Thread: Pulling the TBI...then what?

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Originally Posted by CHEVYBOY

Gen V blocks are the only blocks that dont have the fuel pump boss cast in the block...Gen IV and Gen VI have a boss for the mechanical pumps..

How many bolt hold on your timing cover? Gen VI block have a composite cover with six bolts as opposed to 10 or the Gen IV

Actually some Gen V and Gen VI have fuel pump bosses and some do not. My ZZ502/502 is Gen VI and does not.

In general I don't understand the knock on electric pumps. You'll be hard pressed to buy a car today that does not use an electric fuel pump. The basic pump and motor designs have been around for 75 years or so; a well made unti is extremely reliable. Electric pumps are also much more versatile, allowing you to readily prime the carb if you run out of gas for insance, as well as providing a useful theft deterrent as previously noted.

I would only go electric personally. My first hot rod in 1976 was a '73 Monte Carlo and I ran a mallory pump with no return and no regulator. Very simple and easy and worked like a champ.

Kitz

Originally Posted by CHEVYBOY

How many bolt hold on your timing cover? Gen VI block have a composite cover with six bolts as opposed to 10 on the Gen IV

My baby has 10 bolts holding down the timing cover. So I guess I'm a proud papa of a Gen IV..meaning I won't have to put one of them newfangled oil pans on it to fit it into my Elky's engine bay. Whew!

Kurt

Originally Posted by kitz

I would only go electric personally.

When this beast eventually does get plopped down into it's final home between my Elky's frame horns, I may end up going electric on both the water and fuel pump...depending on my checking account balance at the time.

But since all this fuss started as a "I-just-got-the-motor-and-want-to-fire-it-up-for-giggles-on-my-engine-test-run-stand" exercise, I'm feeling the pain of the cost of buying a zapped fuel pumper and busy work of hooking up yet another set of wires to my engine test run stand.

Verses...

picking up a $25 O'Reilly fuel pump and pushrod, lubing them up and running some rubber hose to feed the beast some dino juice.

That is..if my cam actually has a lobe to crank the mech fuel pump up and down...still need to determine that.

In the meantime, I may just hunt around for an electric pump to mount on my engine test run stand. Who knows what some intensive pricelining and ebaying may reveal.

Originally Posted by DennyW

Did you check the cam for the fuel pump lobe yet ?

Other than sticking a wooden spoon handle into the pushrod hole and giving the crank a few turns to see if the spoon bobs up and down, I'm out of ideas on how to check for the existence of the appropriate lobe from the outside.

Anyone have one of those colonoscopy cameras mounted on the end of a long, flexible probe, complete with micro led light? Would come in handy about now.

But please clean it off before sending it please. I'd like to keep the innerds of my big block sorta sanitary...thanks.

Kurt

Originally Posted by kayak

My baby has 10 bolts holding down the timing cover. So I guess I'm a proud papa of a Gen IV..meaning I won't have to put one of them newfangled oil pans on it to fit it into my Elky's engine bay. Whew!

Kurt

that truck oil pan will not work in your 72 frame i have seen some of the 89 blocks that just used a block off plate on the fuel pump the mark 4 block is abit better then the mark 5 and 6 blocks

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

that truck oil pan will not work in your 72 frame...

See, I know I had read somewhere that the Gen V and VI blocks needed a different oil pan to fit into A-bodies such as my Elky, but I hadn't thought about truck blocks differing from autos in the oil pan department. Guess Milodon stock is going to go up a tad more when I'm ready to start buying...

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

...i have seen some of the 89 blocks that just used a block off plate on the fuel pump

Exactly how mine came...which started the whole controversy about whether or not my cam would have a lobe to pump a mech. fuel pump or not...

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

...the mark 4 block is a bit better then the mark 5 and 6 blocks

Have to take your word on this since I'm new to the rat building game and the only BB bowtie I've ever worked on was a 396/402 block some years ago...and I had to sh*tcan it when the machine shop boys found hairline cracks in the lifter valley. Can you say, bummer?

Kurt

i do not have any photos of the pan you need but milodon sells a fine pan #30950 LOW PRO should do they are better then moroso ...i think.... they are tig welded and the moroso are mig welded you have to get all the weld spatter ( pop corn) out of the mosroso and are over lap so you have to blow them out very good or any of the spatter will get run thru the oil pump your pan truck has two hump s and hits on the cross member so the engine will not sit all the way down were it needs. it only takes one time to try to set one in a 65-72 GM A body to fine this out the hard way