Thread: slow 496

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well the A body is a full frame steel car mine was 3650 i think from there with a iron bbc street driver my tub out 66 with glass hood and gutted and some hole saw work with a all iron block with a full steel floor pan no inners and race seats and a alum rad with no front core swap out for small tubing put the car to i think 3200 or so that was 20years ago then the car had the floor cut out all alum and a alum head 572 with engine set back with no steel fire wall and not much cowl with every thing cut out door inners fenders and polycarbonate side glass with wilwood brakes and may other thing put the car to 2900 or so with me in it at that time i was about 200 maybe i could of got it down more but it was about as much as you could with a steel rework gm frame and all steel body but a glass hood

i took out heater wipers inner fenders radio all interior but 2 seats no power stering no exhaust. put on glass hood skinny front tires but added a 12 point cage. i cant see spending 400$ plus shipping for bumpers. the floors are to nice to tub i even scrubed 10lbs of rubber of of it. i preety much had a nice street strip car got the bug and now want to go fast. its a horrible sickness but thats why most of us do it. again you guys are being very helpfull. proably the best site ive been on

if your board you can youtube chevellevideo6

Originally Posted by 6801

i took out heater wipers inner fenders radio all interior but 2 seats no power stering no exhaust. put on glass hood skinny front tires but added a 12 point cage. i cant see spending 400$ plus shipping for bumpers. the floors are to nice to tub i even scrubed 10lbs of rubber of of it. i preety much had a nice street strip car got the bug and now want to go fast. its a horrible sickness but thats why most of us do it. again you guys are being very helpfull. proably the best site ive been on

hell i been there you should of seen the all steel 66 gto i cut up to get it down to 2700 never had much on it at 3200 cops love the car

Might want to keep an eye out on racing junk.com for some fiberglass body parts....Seem to notice a lot of parts on there with sellers in the Ohio area....

If your taking it off the street, you'd be amazed how much weight can be saved by replacing all the glass with Lexan and removing all the window regulators and handles.....

if it going to see any street time i would think alot about lexan at the time i did my car i all ways had the back side 1/4 glass pined up and did go lexan but never did the front or back glass i made some stuff and rework alot of part s to get them lite here a shot of the old goat

Originally Posted by 6801

if your board you can youtube chevellevideo6

That Car Looks Like It Runs Ok . Could Leave a Bit Harder . Maybe Better Stall Speed ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ejs-lKbNMCk

ok for right know i have 8-12 wks till spring warm up i picked up a 830 dp from a buddy.im gonna go with the tci steet fighter stall 3400-3600. i love the numbers on that cam so im gonna do that also. what else do i need to convert over springs,pushrods,cam button,distrib gear? will my old retainers and locks work can i change the springs on the car with that much spring pressure (filling cylinders with air bring the piston up so the valve wont drop)

Originally Posted by 6801

ok for right know i have 8-12 wks till spring warm up i picked up a 830 dp from a buddy.im gonna go with the tci steet fighter stall 3400-3600. i love the numbers on that cam so im gonna do that also. what else do i need to convert over springs,pushrods,cam button,distrib gear? will my old retainers and locks work can i change the springs on the car with that much spring pressure (filling cylinders with air bring the piston up so the valve wont drop)

you will need a cam button for the cam set end play you could swap out the springs i do not know what your set up on your old springs so you may need new reatiners on the dist gear you may need a bronze grear ? hard to say what cam core do you have steel or two part core steel and iron gear or all iron the new cam what is it solid roller ?? TCI is far from the best converter i had 4 of them never ever again

xr286r comp solid roller all i know about my springs are 1.550 dual 600 max lift hyd the valve have 7deg locks with chromemoly retainers. the more i read about my heads i get depressed. proably better to get the comp kit. what converter have you had good luck with 3000-3500 range. i run a hollow arp fuelpump pump rod would that have to be bronzed tipped to, whats the diffrence between a cam botton and the won that bolts on to the front of the block behind the timming chain. sorry about all the questions everyone i know are into the import racing.

Originally Posted by 6801

xr286r comp solid roller all i know about my springs are 1.550 dual 600 max lift hyd the valve have 7deg locks with chromemoly retainers. the more i read about my heads i get depressed. proably better to get the comp kit. what converter have you had good luck with 3000-3500 range. i run a hollow arp fuelpump pump rod would that have to be bronzed tipped to, whats the diffrence between a cam botton and the won that bolts on to the front of the block behind the timming chain. sorry about all the questions everyone i know are into the import racing.

your springs will not work you could buy the comp kit if you buy there cam i like isky springs and use them for alot of builds and PSI springs what i mean is your spring for your cam now are 1880 or so and alot of time you need a 1.900 or 2.100 for the monster cams has alot to do with lift and springs there is other things that you need to check i would pull the heads let someone set the springs up for you yes you need a thust button on the front of the cam and it will need to end play set up the rollers are good but the solid buttons work very good to and i like them if you big i cut them down to ajust end play adding a nother timming gasket works to and you can tap the timing cover in or out if made out of tin and not a cast cover you need a bronze tip push rod the comp cam should be a two part cam steel core and iron back so your dist gear should work .you can call me if you want i can tell you every thing you need to know on this

ok new directiondoug herbert has good deal on cams what would be better
2500-6500rpm 285-285 242-242 .642-642 lift or
2700-6700rpm 278-286 242-246 .642-.653 lift lash.16 on both
both are solid roller cam and call for 3,000 converter. the cams are priced at 199$ and they sell cam ac kit with lifters,springs,locks,retainers,pushrods cam lock and button for 599$ whats the diff between horizontal and vertival lifters. are horizontal ok to use.

both have 110 lsa, how much cam end play should i have .005? i picked up a good set of crane lifters 13552-16 solid roller from racing junk . they probally be good enough till i get things going and upgrade. check out the cam specs on page 3 anyone run doug herbert stuff, i have a cast timming cover just grind it down and double gasket.

got to the track with the 850 dp and new cam best time 11.19 at 123. and others were 11.22 and 11.26 with a 1.7 60foot time. i got one 1.6 sixty but the car bogeed in 3rd and went 11.7 at 100mph.

how can i get my 60 foot down. thats proably the 2 tenths i need to hit my 10 sec goal would a team g intake help me. will a eletric fuel pump help over mech. im taking all the interior back out and even gonna scrape ten pounds of rubber of the car. will a eletric water pump be a gain. im trying to get into the 10 and then juice the crap out of it until i see 9.99.