Thread: Machine Work $$$ ???

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There ain't any public automotive shops holding tolerances to under 0.0002. For a journeyman machinist I might buy 0.0005. This is above and beyond what you need for any street motor. If they say they do then it's all talk; they can't prove it. Not even if you check it on their machine. The push off on the last word indicator dial alone is more than that. Now if you set the block up on a high dollar CMM machine then you can check it. But that machine will run you $100k.

Kitz

Originally Posted by kitz

There ain't any public automotive shops holding tolerances to under 0.0002. For a journeyman machinist I might buy 0.0005. This is above and beyond what you need for any street motor. If they say they do then it's all talk; they can't prove it. Not even if you check it on their machine. The push off on the last word indicator dial alone is more than that. Now if you set the block up on a high dollar CMM machine then you can check it. But that machine will run you $100k.

Kitz

what you say ?????? (I need more money for my work) WELL i keep my bores below one 1/2 of a .001 you want to come over and watch me?? my sunnen ag-300 rod gauge reads in tenth s and the ga-2121 2-6 sunnen main bore gauge 12 deep and the gr-2241 for the mains you say 1/2 .001 well that on housing bores is to much but if you run a piston at .001 and your off at .0005 that is ok ??? or on a crank ? i build race engine and i can and do this and do. are you calling me a liar ?.if you want to say 5 tens is ok then 6 tens is ok i try to keep my rods at .0002 or less on size and 0002 tapper here is the deal they do give you a size on housing bores all most a full .001 now let say i do aset of rods and they are small to big a full .001 would you be happy with that?or on a line bore the same way ? when it can be better ? and you check and find you need 3 sets of main bearing and rods bearing s to get oil chearance to do the job and i say i have 7 tenths on the housing bores but well it was 9 tens and the crank is all up and down the same way to but hey it ok? how long could you tell guys this and do any work from any one ? i do my very best that i can do any my sunnen tools can read .i fit evey piston hone to fit less than 5 tenths from top to bottom of the bore . and no more than 3 tens off piston to bore and if get a new crank at 3 +tens of tapper on the journals i would not be happy . if you say 5 tenth s is ok ?? then you get a heavy stack on lets say 2 tenth s tapper on rod bore and 3 tens tapper on the bearing then your ok size on the crank 5 tenth s to big on the crank were is the oil clearance ? and it can go the other way to that is why i run every to i very low side not to 5tenth s on any thing in the mains or rods .i will move the bearing to get it right .but i do not know any thing by the way you do not need cnc to keep 5 tenth s it has been done all ago with out a 100k machines. i can keep less 1 thou on my old carroll jamieson flat belt lathe

Originally Posted by C9x

I'm curious why the "align/hone" was done?

Imo, not necessary in the great majority of cases.

On every single race engine or hi-performance street engine I build it will get a line hone.
Brand new Brodix,Dart,World,etc. need a small amount of line honing.

Now Pat for love of the Irish, no, I am not calling you a liar. For outside diameters such as measuring cranks and pins if you use a calibrated micrometer with a tenths vernier then you can resolve 2 tenths. For inside diameters you will need an ID micrometer (3 lobe type) with a tenths vernier, calibrated using its doughnut standard, and then you can resolve 2 tenths. If you are using a telescoping gage or simple ID mic as most shops do you are not going to routinely and accurately resolve 2 tenths. You could also use a dial bore gage with tenths resolution if you have the appropriate gage to set it up with.

When you align hone you can use your ID mics to verify the diameters but you cannot easily and accurately measure that the centers of each bore in the line are within 2 tenths of each other. As an experienced machinist though you know if it was set-up right it is as good as it can be.

And Pat you are at the top of a very short list for me the next time I need an engine built.

Kitz

the sunnen reads in tenths for rods it is made to do just rods it is call a AG300 and has 3 fingers that can be set off a std ring or a mic. the line hone this is a long sunnen GR-2241retractable bore gauges that reads in increments of .0001 and use a sunnen ga-2121 that reads in incrments of .0001 to check the AG-300 on rod s and any thing i want to get picky on .the bores i check with a sunnen bore gauge ga-2125 that reads in .0005 that will not move the gauge when i and done with the job. on cranks i O off the crank size set the bore gauge off the mic that gives me the size for oil and do it the same way on pistons

Careful Pat, you're giving away all your trade secrets. Let the customer come to you and enjoy your work. I find that too much info takes the customers mind to a different level and opens pandora's box. I like your integrity and workmanship as you described it. If it weren't for so darn much freight, I'd ship you my stuff. Especially since I just reaquired my old 68 Chevelle from high school and need the machine work done for the 540 I will put in it. Keep up the good work.

Originally Posted by nitrowarrior

Careful Pat, you're giving away all your trade secrets. Let the customer come to you and enjoy your work. I find that too much info takes the customers mind to a different level and opens pandora's box. I like your integrity and workmanship as you described it. If it weren't for so darn much freight, I'd ship you my stuff. Especially since I just reaquired my old 68 Chevelle from high school and need the machine work done for the 540 I will put in it. Keep up the good work.

no big deal i do not have to many secrets i will not tell .if it helps some one good . i am doing a 496 roller engine for a 68 chevelle rigth now .that 540 will be nice engine for your car that is cool you still have it.i like the 548 s i had.still have one i had my GTO when i was in hi school .it was my dads . my mom sold it when my dad past got it back in 79 or so i will never get rid of it

This old heap was aquired in High school. WHen I wanted to move on to a different world (NHRA) i decided to sell it to the son of the original owner. He sat on it for years literally and when he finally got into a bind and never touched it, I finally got him to relinquish back to me at a bargain. Many years waiting because of the sentimental value of it. I have the stuff for the 540, that's why I chose it. I would like to do a '48 but since I have the pieces, what the hey I'll do the '40. Now I have two more targets and 1 is a Henry J and 2, a 70 SS CHevelle like I use to own. Henry J will get a big boy and if I find the right 70 'velle, I'll probably keep it at no more than 502 or around there. I've been on cloud nine since the re-aquireing of my old stomping machine, wife is gonna kick me out and it took a lot of persuading to have her agree to the purchase. Yeah, like I need another project.....

no wife or girl friend .just my dog and my big block donovans

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

no wife or girl friend .just my dog and my big block donovans

Well, it's a good dog, anyway./......

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Well, it's a good dog, anyway./......

yes he is trying to get him to help out at the shop but he can not hang on to them tools with them small paws

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

yes he is trying to get him to help out at the shop but he can not hang on to them tools with them small paws

Get him some bigger tools!!!! Pepper (my Cocker Spaniel) really likes the good Snap-on ones with the big covered handles, thinks they make great chew toys.....Great lesson for me on putting tools back in the box!!!!!!

turn them back in snap-on should cover that ???

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

turn them back in snap-on should cover that ???

Snap-on John (my tool guy for the last 26 years) has assured me that not even Snap-on makes plastic and rubber handles that are puppy proof!!!!!

Originally Posted by nitrowarrior

Chris wanna share who it is......I'm not gonna bad mouth.....I know Denver metro and surrounding ares very well and was just curious.

Work was done at Ridge Reamer in Arvada... I understand his prices have been steadily climbing over the past few months...