Thread: 396 375hp build question
-
12-21-2006 03:30 PM #1
396 375hp build question
Well it looks like I got my hands on a 454 block for me for Christmas, ho ho, but I got to get mama's 396 humming before I can start my buildup. I have the 3969854 block which shows 396/402, 69-72 use. The block says hi perf pass bossed into the block. I calipered it out to 4.11" across the top of the cylinders. Since this is only .007" above the std 396 bore, I can only assume I"m measuring the wear and its a std bore 396. I want to take it to the 375hp version. Can you tell me what the cam profile was on those, and compression. Was there a steel crank in those? And last but not least I have the 3999241 heads to work with. Will they work, or will 2.19's and a little bowl blending in order? Street car and b-day present for the wife. Thanks guys."oohh...thats gonna leave a mark!"
1997 s-10, 357 C.I., 350 turbo, speedpro 11:1,Comp Cam custom grind mech. roller, Canfield heads, 1.6 roller rockers, edelbrock tm-1, holley 750sp, Hooker Headers, MSD, 3K B&M stall, 4:11 gears
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
12-21-2006 04:51 PM #2
Originally Posted by jimmyjeep
I don't know the cam specs. but I would use a more modern cam grind.
If the crank has a wider parting line then it is the steel crank,if it has a narrow parting line then it is a cast crank.
-
12-21-2006 05:03 PM #3
The 375 HP 396 was the L-78 motor, with mechanical-lifter cam, large-port iron heads, 11:1 compression ration, 4-bolt mains, forged Tuftrided crank and forged pistons. 11:1 on the street today is a problem because of detonation.
The cam timing was 40-86/88-38 (306/306 duration at 0 lift), with .500/.500 lift. (Casting #3863143)
You've got the same block used in the L-78, but not the heads. The heads you have were used on the 396/275 HP LS-3 engine, have a larger combustion chamber and smaller valves.
Here's a link to a page with the full L-78 and LS-3 specs.
http://www.nastyz28.com/camaro/z27396.html
Cam grinders make reproductions of the cam, but there are probably better grinds out there for what you have.
I can tell you what you have, and what the L-78 had, but there are other folks who can tell you how to build a strong engine with your parts. Erik Erikson or Pat McCarthy.
Myself, I'd be wary of duplicating an engine for the street with solid lifters and an 11:1 compression ratio. You can get massive HP out of a BBC without going that direction. Get down around 9 to 9.5:1 with your heads and pick a good hydraulic cam, and you can get your 375 hp easily.Last edited by Henry Rifle; 12-21-2006 at 05:07 PM.
Jack
Gone to Texas
-
12-21-2006 05:30 PM #4
Thanks guys, I saw on a different site earlier tonight the info on the solid cam setup for those critters, no thanks. Your right, a good hydraulic cam around .500 or so and something domed to get me 9.5 to 10.0 should get me in the ball park (I'M TALKING YANKEE STADIUM HERE). If I'm barkin up the wrong tree, let me know. I like the 2.19 idea, if it wont kill my bottom end."oohh...thats gonna leave a mark!"
1997 s-10, 357 C.I., 350 turbo, speedpro 11:1,Comp Cam custom grind mech. roller, Canfield heads, 1.6 roller rockers, edelbrock tm-1, holley 750sp, Hooker Headers, MSD, 3K B&M stall, 4:11 gears
-
12-21-2006 07:21 PM #5
Personally, I'd go with about 9.5:1, do a good high-performance valve job on the stock size valves, replace the seats with hardened ones, and install a complete hydraulic cam and kit. Perhaps a cam with 220 to 230 duration (@0.050 lift) and 0.500 to 0.520 lift. The effective power range would be from 1500/2000 RPM to 5800/6000 RPM. I had good luck with the Comp Cams Magnum series - like the Magnum 270H - but it's a matter of choice.HYDRAULIC: Good for daily driven street machine, works with stock converter, likes headers. 396 needs 3.55-3.73 gear. Slight rough idle.Last edited by Henry Rifle; 12-21-2006 at 07:32 PM.
Jack
Gone to Texas
-
12-29-2006 05:18 AM #6
I am glad people are realizing....there is no'good pump gas fuel' and I will
agree 10/1s are stretching it as far as detonation..I had a sbc 350/4 bolt main
with 300 heads,had a crower 480 lift cam,great to drive and 89 octane to boot
on 9.8/1 compression!You are asking for trouble with true 11/1 compression..
engine maker try to get you to buy these'trouble makers'but you have to mix fuel
etc etc etc...to get octane up..nothing like a ping motor or laboring motor
that you can not fix 'even with timing addjustments' people need to live in the
'now' unless you l;ike headaches..GFD.....
-
01-17-2007 08:00 PM #7
Another easy way to tell if it's a forged crank or not is to hit the counter weight lightly with a hammer. If it sings like a chime it's forged, if it makes a "thud" sound it's cast.
I'm currently building a 396 350HP for my '69 El Camino. Block and heads are from '67, heads are closed chamber oval port, pistons are a 19cc dome, solid cam with 240@.050, 10-1 compression, ported heads flowed 270cfm @.550 lift, has the forged 366 truck crank(rebalanced), 750 holley, Air Gap RPM intake, desktop dyno said 480HP-490Torque not accomadating the port work. The heads also have the chambers polished so I'm hoping to run on 91 pump gas. Just can't wait to drop it in. Hope this info helps on your build.
-
01-18-2007 09:23 AM #8
Another easy way to tell if it's a forged crank or not is to hit the counter weight lightly with a hammer. If it sings like a chime it's forged, if it makes a "thud" sound it's cast.Jack
Gone to Texas
-
01-18-2007 01:43 PM #9
I agree with those that recommend the hydraulic cam and lower compression. To coin a trite phrase, "back in the day" I had the 427 version of that motor (L-72). It was my daily driver and it was a beast. Had to adjust the valves at least once a month, gulped high octane leaded fuel and went through plugs pretty fast. Back when banks had drive thrus, it would vibrate quarters right across the tray while I waited for the teller. It would definitely run hard, but like the others said we have come a long way in 35 years. I also think you are better off with the oval port heads for general street use. The square ports are great from 4000-6800+ but for throttle response on the street and power under the curve, a good set of ovals ports might be better.
Good on ya for building a hot rod for your sweety! I'd do one for mine if I thought she would drive it.
PatOf course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!
-
01-18-2007 05:27 PM #10
Originally Posted by 69elko
If I saw this in my shop I would have to use the hammer on someones head.
Like I said before wide "parting line" it is forged narrow "parting line" and it is a casting.
-
01-18-2007 05:39 PM #11
Originally Posted by erik erikson
-
01-18-2007 05:42 PM #12
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
No I would be to afraid someone would miss and hit a journal.
-
01-18-2007 06:52 PM #13
Originally Posted by erik eriksonLast edited by pat mccarthy; 01-18-2007 at 07:09 PM.
-
01-18-2007 07:11 PM #14
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
Before anyone ask's the librarian was not a man.
-
01-18-2007 07:14 PM #15
did you get book worms from her
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel