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11-23-2006 12:53 PM #1
454 Help
Hello Everyone, I'm new to this site, looks like a great site.
I built my first big block this year, For mud racing only.
But need more power,Don't get me wrong it ran great just need alittle more.
If you all could look over my specs, and give me some input.,That would be great. also going to have the heads ported & polished and larger valves installed this winter. and put in a bigger (if possible not sure about clearance prob.) roller cam, and goto a preditor carb. Let me know what think.
Well here goes.
454 2 Bolt Block
STD bore TRW Speed pro Dome Pistons W/ Moly Rings (dome= 0.340)
Large oval port heads (Closed Chamber) O-Ringed 100.9cc
Copper head gaskets
Motor is completely ARP Studded
Scat 9000 Crank STD./STD.
Stock Rods W/ arp Bolts
Clevite 77 HX Racing Bearings
Comp- Cam, Double roller timing set, pushrods, lifters, springs
roller rockers
arp rocker studs
stud girdles
moroso tall alum valve covers W/ 1.5" spacers under them (needed more room under valve covers)
Edelbrock-victor intake single plane
dominator to 4150 adapter
Holly 850 DP W/ adjustable main jet plates
melling high volume oil pump
moroso 9qt oil pan and pick up
arp oil pump shaft
MSD pro billit dist.
taylor 10.4mm racing wires
cvr Elec. water pump
billit water neck W/ restricter plate
cast alum timing cover (also has comp roller cam button installed)
High Torque Starter
Schoenfeild 2-1/8 upright headers W/ Evac tubes
18" elec. fan on radiator
Moroso 5" air filter W/ foam wrap
Camshaft Specification Table
Part Number 11-220-4
Engine 1965-1996 Chevrolet
396ci-454ci
8cyl.
Grind Number CB 306S-10
Description
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Intake Exhaust
Valve Adjustment 0.022 0.022
Gross Valve Lift 0.629 0.629
Duration At 0.015 Tappet Lift 306 306
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Valve Timing At 0.015
Open Close
Intake 47 79
Exhaust 87 39
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These Specs Are For The Cam Installed At 106 Intake CL
Intake Exhaust
Duration At 0.05 260 260
Lobe Lift 0.37 0.37
Lobe Separation 110
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Recommended Valve Springs 924-16
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11-23-2006 06:53 PM #2
Originally Posted by jeepin2day
If you base your max. rpm say around 7,200.The cam has a basic power band of 3000 to 7000 rpm's.I don't really understand about the 4,500 flange to a 4150, then you talk about a 850 dp.
The Dominator carb. is to large.
I would say a flowed 850 cfm carb would work better.
The 7,000+ rpm's on a cast steel crank makes me a little nervous but in the mud you won't have as much as a shock load as you would if it were a drag car.
In the mud I would guess you could get maybe two seasons out of a fully preped 3/8 rod at this rpm level.
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11-23-2006 09:16 PM #3
The cam I listed is what's in the motor now, I'm looking at changing to a roller cam and a little bit bigger.
Tha adapter is a dom. to a 4150
And i have a 850DP on the motor now.
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11-24-2006 07:42 AM #4
Originally Posted by jeepin2day
If it is an auto tranny what is you stall speed?
What is your gear ratio?
What is your tire height?
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11-24-2006 05:37 PM #5
Auto Tranny 3500-3800 Stall
4.56 gears front and rear
38.5 tire size
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11-24-2006 06:20 PM #6
Originally Posted by jeepin2day
You have the comp. ratio to run a larger cam but not the stall speed.
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11-25-2006 06:50 AM #7
what about going to 4-7 swap cam do they really help that much?
also what a preditor carb?
I also learned that power is in the heads, The heads i have are casting# 3964290
getting them ported and polished. larger valves also
I also want to thank everyone for the input, like i say this motor was my first build, and just not sure of a lot of things i just started buying parts that i thought a good race motor should have. and i have learned alot since then. just wanted to get a little more out of it...
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11-25-2006 06:15 PM #8
[QUOTE=jeepin2day]what about going to 4-7 swap cam do they really help that much?
also what a preditor carb?
I also learned that power is in the heads, The heads i have are casting# 3964290
getting them ported and polished. larger valves also
I also want to thank everyone for the input, like i say this motor was my first build, and just not sure of a lot of things i just started buying parts that i thought a good race motor should have. and i have learned alot since then. just wanted to get a little more out of it...[/QUOTE.If money was no obect I would run a set of 305 cc AFR heads.
I would stick with the Holley carb.
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11-25-2006 08:45 PM #9
I am an engine builder specializing in Drag and Mud racing large cubic inch engines. Without a doubt you need to run a set of after market heads. Having the heads ported will help a ton, but I would try to put that money toward a new set. What are the rules for that class you race in? Steer clear of the preditor! a good holley will work light years better.
http://www.svrehorsepower.com
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11-25-2006 10:27 PM #10
nice to see a new face SVRE. i have built some big blocks engines for the mud all have worked very good .some better heads will help. i have some BFM heads if you need a set .for a good price?? that would make it scream. i would look at a much smaller lsa than 110 like 107to 108 try 260/270 651/677 .107 lsa #01486 crower. on the 3/8 rods there is a set in a 468 that have seen alot of years used in the mud and were in street car. BUT you may want to buy some H beams the cast steel crank dose not scare me at all. BUT if you are going to spray this ?????? buy some better partsLast edited by pat mccarthy; 11-25-2006 at 10:31 PM.
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11-26-2006 08:07 AM #11
Thanks Pat. I build for a lot of guys that race the NMRO circut ranging from 505ci to 660ci. Some of the classes I must maintain a conventional style head becouse of the rules and I use Pro Topline 360's ported in house. We have them from 440cfm-460cfm and usually make between 900-1000 depending on the aplication. All so far have been single carb cast manifold. I agree on narrowing the lobe sep. With the engine and the duration being that small, it will like it tighter.
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11-26-2006 03:02 PM #12
I would like to go to a set of alum. heads, but just don't have the funds for that.
Sounds like i need to stick to my holly carb. is a 850dp a big enough carb, Also thought about a dominator.
What would the heads i have now be worth ? casting # 3964290
They was just gone through at the machine shop about 5 months ago, They have only been run maybe 5 hours tops. and i had o-rings put in them.
If i could get enough out of these heads i might be able to go alum.
I know where i can get a set of canfields with a 310cc runner for 1000.00
bare heads. just don't know what it would cost to get all the machine work done, plus the cost of the parts.
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11-26-2006 04:27 PM #13
heads are not to much it is the time and parts SSvalves roller springs seals studs valve locks spring cups titanimun retainers and they will need some machine work i like to cut the deck some new heads have a bad finsh and i like to cut down the 45 s narrow them up .some times the valve seats are not to good .
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11-26-2006 08:21 PM #14
To answer your question about the 4/7 swap cam, No...it will not give you any more power, at least not anything measurable. Hi Pat, happy holidays! And hello SVRE, nice to see a new member, and a big block guy to boot!! Very cool. JohnWhen your dreams turn to dust, Vacuum!
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11-26-2006 08:30 PM #15
Originally Posted by S V R E
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