Thread: I'm going to wear this 427 thing out.

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Really folks....I've been reading for days. My eyeballs are gettin sore

I was hoping Pat McCarthy would step in?

Does anyone think any of these remans would give me a good start on a big block build? I might add fuel injection much later as $'s come my way. For now I'm thinking about the 427 (love the revs) mated to a 700R4. Going in a 36 Chevy Lowcab Pickup. Max Hp less than 500 HP. I've kind of lost interest in the LS1/4L60E. Too much for me right now. Maybe next year. I need to get this thing rolling in the next 6 months (fingers crossed).

I assume one of these might have a steel crank. It was suggested by a friend to try to stay away from the tall decks? I assume that has to do with the shape (spark pattern?) of the combustion chambers. Oh.....I feel ignorant!

Does anyone know where I can cross reference these part numbers myself?
A local chevy mechanic?

Reman / Core $/ Shipping

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 66-69 Passenger Cars DC86 $1,590 $2,700 $265*

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 69-84 Truck , with bosses
on head for a/c mount, block#220, 776, 478, 470,
521, head#865,, 765, 771, 772, 328 DCF1 $1,590 $600 $265*

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 85-90 Truck, without water
cooled air brake compressor, block#220, 776,
478, 470, 521, head #359 DCF2 $1,890 $800 $265*

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 85-90 Truck, with water
cooled air brake compressor, block#220, 776,
478, 470, 521, head#359, 052 DCF3 $1,890 $800 $265*

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 91-94 Truck, TBI,
block#10114184, crank#10114189, full
circle rear seal DCF4 $1,890 $800 $265

I'll toss in a bit of info if I recall correctlly! Tall decks were/are sought after by racers cuz of the longer rod configuration they can run (I think...). There was an old book out in the 80's called "How to rebuild your bigblock chevy" that had a BIG list of casting numbers for reference. I have some reference materials as well if you want to pm me some part numbers I can look for you. I like the 427s myself! Steel crank isn't really a nessesity for a street car unless you plan on pounding it all the time or running nitrous. Closed chamber heads are nice (ie EXPENSIVE) but again, for a mild stret motor or driver, open chambered are fine. PAW (performance autoparts warehouse) offers several kits for rebuilds from stock to Blower motor performance, so you can get an idea of "hop-up" prices there (thats who I ALWAYS used). If its going in a '36 p-up, a STOCK 427 would probably move that pretty good!! Good luck and if I can help with any of those numbers, just ask!

all you need is a 454 block with a 366-427 crank look s like all them blocks are tall deck but the first one so at that point why stop at 427 the added work to get the big deck block to fit in?? i would go to 525 can be done with the older tall deck as for a hi revs. i have had big engine hi rev fine but with more rpm there is a price to pay . i know you want a 427 but a 454 030or060 would do just fine, guys like the tall decks for more room for more crank so you can run a longer rod a 4.500 crank fits in just fine. short deck is 9.800 deck and about the max is a 4.375 crank and the tall deck is 10.200 and in a stock block will take a4.500 crank or go to a bowtie or other dart world 4.600 bore and crank 4.750 will get you a 632 .and you can go just abit bigger then you need a taller deck for the 700cid blocks

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

all you need is a 454 block with a 366-427 crank look s like all them blocks are tall deck but the first one so at that point why stop at 427 the added work to get the big deck block to fit in?? i would go to 525 can be done with the older tall deck as for a hi revs. i have had big engine hi rev fine but with more rpm there is a price to pay . i know you want a 427 but a 454 030or060 would do just fine, guys like the tall decks for more room for more crank so you can run a longer rod a 4.500 crank fits in just fine. short deck is 9.800 deck and about the max is a 4.375 crank and the tall deck is 10.200 and in a stock block will take a4.500 crank or go to a bowtie or other dart world 4.600 bore and crank 4.750 will get you a 632 .and you can go just abit bigger then you need a taller deck for the 700cid blocks

How bout this one Pat?

454 standard deck, 3.760 crank, 4.375 bore. Too much bore for a Gen 4 454? I'll keep searching too. I assume the newer blocks are all tall decks (for the trucks) ? If I went with the tall deck I guess I shouldnt have trouble finding the longer rods for the 3.760 stroke and 4.375 piston combo? I do like the idea of the 1 piece rear main. Plus sides to using the newer blocks besides 4 bolt mains? Thanks for your time Pat.

Thank you,
David

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 66-69 Passenger Cars DC86 $1,590 $2,700 $265*

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 69-84 Truck , with bosses
on head for a/c mount, block#220, 776, 478, 470,
521, head#865,, 765, 771, 772, 328 DCF1 $1,590 $600 $265*

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 85-90 Truck, without water
cooled air brake compressor, block#220, 776,
478, 470, 521, head #359 DCF2 $1,890 $800 $265*

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 85-90 Truck, with water
cooled air brake compressor, block#220, 776,
478, 470, 521, head#359, 052 DCF3 $1,890 $800 $265*

CHEVY 7 427 V8 - 91-94 Truck, TBI,
block#10114184, crank#10114189, full
circle rear seal DCF4 $1,890 $800 $265



Is $2700 really the core price of that first 427? I guess they are getting pretty rare... You can always find a 454 standard block and a 3.76 stroke crank and make a 427. It would come out cheaper than getting one of those reman blocks especially with the core charge.

Originally Posted by Stovebolter

How bout this one Pat?

454 standard deck, 3.760 crank, 4.375 bore. Too much bore for a Gen 3 454? I'll keep searching too. I assume the newer blocks are all tall decks (for the trucks) ? If I went with the tall deck I guess I shouldnt have trouble finding the longer rods for the 3.760 stroke and 4.375 piston combo? I do like the idea of the 1 piece rear main. Plus sides to using the newer blocks besides 4 bolt mains? Thanks for your time Pat.

Thank you,
David

well i have blocks that will go to 4.625 in short 9.800 and tall 10.200 but why would you bore a stock block out to 4.375 ? no not a good ideal the new block are not as good as the old mark 4 blocks and like i said you can use a 454 block and a 3.76 crank but at the end of the day cid rules less rpm less wear on the upper end valve train and more TQ 427 is not very popular of a build i know this is what you want but the 427 block go for big money so are the 454 are getting hard to find any that have not been run thru the mill and all beat to hell . for all the added work for a 427 tall deck it is just not worth the money i feel less you build the cid up to a 525 or so . for the added money to build your short deck 427 you could go out and build a cast steel crank hpyer piston 496 i know you do not want one ? but the 427 will not be that good bang for the buck and if you find a 454 you can build a 468 they can run very good to .i have no clue were you want to be at on money? so i can not help you till i know how much you want to spend for the build any tall deck will not be cheap . i can get in to the 500 cid with a stock 454 block that all part s will fit on like intake headers your alternator brackets and distributors there is many ways to go and i have done many builds so i know how to get round some of this stuff but i would never build a smaller engine if the price is the same for a bigger one

Is $2700 really the core price of that first 427? I guess they are getting pretty rare... You can always find a 454 standard block and a 3.76 stroke crank and make a 427. It would come out cheaper than getting one of those reman blocks especially with the core charge.

[/QUOTE]
Yeah...I guess they are getting rare. I assume all of the others are tall decks.

I'm still pouring through sites on the other.

I think I need a Gen IV 454 block or newer, then a 3.766 crank to match the block I choose, correct length rods?, and 4.310 pistons for 439 cu in. I found a place that made the .125 pistons for 452 cu in, but I'm guessing that I'd running into trouble with cylinder wall thickness. I agree with Pat....I want to get as much cubes as I can out of the stroke I'm wanting. I'm definitley sticking with the 3.766. I dont mind a rev happy set up. Dont mind the high idle...and all that goes with it.

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

well i have blocks that will go to 4.625 in short 9.800 and tall 10.200 but why would you bore a stock block out to 4.375 ? no not a good ideal the new block are not as good as the old mark 4 blocks and like i said you can use a 454 block and a 3.376 crank but at the end of the day cid rules less rpm less wear on the upper end valve train and more TQ 427 is not very popular of a build i know this is what you want but the 427 block go for big money so are the 454 are getting hard to find any that have not been run thru the mill and all beat to hell . for all the added work for a 427 tall deck it is just not worth the money i feel less you build the cid up to a 525 or so . for the added money to build your short deck 427 you could go out and build a cast steel crank hpyer piston 496 i know you do not want one ? but the 427 will not be that good bang for the buck and if you find a 454 you can build a 468 they can run very good to .i have no clue were you want to be at on money? so i can not help you till i know how much you want to spend for the build any tall deck will not be cheap . i can get in to the 500 cid with a stock 454 block that all part s will fit on like intake headers your alternator brackets and distributors there is many ways to go and i have done many builds so i know how to get round some of this stuff but i would never build a smaller engine if the price is the same for a bigger one

I looked up the set up Maxxmuscle was talking about....PAW 439 shortblock for $2150. Price seems right but I am a little concerned about engine speed now. Mass confusion. LOL's. I agree that theres no replacement for dispacement. I was just hoping to get as much as I could for a shorter stroke. I like the rev happy motors. LOL's. Really...thanks Pat. Youve sold me. I'll research the 454 set ups more. I was hoping to do some ordering soon but I'll keep looking. Bet you couldnt tell that I'm fickle. LOL's. Much appreciated!

Yeah...I guess they are getting rare. I assume all of the others are tall decks.

I'm still pouring through sites on the other.

I think I need a Gen IV 454 block or newer, then a 3.766 crank to match the block I choose, correct length rods?, and 4.310 pistons for 439 cu in. I found a place that made the .125 pistons for 452 cu in, but I'm guessing that I'd running into trouble with cylinder wall thickness. I agree with Pat....I want to get as much cubes as I can out of the stroke I'm wanting. I'm definitley sticking with the 3.766. I dont mind a rev happy set up. Dont mind the high idle...and all that goes with it.[/QUOTE]you would need a tall deck mark 5 crank for the one pice seal and the new454 5/6 block they are junk and if your bore one out this far the walls will move all over so you have to short fill the bock .the older blocks even the two bolts are a much better block and you will need heads to fit the new block old mark 4 heads will not fit on the mark 5/6 block very good less you like coolant in your oil you idle will not be that hi up ??? i did a 468 that rap like a chain saw you are going about this the wrong way i think... i have built hi rev big blocks to go up to 8000+ YOU NEED VERY GOOD PARTS good luck

you would need a tall deck mark 5 crank for the one pice seal and the new454 5/6 block they are junk and if your bore one out this far the walls will move all over so you have to short fill the bock .the older blocks even the two bolts are a much better block and you will need heads to fit the new block old mark 4 heads will not fit on the mark 5/6 block very good less you like coolant in your oil you idle will not be that hi up ??? i did a 468 that rap like a chain saw you are going about this the wrong way i think... i have built hi rev big blocks to go up to 8000+ YOU NEED VERY GOOD PARTS good luck

Pat, did you see the set up right above your last post? PAW....GEN IV block...4 bolt...439 short block for $2150? What do you think? Stay with the Gen IV 454 I'm guessing. I'm trying to understand Pat. I really dont mean to aggrevate anyone. Thanks for trying to pound some sense into me. I'll stay away from the newer stuff. I kind of knew that but I wanted to be sure I could trust something I heard years ago.

Donny I don't think a built 700R4 will hold up to a built 427, let alone anything that Pat might conjure up.

If you like the auto overdrive the sweetest thing going IMO is a built TH400 with a gear vendor's overdrive. If I was a little less poor I would have one for mine ............

Regards, Kitz

Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Pat, did you see the set up right above your last post? PAW....GEN IV block...4 bolt...439 short block for $2150? What do you think? Stay with the Gen IV 454 I'm guessing. I'm trying to understand Pat. I really dont mean to aggrevate anyone. Thanks for trying to pound some sense into me. I'll stay away from the newer stuff. I kind of knew that but I wanted to be sure I could trust something I heard years ago.

i cant not say any thing about PAW work or there price and the mark 5/6 block are ok but if i was going from a round up build i would try to find the older block .i have no way to know how much power your trying to get the new block to take

stovebolter you gonna go fenderless now? witha BBC you might have some header clearance issues even with your stock frame .. i only ask because of the issues i have to work out with my own 37 ..

Originally Posted by flh4speed

stovebolter you gonna go fenderless now? witha BBC you might have some header clearance issues even with your stock frame .. i only ask because of the issues i have to work out with my own 37 ..

no big deal if a truck just put the damn thing in the box with a 8-71 on the top of the intake

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i cant not say any thing about PAW work or there price and the mark 5/6 block are ok but if i was going from a round up build i would try to find the older block .i have no way to know how much power your trying to get the new block to take

I'm playing with the comp cam software....with the AFR 335 CNC heads and flow rates/ 430 cubic inches (it wont let you change to the 439)/ a high flow dual plane/ carb flowing 750 cfm/ large tube headers/ etc....I found a cam set up that produced 661 hp at 6000 rpms. So I'm thinking....man...I need to tone this down for my application. So I drop back to a standard dual plane intake and a hydralic roller and some more standard heads....I'm coming up with a cam set up that gets 514 Hp at 6200 Rpms.

Really, I'm shooting for around 500 hp Pat.