Thread: setting valve lash

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whats the best way to set valve lash from the beginning when you put new hyd-cam/lifters/rockers on

I set them before the intake goes on. That way, you can see when you have zero lash, and tell where the lifters are in the timing cycle.

One needs to follow the spec's for each engine they are working on. It is not the same for all cars. Yes , setting the intial lash is easier with the intake off but might needs to reset once the engine has been started. check engine spec's and look up instructions on computer and follow closely

Originally Posted by seansz28

whats the best way to set valve lash from the beginning when you put new hyd-cam/lifters/rockers on

What engine? The procedure is the same, but the order of adjustment depends on the firing order. Here's the summary:

1. Make sure all the adjusting nuts are very loose.
2. Bring the motor to #1 TDC.
3. On the intake valve, hold the pushrod with the fingers of one hand while tightening the lock nut until there is NO up/down play.
4. Tighten the nut 1/4 turn, slowly.
5. Tighten the nut another 1/4 turn, slowly.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 on the exhaust valve.
7. Rotate the engine 90 degrees, and repeat steps 3-6 on the next cylinder in the firing order.
8. Repeat the process until you've set all 8 cylinders.

If you do this carefully, you shouldn't have to readjust with the engine running.

It's easier if the intake is off, but it's not entirely necessary.

R Pope
Thats the way I've done it for a long time and very seldom had to ever touch them again.

I did mine as I assembled the engine with the intake off.As long as you are on the base circle of the cam ,you should not have to touch them after fire up.I have done it both ways now and both work fine.....in my situation I did not want a oil bath on all the shiney parts Its not actually that bad ...just a little smokey

If you'll cut the tops off an old set of valve covers, leaving the sides in place, you can idle the motor all day long without getting oil on anything. Just cut enough out so that you can get in there on all the rocker nuts with a socket.

I have covers with holes in them for Fords and Chevys. They work great for tune-ups, but when working on a new cam and lifters, I like to get them spot on before fire-up, so I can take it immediately to 2000 rpm for break-in. Don't want a new unburnished cam getting slapped by a loose lifter!

I see where they actually make 2 piece valve cover just for this and I was under the impression that the ones I bought did this ....but they were faux ones that just looked 2 piece.

About 20 years ago I got sucked in on buying clips 16 of the most worthless things in the automtive world. Not only does oil shoot pasted them but they fly off getting into places you don't want them . I still have them they look like they did the day I wasted my money on them.

The procedure is the same unless your dealing with a ALUMINUM-Head or ALUMINUM-BLOCK combo.your Cold-lash numbers will vary from your Hot-lash figures.ALUMINUM moves around when it get's hot.Example ALUMINUM-HEADS on CAST-Iron block or an all ALUMINUM engine.Just to be on the safe side check with your ( CAM-MANUFACTUER)for specific cold lash settings,that apply to your particular set-up.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

If you'll cut the tops off an old set of valve covers, leaving the sides in place, you can idle the motor all day long without getting oil on anything. Just cut enough out so that you can get in there on all the rocker nuts with a socket.

I have a set of small block valve covers I keep just for the same explanation tech listed above..but before I fire a motor up Ive always adjusted them just like Mr. rifle listed in an earlier post.