Thread: slow 496

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Originally Posted by 6801

comp xr286r 653-660 lift 248-254 @50 110lsa solid roller

that would be as big as i would go would have to run the numbers but about the same cam i have in a guys 496 but about 11to1 cr 629/629 246/254 lsa is 108 would be nice for 1/2 point more cr ok i did see the cam now posted by skid 72 but i still like my cam numbers better and was a 4-7 swap cam just kidding well maybe not

I picked a comp cuz it was easier to find what I was looking for... choose your favorite cam grinder... I know Isky and Lunati should have one close. Picked 110 lsa and shorter duration to keep the stall down and help with the lower compression. Could pump up the compression a bit with small chamber edelbrock heads and that will open up more cam options. You can try to stick with your oval heads but then you'll need oval intake.... probably lose about 3-4 tenths from the rect port heads....

cams with smaller lsa will make the stall work better if you have the cr to suport it far is the intake and heads try a re cam before you scrap every thing i do not feel the intake is going to hurt you that bad but a team G would work good or a vic you can find both used on ebay

Originally Posted by 6801

thanks for your advice i was thinking about that exact cam. i know the heads are small but do you think i would bennifit from 456gear,carb,cam and converter upgrade and only buy heads if i dont hit 10s. i really like the numbers on that cam. the rear end is 12 bolt 31 spline axels c clip elim. im not a tranny guy but im confortable with th350 put a few together. im shooting for mid 10s

I would stick with your 4.10 gear unless you plan to go with a much bigger tire... even with the 4.10 you should be running 28" tire... converter carb cam and intake will make huge difference... you need single plane intake and intake needs to match the heads... if you buy new heads later, you get another intake.... I think you can do high 10's with those heads but probably 4 tenths faster with rect ports. If you're going to do it piecemeal, start with the carb, then the intake, then the cam and converter, then the heads (and intake again )

-Chris

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

cams with smaller lsa will make the stall work better if you have the cr to suport it

doesn't tighter lsa make the power curves more "peaky" and I thought also moves tq peak higher meaning higher stall needed? Please correct me if I'm wrong... I'm always trying to learn

-Chris

Originally Posted by skids72

doesn't tighter lsa make the power curves more "peaky" and I thought also moves tq peak higher meaning higher stall needed? Please correct me if I'm wrong... I'm always trying to learn

-Chris

well your drag racing so you want strong mild and will hit harder .wilder lsa will not be as peaky but tq can be broad the stall will not work as good and thats from art carr lips to my ears if i looking for strong mild i pull in the lsa . but there abit more to it and every build can be dif but then i could be all wrong

^^^ thanks, pat

3400 pounds!!! Lose 100 pounds, lose 1/10 off your ET....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

3400 pounds!!! Lose 100 pounds, lose 1/10 off your ET....

the next thing you will say is paint the engine ford blue

IF your going to stay with TH-350 in A 3400lb car and go into the 10's,First chance you get put A good after market Intermediate Sprag/Drum in it It's going to brake sooner or later trust me.As for A coverter behind BB Chevy,(COAN Converter)Do you have A line lock/Roll-control ?

i have a line lock. ive been saving so these are all really good sugestions. i just sent afr a combo list to see what heads they rec was reading the 502 article on their web site.

well i did see the afr add but it is funny that they did not use a canfield head or a BMF 310 i would love to see them numbers i see they did use a 112 lsa cam with about what i said you may have to use with your low cr and about what i was thinking .it still would be nice to bump up the cr and move to a lsa 108 as for the cc on the intake runner with the smaller cam and low cr you would be better off with the smaller ports under 320 cc runner less you go big on every thing then bigger port size no more then 330 max

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

the next thing you will say is paint the engine ford blue

Well, laugh if you want, but it's still a cheap way to go faster.... Nothing but basic physics, lighter is faster....and losing 100 pounds will be a 1/10 second reduction in ET.....

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Well, laugh if you want, but it's still a cheap way to go faster.... Nothing but basic physics, lighter is faster....and losing 100 pounds will be a 1/10 second reduction in ET.....

no i did not laugh 3400 is not bad for A 68 gm a body with a all iron bbc he could get more off ? hard to say what he as or has not done i do know what it takes to get a 66 A body 3600+down to 3400 and to 2900 $$$$$$$$$$$$ but sometimes that cost more money then building more power or NOs shot if you are in to that stuff

Well, just another consideration. There's a lot of other ways to improve performance on the drag strip besides just spending money on the engine...... If a 3400 pound car runs 11.40's at 3400 pounds, a weight reduction to 3,000 pounds would yeild an 11.00..... Many easy and cheap ways to lighten up a car.... Just curious how much of the extraneous stock stuff is still hanging on the car doing nothing other then adding a lot of dead weight..... My example would be the Comet we drag race.... 2570 pounds with the driver in the car, goes 9.90's with a solid lifter cam and out of the box aluminum heads.... Reliability on the engine is superb, just finished the 4th season on the engine, probably replace the valve springs, rings, and bearings and go racing in the spring. A lighter car not only requires less horsepower and torque to go faster, but it's easier on the engine and the rest of the drivetrain, too.....