM #21
Originally posted by techinspector1
The measurement from the centerline of the crank to the block deck surface is longer on the tall deck block, so if you put a 454 crank and pistons in it, the piston will be quite a ways down in the hole at top dead center. You can use this to your advantage by using longer rods to bring the piston crown up to the surface of the deck for a "zero deck". Longer rods will "dwell" the piston at top dead center for a longer period of time, allowing the mixture extra time to expand and apply a higher pressure to the piston. Long rods will also promote good ring sealing by pulling on the piston at less of an angle than short rods will, thus not cocking the piston in the bore as much as a short rod will. I'm not sure if that is what you didn't understand or not. Maybe it was the rod/stroke ratio thing. You can determine the ratio of any combination of stroke and rod length and the higher the number, the more power the motor will make, according to Smokey. Let's take some different combinations for instance. A 283 Chevy has a rod length of 5.700" and a stroke of 3.000". Divide 3 into 5.7 and you get a rod/stroke ratio of 1.9 If we increase the stroke to 3.25 and call it a 327, the ratio changes to 1.75 Further increasing the stroke to 3.480" with the same rods gives our 350 Chevy a ratio of 1.638 Hope this makes sense to you.
-
11-04-2003 12:18 AM #22
If you're willing to spend 6 grand on a rotating assembly, those tall deck blocks are good for well over 600 cubic inches.
-
11-04-2003 07:46 AM #23
ok, i think i get it now. is there a tall deck 454? if there is than why go with the tall deck 427/454 crank?
-
11-04-2003 12:55 PM #24
There is no difference between a 427 and a 454 block. A 427 can be made into a 454 by changing the crank and vice versa. The tall deck 427 was used in commercial trucks and was never made as a 454, but the block is exactly the same as a tall deck 454 would be.
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird