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03-03-2011 04:50 PM #16
Pat, would they do that because of the gear drive? It has a milodon setup.
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03-03-2011 05:40 PM #17
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03-05-2011 05:55 PM #18
Finally got around to pulling the pistons and crank. All the rod and main bearings look fine but the piston skirts are looking beat up. Looks like a lot of the material from the lifter did embed itself in the piston skirts. The crank is a 4.25 crower piece and is 010.
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03-05-2011 07:23 PM #19
there is some things about this engine when built you need to look at abit better lifter tracking is one thing .them pistons are hurt there not much that can be done less you clean all the steel out of the skrits and there is abit of it thats all them small black specks and knurl them .but thats hard to say not having them in my hands so if you fine someone that will or can knurl them or knows how to fit them there junk .every thing i posted about the bores still stands .prep of bores and rings must be done .Last edited by pat mccarthy; 03-05-2011 at 07:25 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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03-05-2011 07:40 PM #20
Pat, I bought this engine used so now that I have it apart it is going to be rebuilt with all good parts and whatever needs to be done as far as machine work goes. I am going to get new pistons now because all of them have this damage (No need to cheap out now at this stage) just need to wait and see what the machine shop says about the cylinder walls to see about bore size. Thanks for your help and input on this.
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04-09-2011 10:54 AM #21
Finally getting things done on this rebuild. Block had to be taken out another .020 because of damage obviously so I went and saw Bill Miller (his shop is local) and am having some custom pistons made. He is not the way to go if you are doing a budget build, had a little sticker shock, but I am getting his wrist pins too. Erson is also local to me also and they helped me out with all new valve train components and were really great to work with. So hopefully motor will be back together at the end of the month.
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04-09-2011 08:00 PM #22
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04-10-2011 09:18 AM #23
Pat, from what I have read online (I know not always good/correct info) and my own research the heads I have would not work with normal open chamber pistons. I could be wrong, but that was the conclusion I came to and that is why I am having BME do the pistons. He just scanned my old Ross pistons and is making the new ones to the new bore size 4.580. I could not find many shelf pistons in that bore size, summit has some JE in that size and the price of those compared to the BME would of been pretty close. In fact we are going to use the JE rings because it was hard to find rings for the bore size. I also went with BME because it is nice to do business face to face and like to support local businesses when possible.
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04-10-2011 03:22 PM #24
well i just did a 4.580 bore bow tie block. the guy had the pistons so i bored and hone his block and rings are $$ and from what he told me that JE is the only one that sells the ring s ? hard to say i never look in to it for him but told me top rings are $20. each.i told him to look in to a total seal rings as in the past they have had off size bore rings . any ways i would of used a 4.600 bore piston i do not know what chamber you have but i sure something could of been made to work less you have a odd size rod and strokeLast edited by pat mccarthy; 04-11-2011 at 07:39 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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06-05-2011 10:21 AM #25
OK, well I am back. Got the short block together and now I have some piston to valve clearance issues. The new pistons were made from the old pistons, Bill Miller I guess just copied the dome and valve cut outs. So we clayed the heads with the old head gasket (.051) and the cam straight up I only have .042 on the intake and have .135 on the exhaust and a quench of .065. We did retard the cam 5.5 degrees to just check the piston to valve clearance and of course we did gain on the intake around .020 but that does not give me .080 which I have read is the minimum you want for the intake valve to piston clearance. Also, since this is a custom ground cam I want to install it straight up and not mess with the cam timing.
So the plans are to cut the intake relief another .080 and also go with a .031 head gasket to get a .045 quench which would give me some extra space for the intake and maintain a minimum .100 on the exhaust and also give more compression. I heard that .035 is the minimum for the quench?
Am I going down the right road with this or is there something else I can do or should do?
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06-27-2011 11:28 AM #26
Finally got the motor back together and it runs awesome. It is much more responsive with the new cam. I had BME cut the intake reliefs a bit for my clearance problem, they ended up taking out another .050. Here are a couple of pics and a video.
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