Thread: quick re-ring
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07-19-2010 08:31 AM #16
Pat my springs are set up completely stock, I will measure today and see what I have.
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07-19-2010 05:33 PM #17
well I spent the day in my shop and discovered a few more things. First the bore has very little ridge but the rings have .165" end gap on the top ring ( and they were so sharp I sliced my thumb) Next I lucked out and found the cam card and here is what I have, .502/527 lift with 214/224 duration@.050 and a 107 lsa. My spring apear to be 1.52" wide with a 1.85" installed height, these numbers may be a little off cause all I had at home was a digital caliper. So I am guessing these are bone stock springs cause the heads are some old 219's that got pulled off a grain truck and rebuilt. so based on this info, does anyone have a spring recomendation that I can use without changing retainers and all that.
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07-19-2010 06:03 PM #18
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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07-19-2010 06:19 PM #19
ya here is a pic of that end
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07-19-2010 06:20 PM #20
Pat, help me understand why the Comp 911 wouldn't work. It would install at 1.850" @ 140 lbs and the over-the-nose pressure would be 336 lbs @1.323".
I'll admit to not having built a BBC for a number or years where you do it every day, but I need to know so I don't make a mistake if I get the inclination to put one together. (been eyeballin' the classic GMC Motorhome,'73-'78) and it definitely needs a good fat block.PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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07-19-2010 06:29 PM #21
just checked cp website and the 454-502 HO spring is the one I think Pat is talking about, if so I will order some up tomorrow. they are very reasonably priced too, thanks for the info Pat.
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07-19-2010 07:54 PM #22
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07-19-2010 08:11 PM #23
yeah the retainers only add 30 bones to the price so I will definately order the kit. One final question, should I run my camshaft straight up or retard it. I am currently making 18" of vac and I only need 15. I had it advanced 4 degrees but I was thinking of going back to 0 to gain a few more revs.
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07-19-2010 08:18 PM #24
well you could run them at 140 lbs but that more then i would like to see on a small cam flat cam . thats about what i put on hyd rollers and not worry about wipping out a cam that cam only needs about 85 and 256 any thing over 6000 would be 128 and 335 . if it was a roller i say go for it just not a big fan on hi lbs on a flat hyd cam . he can do what ever he wantsIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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07-19-2010 08:37 PM #25
here is another pic of my work in progress, I decided to do it in frame to save time but I kinda wish now I had just pulled it out
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07-19-2010 09:31 PM #26
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07-20-2010 05:23 PM #27
well I ordered the spring kit today should be here later this week, should I run that cam straight up or advanced. just about everything I read says not to retard cams and straight up is prefered.
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07-25-2010 08:56 PM #28
here is the new ring and an old one beside it, this should help with compression
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07-25-2010 10:24 PM #29
Push that ting down into the cylinder at about where BDC would be and remeasure, want to make sure you don't have to much taper and seize her up.
Keith
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08-06-2010 09:05 PM #30
It lives
I just got her fired up and man what a difference. It actually sounds like it has a cam now. Being that this is a relatively stock iron headed bbc, how much timing should I run. I was running a lot of advance before but this motor was also a hurting wreck. My ignition is an hei with a msd module and coil and the vac advance locked out. this truck has 2 throttle positions, Idle and floored, so based on this what would be a safe timing ( bear in mind this thing has zoomies and there is no way I can hear pinging.)
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel