Thread: Is a 454 Vortec performance or just a name?

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I recently purchased a 1997 Chevy Suburban K2500 4X4 with a J code 454 Vortec. I got it for a good price. Since then I have been told and read on the net that this engine actually lacks HP and torque. Not very good for pulling a camper if it’s hilly. Is there any truth to this? I have always thought of a 454 as a powerhouse but this is the first I have ever had. It’s going to be my daily driver for a year or two THEN I want to start having fun with it. Would like to set it all up for doing sled pulls, just for fun!

well it is 454 but there is some things that can be done to it cam headers some head work throw a cast steel crank in it and bore it to 030 will get you a 489 or 060 to 496 then you will have some thing that will have some grunt then you can pull your trailer up hill with no wheels on it

So let me also ask this… If I were to pull this engine and have it bored, better cam, lifters and such, what would this do to the electronics? These newer cars have so much electronics to make it run, would it adjust to the new mods or would a bunch of it also have to be replaced taking all the fun out of it?

no you buy a cam that works with the electronics they make plug in box that can ride a long or a chip not sure what you need on the chevy but all this stuff is out there

As I recall in '97 the Vortec bumped the former 260 hp OEM 454 up to a real easy 320 hp which is much more better for that engine .................

Kitz

There is a place here in Ohio called Budget Engine Rebuilders.

"Our Remanufacturing Process Begins With:
Complete disassembly of engine block and cylinder head including all plugs
Thermal cleaning and hi-pressure jet wash
Casting inspection for damage or flaws (magnaflux and pressure testing)
Precision machining on engine block, crankshaft, connecting rods and cylinder heads include:
Engine block boring, honing, and if necessary line hone and block decking
Crankshaft inspection, journal welding, straightening, journal grinding and micro polishing
Cylinder heads reconditioned with new bronze guide liners, valve springs, valve stem seals, resurface of valves, seats and head gasket surface area"


Our New Parts Include:
Pistons
Rings
Camshaft (new are flat tappet cam only, roller cams are polished and reused)
Lifters (new are flat tappet lifters only, roller lifters are professionaly remanufactured)
Cam Bearings
Timing Chain & Gears
Connecting Rod and Main Bearings
Engine Gasket Kit
Oil Pump
Freeze Plugs and Oil Galley Plugs
Water Pump (on some engines if required)


I asked to have it boared out and a bigger cam. The price they gave me is $2,000.00 and thats for one they have or doing the one I have.

Their name has me worried. BUDGET

This one smells real bad - I'd not recommend a "polished and reused" cam and I would never re-used lifters on a rebuild I don't care who "professionally re-manufacturers" them. They're relatively inexpensive in the whole scheme of things and can cause a lot of grief if they fail..

If you're really serious - have Pat build you a motor that will perform like it's supposed to and you'll know it has been done correctly. Not to mention he's like the best of the best and been doing it since Moses floated the Nile.

Just my two cents,
Glenn

I agree with you Glenn. I’m putting new lifters in it next week and they are $14.00 each. Why would they not use new parts? Guess that’s why the are “BUDGET”. They probably re-use all the parts. LOL I am looking at a couple years out before doing anything. I’m going to use it as my daily driver and get some bills paid off. That way I can PLAY! And this is at the top of my list! Prices may change by then. But I agree and will avoid that place all together. And Michigan is not that far from me! :O)